Another Hall's deal!!!
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i seen the video of it. Did you go with a different rearend? I don't think that 10 bolt can handle how your launching it. How much nitrous did you spray to get in the 9's? The rear in ours is about our last weak link. It will probably get full out tubbed next winter. I've been on s10v8.com and v8s10.org but not a member, just use them for information.
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My car doesn't have a dash bar and the cage is certified to 8.50.
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You can have swing out's, but they will hinder your chassis certification. you can still get a cert but it will be way slower.
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I may have figured out a new rear end for the RX7.
C4 Corvette Dana 36. If all works out I'll have one here modified for the RX7 rear half shafts. I'll have to shorten the "batwing" rear mounts a bit and build front/rear mounts into the chassis for it, but that's no biggie.
Who does everyone deal with for driveshafts? I'll have to have a custom one made as my current setup will be about 5-6" too short.
C4 Corvette Dana 36. If all works out I'll have one here modified for the RX7 rear half shafts. I'll have to shorten the "batwing" rear mounts a bit and build front/rear mounts into the chassis for it, but that's no biggie.
Who does everyone deal with for driveshafts? I'll have to have a custom one made as my current setup will be about 5-6" too short.
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If you don't have a dash bar, you'd need a bar across the top of the windshield then, no? If not, how are you tying your disparate cage sides together?
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Nobody does 'halo' bars anymore.
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I would recommend putting in the bar above the windshield running between the down bars. If your not going to put that bar or a dash bar in, the front down bars and not doing much. just extra weight. they will just fold in without any support in a crash. are you going to use chromoly?
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How do you get out of the car in a hurry if a 5 pt harness is holding you in place?
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And, not sure if you've noticed but Nick is a tall guy. The FD has no headroom. Your head will be 3-4" from the bar no matter what. You can move that much, even in a harness, in an accident. No biggie if you have a helmet and neck pad on. Not so good without them.
No argument, we all do, but I don't see the point of unnecessary risk, personally. The level that we're playing out now walks that fine line between street car and race car, for sure.
I suppose if every time you get in/out of the vehicle, you (and your passenger) fully cinch your 5 point (and you have to fully/properly cinch it or you're wasting your time), you're less likely to hit your head. I personally wouldn't drive a fully caged car without a harness, and I wouldn't drive in a harness without a fire suppression system with at least one nozzle in the driver's compartment, one nozzle on the fuel system and one-two nozzles in the bay.
Not my car, and I'm certainly not one to dissuade someone from safety equipment, but once you take the step to a cage, you don't have a street car. You can't jump in and take a ride; you have systems to check each/every time you get in it. The simple minute or two it takes to cinch up and set your harnesses would annoy me to no end.
Anyway, I'm done with this topic, just giving my .02. I won't be riding in this car without a helmet on.
No argument, we all do, but I don't see the point of unnecessary risk, personally. The level that we're playing out now walks that fine line between street car and race car, for sure.
I suppose if every time you get in/out of the vehicle, you (and your passenger) fully cinch your 5 point (and you have to fully/properly cinch it or you're wasting your time), you're less likely to hit your head. I personally wouldn't drive a fully caged car without a harness, and I wouldn't drive in a harness without a fire suppression system with at least one nozzle in the driver's compartment, one nozzle on the fuel system and one-two nozzles in the bay.
Not my car, and I'm certainly not one to dissuade someone from safety equipment, but once you take the step to a cage, you don't have a street car. You can't jump in and take a ride; you have systems to check each/every time you get in it. The simple minute or two it takes to cinch up and set your harnesses would annoy me to no end.
Anyway, I'm done with this topic, just giving my .02. I won't be riding in this car without a helmet on.
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I could be totally wrong on the 'halo' bar, but unless I totally missed something, the rule book doesn't state anywhere that one is needed (that don't mention it at all):
http://www.nhra.com/tech_specs/sport...C_Rulebook.pdf
Last edited by The Beast; 11-17-2009 at 06:00 PM. Reason: added link
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i seen the video of it. Did you go with a different rearend? I don't think that 10 bolt can handle how your launching it. How much nitrous did you spray to get in the 9's? The rear in ours is about our last weak link. It will probably get full out tubbed next winter. I've been on s10v8.com and v8s10.org but not a member, just use them for information.
It manages to run in the 9's on a 150 shot with a super conservative tune, pulling 8* of timing and activating the n2o 1 tenth after wot at 10% and ramping it to 100% in 1.90 seconds. This was at greasy muncie, It runs better at other tracks, and can handle alot more spray.
The rear is a home-built ford 9 now.
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It manages to run in the 9's on a 150 shot with a super conservative tune, pulling 8* of timing and activating the n2o 1 tenth after wot at 10% and ramping it to 100% in 1.90 seconds. This was at greasy muncie, It runs better at other tracks, and can handle alot more spray.
The rear is a home-built ford 9 now.
The rear is a home-built ford 9 now.
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Nick, I'm a bit confused on the cage that you want to build, I may be wrong but I thought that 8pt cages didn't have full bars that outlined the top of the door and a-pilliar. I thought they looked like this, (pic attached)(left cage)
Blake, I know that you were talking about the top drivers door bar or left portion of the halo bar as well as the front, It would still be almost impossible for me to hit my head on it , I positioned the seats low and the bottom seat portion is recessed down. I'm tall and my head is a good 4-5 inches away. I dont know how the rx7's cages are but padding would be a must on anything close to your brain bucket.
I put a 12pt cage in the dime because I wanted to, and out of necessity. I modified my firewall, and because I knew I wanted to run at least 9's. I run in NMCA events and they tech your car, if you run faster than your certified then your done, It would be a real bummer to have to pack it up everytime you went too fast.
