Things to look for when buying a F-Body LS1
12-13-2007, 07:15 PM
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Things to look for when buying a F-Body LS1 Lookin' to pick up a Trans Am, but, I'm totally new to LS1's and RWD in general. Coming from the dark side (supercharged civic si 
) and I have had a boner for trans ams since I was 15.
So, what should a newb look for when trying to pick up one? so far i've heard to look at the headlight and window motors, and the rear seal.
anything else ?? how stout is the ls1? what kinda mileage is normal, how do i look for wear and tear. just gimme what you got!!
thanks guys!!
john
) and I have had a boner for trans ams since I was 15.So, what should a newb look for when trying to pick up one? so far i've heard to look at the headlight and window motors, and the rear seal.
anything else ?? how stout is the ls1? what kinda mileage is normal, how do i look for wear and tear. just gimme what you got!!
thanks guys!!
john
12-13-2007, 07:40 PM
#2
No offense, but supercharged civics are certainly not the darkside to an f-body 
As for things to check...
-Headlight Motors
-Window Motors
-T-Top Seals
-Rear End Leaks
The LS1 is a very solid motor. Never had a single engine problem with my car and its at 85,xxx. As for mileage, depends on the tranny and your driving style. My experience with an A4, 3600 stall, 3.73's, and a leadfoot is about 15-20 mpg average. I've heard with an M6 you can do as well as 28 mpg highway.
I think you're in for a treat once you figure out what having torque is like!
As for things to check...
-Headlight Motors
-Window Motors
-T-Top Seals
-Rear End Leaks
The LS1 is a very solid motor. Never had a single engine problem with my car and its at 85,xxx. As for mileage, depends on the tranny and your driving style. My experience with an A4, 3600 stall, 3.73's, and a leadfoot is about 15-20 mpg average. I've heard with an M6 you can do as well as 28 mpg highway.
I think you're in for a treat once you figure out what having torque is like!
12-13-2007, 09:45 PM
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Just like any other car, you want to check the basics.
Make sure the oil looks good, look for any smoke on start-up and wide open throttle, listen for knocks, the basic stuff you would do with any other car.
CWW17 listed some great things to look for also, especially the head light motors. Listen carefully for any grinding that sounds unusual.
As far as the amount of miles...There are guys on this site that are running strong and making some major powe on 100,000+ motors. It really depends on how many miles that you are comfortable with.
I suggest browsing throught the for sale section of this site and see what other people are asking for (or being offered) for cars in the similair condition of the Trans Am you are looking at.
Make sure the oil looks good, look for any smoke on start-up and wide open throttle, listen for knocks, the basic stuff you would do with any other car.
CWW17 listed some great things to look for also, especially the head light motors. Listen carefully for any grinding that sounds unusual.
As far as the amount of miles...There are guys on this site that are running strong and making some major powe on 100,000+ motors. It really depends on how many miles that you are comfortable with.
I suggest browsing throught the for sale section of this site and see what other people are asking for (or being offered) for cars in the similair condition of the Trans Am you are looking at.
12-13-2007, 10:48 PM
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You are sweating the small stuff like the headlights and window motors! I had my passenger side window go out, and my driver side was slow...all I had to do was replace the regulators, which is a common fix. It cost me about $60 for both regulators!
As for leaks...the t-tops may leak. Use baby oil on them to keep the rubber moist so it doesn't dry out and crack.
Just be mainly concerned with the engine.
How stout is it? Well, take a ride in one and I think you will see how much power they put out. As for durability? GM makes an excellent engine. I am not saying that something can't go wrong, it always can...but its still a strong engine that was designed to take a beating.
Mileage? I had an M6 with 4.10s. I was getting around 12 mpg city. One time I got around 22 when I spent almost an entire tank on interstate driving in 6th.
As for leaks...the t-tops may leak. Use baby oil on them to keep the rubber moist so it doesn't dry out and crack.
Just be mainly concerned with the engine.
How stout is it? Well, take a ride in one and I think you will see how much power they put out. As for durability? GM makes an excellent engine. I am not saying that something can't go wrong, it always can...but its still a strong engine that was designed to take a beating.
