How to change spark plugs
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How to change spark plugs
Search is not working. I need to change my plugs (02 F-Body), I want take it to the drags tonight. But they look next to impossibe to change on the pass rear. Please help! or at least point me in the right dirction.
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I have big arms and hands so it is difficult for me to squeeze back there with a wrench. I can get all of the plugs except number 8 using swivels and extensions. What I have found works easiest for me is jacking up the front of the car, unbolting the passenger side cat, and viola, #8 is right there. If the others on the passenger side are problems for you, you could get the others this way too.
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pull the coil packs off that will help with some room, but yea number 8 is a bitch you will prolly have to jack up the car. I have longtubes so its easier for me, but you can also try kneeling on the battery and getting #8 plug that way to get back there instead of stretching over the car.
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Okay, I have rounded up some tools, But have a few more questions. I am assuming I will need dielectric grease and anti-seize? And what about those metal covers on the spark plug boots? chuck em or use em? I am installing some MSD wires and have LT's.
Last edited by slow ride 02; 02-19-2009 at 12:51 AM.
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its not bad to change them, we just did a 2000 T/A 2 nights ago....no swivels, special sockets or special ratchets were needed......number 8 was got from the bottom and rest were gotten from top.....Good luck
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I got all mine from up top. The driver side ones were easy. The passenger side ones were ok until I got to #8. I got it from the top kneeling on the battery. The whole process would have gone a lot smoother and faster but I spent the majority of the time trying to muscle off the #8 boot from the plug. Once it popped off it was ok from there. I took off the coil packs on the passenger side to help. Before I did that there was a metal thing stabbing my arm the whole time I was trying to get the boot off #8, pissed me off!
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I got #8 from the top, I used a 12" ratchet with the adj. head. It took me about 20-25 mins for #8 alone and an hour for the rest. Oh btw I removed my AIR fittings from my manifolds, with out doing that it wouldv'e have been impossible. And yes you can chuck the heat shields.
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The metal heat shields. I put them on over my MSD wires. It won't hurt, it's just added protection. Unless you are into getting rid of every last ounce of uneeded weight, why not put them on?
mark jr.
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Thanks guys! I am all over it! I think there might be plenty of assembly lube needed...lol get it?
Last edited by slow ride 02; 02-19-2009 at 12:56 AM.
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Yep, dielectric grease and never sieze is needed. Make sure you don't put too much never sieze on it, or put it on too many threads because if there is to much, when it heats up, it can get on the electrode and cause you problems.
The metal heat shields. I put them on over my MSD wires. It won't hurt, it's just added protection. Unless you are into getting rid of every last ounce of uneeded weight, why not put them on?
mark jr.
The metal heat shields. I put them on over my MSD wires. It won't hurt, it's just added protection. Unless you are into getting rid of every last ounce of uneeded weight, why not put them on?
mark jr.
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Yeah I am looking for a double adjustable one so I can tweak it on the car. Not sure if a Moser 9" will be accurate enough to be center. I made a heavy duty one by cutting the stock bushing ends off, welded a heavy duty pipe in the middle and tossed some enery suspension bushings in it, drilled and tapped for grease fittings. Damn rear end is perfectly centered. I looked at rod ends and piping from a local racer and I couldn't build it for $51. I will check out what you mentioned.
thanks for the info
mark jr.