I'm not trying to push anybody into one cage or the other, all I'm saying is I don't think they're all that bad on the street. It does suck having to strap in and do your checklist everytime you want to drive, but I guess that comes with the territory.
Blake, I know that you were talking about the top drivers door bar or left portion of the halo bar as well as the front, It would still be almost impossible for me to hit my head on it , I positioned the seats low and the bottom seat portion is recessed down. I'm tall and my head is a good 4-5 inches away. I dont know how the rx7's cages are but padding would be a must on anything close to your brain bucket.
I put a 12pt cage in the dime because I wanted to, and out of necessity. I modified my firewall, and because I knew I wanted to run at least 9's. I run in NMCA events and they tech your car, if you run faster than your certified then your done, It would be a real bummer to have to pack it up everytime you went too fast.
I'm not trying to push anybody into one cage or the other, all I'm saying is I don't think they're all that bad on the street. It does suck having to strap in and do your checklist everytime you want to drive, but I guess that comes with the territory.
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I wish that was an 8 point, but the NHRA diagram shows otherwise. Upon further discussion and colaborating, I'm going to try my luck with a 6 point (maybe an 8 point like Chris posted above) with dual swing outs. If I get booted from an actual nice track (read: anywhere but Muncie) I'll extend it to be an 8.50 legal cage.
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A "windshield" bar and a "dash" bar are not required in an 8 pt cage. I by no means want to go 8 point, but since it's mandatory for the speeds I'll be trapping, I want to do it with the fewest amount of bars possible. If anything I might tie into the to front down bars off of where the diagonal door bars meet the floor to strengthen it up there.
Don't need a dash bar, or a windshield bar, just the 2 front down bars (which are required to be wrapped in SFI approved foam padding).
Don't need a dash bar, or a windshield bar, just the 2 front down bars (which are required to be wrapped in SFI approved foam padding).
My head hits the curved part of the roof, right above the window, as is. So I would crack my head regardless. Having the bar that goes above the door/window is actually going to reduce the blow to my head if I were in a side collision. (Think Newton's second law, where distance is as dependent on momentum as momentum seems to be dependent on distance, where a certan distance will only net so much momentum. Less distance = less momentum = less head ache
.)
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I dn't think you were ever in the Civic, which had 4 pt harnesses. Buckling up took maybe 10 seconds, and releasing the buckle could be done with 1 finger. IMO it's easier to get out of a harness than it is to get out of a seat belt. But then again, I'm a very nimble, agile creature
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You can get out of a seat belt without unhooking it. You can't do that with a harness, even a quick release. Seat belts are designed with that in mind for good reason, I promise.
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Halo's are not required and swing-outs are legal to 8.50 if done to meet specs. They outline all the requirements in the rulebook on page 44-45.
I could be totally wrong on the 'halo' bar, but unless I totally missed something, the rule book doesn't state anywhere that one is needed (that don't mention it at all):
http://www.nhra.com/tech_specs/sport...C_Rulebook.pdf
I could be totally wrong on the 'halo' bar, but unless I totally missed something, the rule book doesn't state anywhere that one is needed (that don't mention it at all):
http://www.nhra.com/tech_specs/sport...C_Rulebook.pdf
I'm doing a bad thing by saying "halo" all the time. You need bars along the roof on both sides and a bar crossing between them for strength. Once upon a time that was done with all one piece and called a halo. I keep saying that even though it's not technically accurate now. My bad.
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Blake, I know that you were talking about the top drivers door bar or left portion of the halo bar as well as the front, It would still be almost impossible for me to hit my head on it , I positioned the seats low and the bottom seat portion is recessed down. I'm tall and my head is a good 4-5 inches away. I dont know how the rx7's cages are but padding would be a must on anything close to your brain bucket.
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
I put a 12pt cage in the dime because I wanted to, and out of necessity. I modified my firewall, and because I knew I wanted to run at least 9's. I run in NMCA events and they tech your car, if you run faster than your certified then your done, It would be a real bummer to have to pack it up everytime you went too fast.
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
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I may have figured out a new rear end for the RX7.
C4 Corvette Dana 36. If all works out I'll have one here modified for the RX7 rear half shafts. I'll have to shorten the "batwing" rear mounts a bit and build front/rear mounts into the chassis for it, but that's no biggie.
Who does everyone deal with for driveshafts? I'll have to have a custom one made as my current setup will be about 5-6" too short.
C4 Corvette Dana 36. If all works out I'll have one here modified for the RX7 rear half shafts. I'll have to shorten the "batwing" rear mounts a bit and build front/rear mounts into the chassis for it, but that's no biggie.
Who does everyone deal with for driveshafts? I'll have to have a custom one made as my current setup will be about 5-6" too short.
Fort Wayne Clutch can build you one, or you could go with one of the 3.5" Alum PST driveshafts like the ones we sell. http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=827 There is a chart where we use the x dimension to get the length. Pm "Azar" to see what he can knock off the price if you're interested. Bob
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I guarantee something has to cross between the two down bars on the NHRA style 8 point. Otherwise there is no structural support there (as Ponyhuntr stated). I paid enough attention in engineering class to be 100% sure here. You may not be seeing it in the pictures, but it is there.
Roll cage is much, much harder than what is there right now. I dig the momentum bit, but 3x terminal momentum with 2" less travel distance is still terminal.
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I fear Hondas.
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You can get out of a seat belt without unhooking it. You can't do that with a harness, even a quick release. Seat belts are designed with that in mind for good reason, I promise.
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On the bright side, if you only disagree with 90% of what I said, you're only like 85% wrong (I'll give that I could be 5% wrong)
I kid...
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You, sir, just got served
Last edited by The Beast; 11-17-2009 at 08:11 PM.
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Technically, the rollcage wins and your skull loses.
I got nothing for that.
Your picture doesn't work. Served = you.
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