Mileage? I had an M6 with 4.10s. I was getting around 12 mpg city. One time I got around 22 when I spent almost an entire tank on interstate driving in 6th.
12-13-2007, 11:20 PM
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DO not worry bout the window motors you will change them sooner or later Ive done atleast 6 or 7, not in the same car but all f-bodies.
As for mileage I have a 99 with a cam and a 125 shot and its got 128XXX miles on it and its still feelin strong.
As for mileage I have a 99 with a cam and a 125 shot and its got 128XXX miles on it and its still feelin strong.
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12-14-2007, 04:29 AM
#9
Look in the rear wheel wells for plastered up rubber. If you are buying a M6, ask when the clutch was last changed. If its an auto, you are on borrowed time if the mileage is over 100,000 and the car was driven hard.
12-14-2007, 07:37 AM
#11
Inspect where any body welds meet. Like how you can open the hatch and see where the quarter panels are welded down. Check if they look different than a smooth factory weld, that will tell you if they have been replaced.
I wouldn't really worry about any of the things you mentioned. I would actually consider a car with all those problems because you could prolly get a seller down on price quite a bit if it had a bad window motor, headlight motor, etc.
Look for uneven tire wear. Check for service records. Rear ends are rear seals are common to leak, don't worry about it. The engine bay being clean usually separates a well kept car from a just washed to sell car. Check out where it was usually kept/stored for oil spots...
Depends how meticulous you wanna be about it.
I wouldn't really worry about any of the things you mentioned. I would actually consider a car with all those problems because you could prolly get a seller down on price quite a bit if it had a bad window motor, headlight motor, etc.
Look for uneven tire wear. Check for service records. Rear ends are rear seals are common to leak, don't worry about it. The engine bay being clean usually separates a well kept car from a just washed to sell car. Check out where it was usually kept/stored for oil spots...
Depends how meticulous you wanna be about it.
12-14-2007, 03:43 PM
#14
If you're getting an LS1, find a buddy with one and feel out the clutch. I had a dead slave when I bought the car, and didn't know it. Check the pedal feel.
Also check the fluid. You're looking at 500-750$ parts/labor if the slave dies on you.
Make sure all the lights light up on the dash when you turn the key on. If someone disconnects an SES light, it can be annoying.
Look at the vehicle's condition, and you can usually tell how well it was taken care of.
Also check the fluid. You're looking at 500-750$ parts/labor if the slave dies on you.
Make sure all the lights light up on the dash when you turn the key on. If someone disconnects an SES light, it can be annoying.
Look at the vehicle's condition, and you can usually tell how well it was taken care of.
anyone else?
12-14-2007, 05:49 PM
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IMOP its best to find a car stock or as close to stock as possible, usually they have not been driven as hard plus you can really appreciate the mods more once you do it yourself and feel the power differance.
Main thing just look for signs of abuse and how hard its driven.
Main thing just look for signs of abuse and how hard its driven.
12-14-2007, 09:28 PM
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If you're getting an LS1, find a buddy with one and feel out the clutch. I had a dead slave when I bought the car, and didn't know it. Check the pedal feel.
Also check the fluid. You're looking at 500-750$ parts/labor if the slave dies on you.
Make sure all the lights light up on the dash when you turn the key on. If someone disconnects an SES light, it can be annoying.
Look at the vehicle's condition, and you can usually tell how well it was taken care of.
Also check the fluid. You're looking at 500-750$ parts/labor if the slave dies on you.
Make sure all the lights light up on the dash when you turn the key on. If someone disconnects an SES light, it can be annoying.
Look at the vehicle's condition, and you can usually tell how well it was taken care of.
12-14-2007, 10:23 PM
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one trick some older mechanics have told me (i am new to the aluminum blocks so i dont know if this applies to aluminum less than iron, i would'nt see why not) is to check the top of the dipstick, if it has a brownish burnt look about an inch to two inches long the motor has been run hot, which i know can not be good for aluminum.
12-15-2007, 07:16 AM
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for a bad clutch, well before mine died, it wouldn't grab until the pedal was damn near the floor, and brand new it will grab like a inch into pressing it...
Last edited by bryan04h; 12-15-2007 at 11:21 AM.
