KingKiller

iTrader: (7)

I'm running one and it seems that it only works when I run a 75 shot. Any more than that and it starts to break up. The more I run the more it breaks up. Seems to be an atomization issue. How shitty are these nozzles? Does anyone here actually run one? I'm converting to a plate immediately unless an act of god stops me.

Nick@HSW

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like there might be something else going on. You shouldn't be having that sort of issue on the size shot with that nozzle. I would double check the plugs, bottle, wiring etc before you switch to something else. Shoot me a PM if you need help checking.

Nick

Chris@NitroDaves

Did you buy the kit used or brand new?

If you could look over the lines to see if there is a kink or a crimped place. Also it's hard to tell this but can you try and look in the ends with a flash light to see if you have a flapper < a piece of Teflon is cut from the insert when the hose is assembled >

-Chris

KingKiller

iTrader: (7)

Hey Chris, thanks for the suggestions. I actually bought this car about a year ago with the kit installed. It ran fine on the 75 shot, taking the car from 12.6 to 11.8 on the shot. I tried upping the jets, 100, 125, 150, and the car never went any faster. Several times I thougth I located the problem. I replace the -4 feed line with a -6. Didn't fix it. Replaced the lines from the solenoids to the nozzle, no difference. Realized the nozzle I was using was an old old NOS nozzle so I bought their softplume nozzle. Didn't fix it. I realized my nitrous solenoid was small, only good for a 200 shot, so I replaced it with the 400hp nos solenoid. Also replaced the fuel solenoid for the helluva it. Still didn't fix it. Replaced the microswitch just in case. No dice. It's been a mystery to me.

derekderek

iTrader: (21)

Are you running a nitrous filter could be clogged. Also do you know when you start to spray are you running rich or lean when it starts back firing. Also the location of the nozzle could be causing it to close to the throttle body maybe try turning the nozzle around see if that helps.

TT632

iTrader: (3)

Could be plug gap. you usually dont run into this issue until much bigger shots are used, but try closing up the gap on the plugs by 0.005".

KingKiller

iTrader: (7)

Hey Derek,

I've checked the filter a few times and it's always been good. The nozzle is kidna close to the throttlebody, another reason I'd like to just replace it with a plate.

derekderek

iTrader: (21)

Well I dont know what engine or car you have but on my LT1 I had it to close and it would buck pop misfire stutter when ever I sprayed over 100shot. Tried moving it back an inch or two and it cleared right up. Let us know what you are working with car and such. Might help us out.


Derek

KingKiller

iTrader: (7)

Hey, I have an LS1 camaro. I just had an idea. what if the added force of anything more than a 75 shot is causing the nozzle to flex in the bellow, changing the direction that it's spraying? aka spraying into the side or something like that?

derekderek

iTrader: (21)

Its possible but I think then you would have fuel puddling up and have some backfires through the intake or it would be running lean as crap because the nitrous would still be sucked in just the fuel would have a harder time getting circulated. I think if this was the case after a couple runs on it and you checked the plugs you would be able to tell if it was going lean or the electrodes would be melting.

Do you have any fuel mods? Where are the noids grounded to? Are they grounded together or separate? have you pulled the nozzle out and activated the kit to make sure you are getting a good spray? Do one side at a time first fuel then nitrous. Maybe take a pic of the nozzle install so we can see.

Also how is the car off the nitrous? Is it kept up on maintenance pretty good?

KingKiller

iTrader: (7)

I do get a lot of popping and backfiring when I let off the gas after a bottle run. Seems like there is an awful lot of fuel leftover. When I changed the plugs the other day the straps were green on the bottom. No idea what that means. It wasn't even St Patrick's day yet lol.

Just a Walbro GSS340 in the tank. Noids are gounded to the passenger side strut tower. Sanded it down to metal and grounded them. The noid ground wires are each crimped into their own eye-hole and screwed down on the ground spot. I've tested the noids to not click on and off or anything like that. I have pulled the nozzle out and tested it and it sprays nice and strong. Strong enough to knock the nozzle out of my hands the first time I tested it lol. Car runs great off the nitrous, went 12.1 at 112 with a stock heads/cam motor

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

I'm running a 100 shot through a nozzle, & its close to the TB with no issues, are you running a window switch? Oh & something else, are you running hard lines or braided, stock elbow or aluminum aftermarket??

KingKiller

iTrader: (7)

I was running a window switch but I removed it to try and isolate the issue. Braided lines. What elbow are you referring to?

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

Your air intake elbow to the TB, the one that you have the Nozzle in, if its still the stock rubber unit, & your running braided lines, your most likely having nozzle movement when activated, this i'm sure can cause issues, thats why i ran hard line, my nozzle stays steady, remember what you said when you tested it, it almost flew out of your hands, so theres alot of pressure going through it, how steady do you think it'll be in a rubber elbow with braided lines that aren't steady like hard ones, if you run the aluminum elbow, the nozzle will stay steady, this is just a thought, not that its the issue. I don't know whats up with the green on the ground straps .

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

He has an ls1 not an lt1. There is no elbow

derekderek

iTrader: (21)

The green on the plugs is pretty weird about the only thing to explain it would be if you used some kind of octane booster/fuel injector cleaner. If you did that could also cause the stuttering and misfires I know it may sound weird but something in some of the octane boosters that causes stuttering under higher cylinder pressure seen it first hand. Also made the plugs orange from the dye in the booster.


Hmmm this problem seems pretty weird I would try to change nozzle placement. Are you using anything for timing control? Not saying its needed just maybe its throwing something off.

TrickPerformanceProducts

iTrader: (11)

Sound like ignition. Loading the system harder causing a bad fire, this can cause popping in the exhaust. What plugs, plug gaps, etc.
OR
way way way overly rich.... What is the jetting #'s you are using?

100shot 52nitrous XX fuel???
etc.
the green is a fuel additive. or anitfreeze... I bet fuel additive.

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

Which nozzle EXACTLY are you running. What color? NOS makes several. Some of the older ones have had issues. If its a newer style there should be no issues.

Aside from that....have you checked your AF ratio during these runs? Checked it at 75 and then above 75?

KingKiller

iTrader: (7)

I'm using the NGK TR6 plug gapped at .035. With the 150 shot I'm using a 63 and a 32, pulling 6 degrees of timing. I've also tried running stock timing using the 63 and a 38. Both seem to do the same thing.

I hope the green isn't antifreeze! lol I haven't used any fuel additive, just running 93 octane all the time. Maybe it's the nitrogen i think shell is putting in their gas now.

KingKiller

iTrader: (7)

I'm using the new stainless steel soft-plume nozzle.

I originally ran it on the dyno when selecting which fuel jets to use and made sure the a/f's were safe.