The Beast

iTrader: (16)

I meant as far as my head hitting the car's roof or hitting the roll cage. It's like which is better, falling out of the 10th floor of a building or the 15th floor. Both options end in less than favorable outcomes.

Note the time of my edit, compared to your time of posting, yo.

EH HE HE, SHAMONE

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

You are aware that I built a remote control self destruct into your car, right?

The Beast

iTrader: (16)

Son of a

Lunatic5oh

Slowr w/o Blowr

iTrader: (1)

Bob, that rear end set up in the Mazda looks pretty good. Was that something your guys built or put together?

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Thanks! It came from a place called Grannys Performance, and we installed it.
The car seriously needs an anti roll bar before it rolls over onto it's right side at the starting line... Steve, the owner is going to have us install one. Bob

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

Bob,

I hear you on the CTS; there are a few guys on the RX7 boards running well into the 9's with this setup though, which is more than I plan on doing (a 10.5 range pass is all I expect out of this car at best). The other thing that should (help) keep it alive is the fact that I'll never run a wrinkle wall on it. Plus, I can finish the entire setup for nearly free. At any rate it's stronger than what's in the car, and I've never hurt that (because I drive like a girly-man); if I could get the gearing I want in the stock diff, I'd honestly have done that.

I'm also planning to run a 929 half-shaft on one side as it's a different weight than the TII half-shaft; this should, in theory, help negate wheel hop; GM used that on the ZR1, so I'm going to try the shadetree version on my car. We'll see how it goes.

Honestly, if it doesn't work out, I'll probably just step up to a mini-tub with a 4 link rear frame kit and a 9". I've seen the setup you guys did for Steve's car in person at Indy and it's very nice, I just don't want to lose the IRS in the car if I don't have to.

FW Clutch did my last driveshaft and messed up a couple things (replaced my good yoke for no reason, didn't reassemble my old driveshaft, etc.), but the quality of their work is definitely good. I will give Drew a shout about the PST units as soon as I get this setup in the car and some measurements sorted.

Thanks!

Blake

Ponyhntr

iTrader: (9)

If anyone knows of anyone wanting some BLACK ZR1's or an LT1 T56 swap, I'll be coming back to Fort Wayne over Christmas.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/non-lsx-p...l#post12518679

https://ls1tech.com/forums/non-lsx-p...ale-trade.html

The Beast

iTrader: (16)

Anybody seen a BMR alternator mount used with just the crank pulley, water pump, and alternator?

I need to get rid of the tensioner on the passenger side and am trying to devise a way to do so while keeping the alternator in the stock f-body location.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

Well, I pulled the trigger on the Dana 36 setup. I actually sold my stock rear for 325 + S&H and purchased this setup (including 300 dollar custom stub axles) for 283 dollars shipped. I couldn't pass it up for that deal.

I've got to get someone to weld up the aluminum rear mounting wing (once I narrow it) and I have to build a couple of simple mounts (two angle iron "ears" on the frame and a front mount that I want to figure out how to add a bushing into) then a driveshaft and it's a-ok.

Drew, I'll probably give you a call on the driveshaft once I get this in position and measured.

In other news, I MacGuyver'd an awesome stereo for my garage utilizing a computer power supply, a single DIN hole in my workbench face, an old Sony car stereo and a set of nice home theater speakers. Loud enough to **** off my neighbors and it takes up 0 floorspace. Yes, I am a nerd.

tunedports10

iTrader: (1)

LOL my system consist of a half a$$ homebuilt single din box with a Sony car stereo and and power supply. Speakers are old huge home theater speakers that take up about 3 square feet

b_ver_plezer69

cannot believe you're selling it again!!!....super clean car, whats the miles on it D?... is the clutch problems been taken care of?? ....you're smart by setting the price real high so you can come down...too many people set the price for what they want for it and when someone wants to dicker, they cant go no where....so at 18k that should give you plenty of room to move....I might have a guy just need the miles and the clutch issue answered... thanks bro

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

Holy ****, Ken's alive!

SS1875

iTrader: (34)

Little over 52,000 on the body.....under 6,000 on the motor. Trans will have new synchronizers installed before car will be sold, then it will be pretty much a fresh rebuild with all the good **** (minus) the viper shafts. Not sure I will take anything less than 18,000 but you never know. Car has some pretty good parts in it to go much lower.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

As with most any of you guys and selling your cars, it always makes me sad.

Sorry you are selling the car D.

switches

Is there anyone on here anymore,This place is a ghost town. Also darren you have to sell your car to someone out of town. It would tear you up to see your car around town ,especially if they put nitro on it and make it run like faster than you did. Hope job hunting goes well for ya and you don't have to sell it.

03CobraMike

iTrader: (1)

^^^-- i still migrate over here every once in a while, but you're right, it's definitely been a ghost town on here as of late.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

It goes in spurts here but yes, it's slow...

Mike, you need to update your sig.

halucinator

iTrader: (3)

I'm sure you could sell it to someone from Canada. Someone in the lounge sold one to a person in Canada for $22,000. I guess F-bodies are gold up there or something.

I stop trying to post because ls1tech is gay and is slow as hell now.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

Things usually slow down on here when it starts getting cold out, and the cars go away to hibernate. Mines been in hybernation for about a year now. And it still has about another year before I get it out. Hopefully everything ends up okay after sitting that long. It has been started about a month ago and idled to normal temps, and I'll probably do that again before I get it out for good. But I don't like it sitting for this long of time. I keep thinking things will dry up, or go bad.

I winterized it the best I could. And some race gas was ran through it upon start up.

Hopefully it will hold up that long all put away.