Slowr w/o Blowr

iTrader: (1)

Hey J-Rod, thanks for the sweet text message this morning. I feel so loved today!

tunedports10

iTrader: (1)

LOL, No problem. I guess it didn't stop it from sending when I hit the cancel button after I noticed I was sending it to you. Oh well it makes a good story.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

Hey, at least I purchased goods from you duing the appliance sell blowout!

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

My research when I was putting my motor together showed me a few things;

Rods: Callies are the best bang for the buck. Eagle rods seem to be fine, but require more machine work and aren't as stout (~700 RWHP vs. ~900 RWHP ratings). K1 Tech seem good also, but are too new to be 100% sure on. Scat and others are similar to Eagle, though not as strong. After that, billet stuff from Oliver and others is SUPER strong, but overkill and expensive for a street car.

Pistons: 2618 Diamond and Wiseco are the top dogs in their price range. Mahle are well liked but have some issues. JE and CP are great, but can be pricey. Probe seem decent but budget oriented, just below Mahle perhaps. Guys are making 1500+ HP and running deep 9s/8s on 2618 Diamond and Wisecos, so. Coating is nice if it's priced well, but not 100% necessary. FWIW, I watched a friend break a valve and it beat a hole in his Diamond piston, but the piston never broke. That sold me for life on spending money on a good piston.

Cranks: For stock stroke, GM is a-ok at/below 1000 RWHP, beyond that, Eagle, then Calllies, then super high $$. Stroker, Eagle is nice at the sub 1200 RWHP range, Callies would be the next up, and again, beyond that is big, big $$$.

FWIW, I went with coated 2618 Wiseco pistons, Callies Compstar rods and a cleaned up stock crank for my engine. I liked the aluminum block to pull weight off the nose, but iron is cheaper AND stronger.

If I was building an all-new N/A or nitrous stroker, I'd probably go with an iron ~416 with wiseco or diamond pistons, compstar rods and an eagle or callies crank. ARP studs everywhere, and a JPH cam. I'd rather spend money on good pistons and rods, and not have to worry about them later, there is a reason good parts cost more. My .02 anyway.

GMMillwright

iTrader: (4)

It's down to LME and the "dyno" motor in NY. Waiting on NY's bottom dollar. Most likely to go LME and be done with it. I'll sell my rotating assembly and (maybe) cam/timing gear stuff once the new one is on the way.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

What went wrong with your old setup Scott (aside from the gasket)?

GMMillwright

iTrader: (4)

Nate did some testing on the fuel pumps and discovered that the second pump doesn't turn on. Why is doesn't is still a mystery. He's waiting on me to get the new shortblock before he starts tearing into it, I think.

I will say that I shouldn't have left the jumper on the fuel pressure safety switch. Not too smart on my part. We need to get that working before anything else gets done to the car. Mike M. (preferred auto) has done some wiring work on the car. He's back from vacation, so hopefully he and Nate can get it figured out.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

Sounds like you're getting all the half-assed stuff sorted out. Hopefully the new setup will be as sound as it is quick.

Have you considering picking up a set of Denso pumps instead of the oh-so-reliable Walbro units?

GMMillwright

iTrader: (4)

I'll do whatever needs done (within a budget) to make it reliable. These fuel issues are getting old. And expensive.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

I don't know why you have had so many fuel related issues with your pumps Scott. You can just do a large single pump and be done with it (but at the cost of spending some decent $), or you can just do a dual pump like I did (and what I thought you did as well).

My setup was very basic, and reliable, and only cost me about $400 for everything. Just two in tank Walbro 255lph pumps wired with a HOBBS switch to kick in the second pump at 4#'s of boost. (There are tons of guys on the FI section running this setup holding past 1,000 RWHP) The only issues I had were with the rubber lines falling apart (I later replaced them with steel braded lines).

I would reccomend getting a fuel pressure gauge to moniter everything. It saved my motor when the rubber lines gave out, and my primary fuel pump popped off in the tank. I could instantly see it on the gauge and shut it down (happened 5-6 times before I fixed it with the new lines).

Anyways, best of luck with everything. I'm sure whatever you end up with it will be wicked!

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

The Walbro is a great pump, but there are so many issues with knock-offs getting into the main retail channel that it makes it hard to trust them. Personally, I'd go with some Denso units, you can have a twin Denso setup for ~350 dollars, and that's a lot less than it costs to replace a 4500 dollar shortblock.

I know Joe, Nate and the guys like the Walbro, but there has to be some point where the problems outweigh the price, and it's not like the Denso pumps flow less; they're ~20% more flow than a Walbro, so you get more fuel, and less worry. Last I heard Snapps had been through 4 Walbro pumps. Fool me once, shame on you...

edit: Here ya go:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/550HP...=p4506.c0.m245

GMMillwright

iTrader: (4)

My current setup has 2 Walbros with the second one activating at WOT off a microswitch. Braided lines, too. I suspect the problem is not with the pump, as it only runs for a few seconds at a time. I think it's fuse/wiring related.

SDB

iTrader: (7)

get a brand new hobbs switch for sure...I had trouble with them not holding their setting and shutting off or not allowing the nitrous to work. I dont know if there is an electronic unit that would take the place the mechanical hobbs switch easily. Just hate the idea of all the extra bullshit in the way...

Have you thought of a fuel system? Gong to do twin pumps again?

no cheap way to to do it that will work correctly . Have heard nothing but great things about LME on LS1tech and corvetteforum.

The Beast

iTrader: (16)

I said F the Walbro's and bought twin Denso's, I'd HIGHLY suggest doing the same. 290LPH for right around $150 a pump

JPH

iTrader: (2)

Actually Blake, I hate the Walbro and Dual Pump BS. Put 1 BIG external pump like Magnafuel, SX, Weldon, etc.. on and be done with it. I have a bucket full of walbro 255lph pumps at work that are ALL junk!

The Beast

iTrader: (16)

Thats why I'm selling my entire set up and buying an electric car. Then I won't have to worry about fuel pumps

2000NHRAFormula

Has anyone heard of a bell houseing to match a T56 to a BBC and do you think that the T56 will hold up to the torque....This is just an idea for a project 89 Camaro

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

I stand corrected.

I'm with you on that 100%. Single point of failure, no "secondary system" to worry about, etc.

That said, a properly done dual pump system can be a good functioning setup if done right; I don't expect we'll see any trouble with Nick's fuel system when I'm done with it.

blackz6sp

iTrader: (11)

Maybe a bucket full of knock off walbro's(BBk, Holley, Graniteli) all junk.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

I agree that lately its too much of a gamble getting a Walbro. Just get the Racetronix, or Denso.

If you are confident that you have good working pumps, I'd just re-wire everything and replace the HOBBS switch.