Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I honestly don't know.

I glanced at the gauge once the entire time I was running and IIRC it was top of 1st or 2nd and I think it said 12.8 I am not sure though.

-4 main line to nitrous solenoid, -4 from solenoid to plate, -4 from rail to solenoid, upgrade to -4 from solenoid to plate on fuel side Sunday.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Ok that makes me feel a lot better then. I thought I had read that in Carter's GMHTP feature, I didn't know you ran one also.

Makes me feel better hearing that about the stall also. I asked Smith what his thoughts were on the amount of slip and he said the same that it wasn't bad.

I think 2* for a total of 8* timing retard will be better performance and plug wise. You think all in all those plugs look ok though? Not horrible, better than my first couple sets?

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for your help and for the response to my PM.

It really helps to have your help, cams help, carter and all the rest of you guys and my local buddies to lend an opinion or hand.

So 1100 psi is a no no?

I know you said 950 in your response to my PM, when I am running the Nano next time from what I've read it's going to put it at 1050, but it will keep it constant.

I still think the 46f jet is too much fuel jet. Won't it be richer with lower pressure also?

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Ok, I guess it is a no no or not advantageous or correct to run it that high.

I will run it 900-950.

I am going to run my buddies Nano though next time out as I said in my previous post it will most likely put it at 1050 from what I have gathered.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I will try that for sure when I don't run the nano.

Seems to be the general consensus that no one runs that high of bottle pressure and uses between 850-950psi to keep it consistent and less pressure drop.

I saw a post in the nitrous section of YB and a guy said he ran 850psi at the start of the run and it was 822 at the end. Drop of 28psi that is a small margin.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Thank you Cape T/A now all I need is to have you re-wire my car for that "professional" look and I'll be all set!!!

n2ols1cam

Oh ok. I was told the -4 main could only support around a 225 shot. Have you had any experance with a bigger shot that a 225 on that line? What nitrous jet are you running? Also, is 12.8 a little to lean?

WhiteLTone

iTrader: (18)

fbod - fwiw, we also like to run between 900-950 psi in the bottle. We're pulling 10deg out, w/ total timing on a 200shot being 18*. Our plugs look almost identical, plan to pull a deg or two to see what happens. tow rig looks mean!

camscam02

iTrader: (21)

yes sir, I ran one until I went to my two stage setup and now have a Nitrous Express standalone in the car. Great piece.

Yea they are ok, I would feel fine pulling them out of the car but knowing I need to do a lot to that tuneup to get it right. It seems you are more worried about the first sixty feet, you need to leave that alone and work on the tuneup. 1.30 is great, get it to run right and then turn around and work in the sixty foot if you feel there is more left in it.

Also Im not sure why you are gonna run Nano, all the tuneup info you learn on the Nano won't be helpful when you don't use it... just some food for thought.

good luck sir

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

if it was me i would stay clear of the nano deal unless your buying one..why mess with it if its not going to be your reg setup..i would stick to dialing in what i got first..nano with steady 1050psi vs 950 an some drop will be diff tunes..


edit treed by cam

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

No problem, glad to help.

You dont need a nano, just one more pain in the *** to fill and keep track of.
If you want more power just put a bigger jet in it.

Less bottle pressure will richen up up a little, not much.
The 2* of timing will lean it out a little also thats why I suggested to put bottle at 950psi add 2* and make a pass to see what the plugs look like.

You dont want to make to many changes at one time.
And from the looks of that plug the tune isnt to far off so small changes from here on out.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I have heard anywhere from 200 to 300. I can see it being a restriction.

I will say this after looking at the size difference between a -3 line and fitting versus a -4 line and fitting that difference is huge, I can only imagine the difference in a -4 to a -6.

When I pony up the coin for a quarter turn valve, fittings, and big 5" nitrous pressure gauge from Induction Solutions I am going to change the -4 main line to a -6.

Now as far as the afr being too lean. Here are my thoughts on that.

So far as you have seen in this thread, Cam and ATV both are saying that it needs timing/and or leaned out to get more heat in the plug. Looking at the plug it is getting close and will just need a few fine changes to get right.

If you just look at the number 12.8 and tell yourself oh that's too lean without even knowing what the plug looks like how do you really know that is too lean? It could still be pig rich(not likely but....) or it could be way too lean and starting to nip electrodes off the plug.

You won't know for sure until you read your plugs and you really have to either pull them on the return road or tow it back.

The difference in how a plug looks being towed up and back and one that was driven up and back on the same tune-up is huge. Driving it up and back will make it look rich when in all reality it could be lean down track and you're leaning it out more or adding more timing and kaboom next pass.

Plug reading is critical then reference the wide band and what it says during the run.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Thanks Whitey, Steve sent me a PM this morning with some of that info.

LOL I'm glad you like my tow rig, I think if the car weighed anymore the poor thing wouldn't be able to take off at all. Just a little 4cyl 5 speed, but I got A/C AND a radio!!!

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

It's not that I am worried about the 60' per say I actually look at the 330' more than any other increment on the ticket.

I just know if it doesn't 60' or 330' it won't do what I want down track.

So things to do:

1)lower pressure to 900-950
2)add 2* timing
3)Should I try the 78n/38f tune-up or should I put the 82n/46f back in and do the above? I feel like it will be even more rich if I do this?

The only reason I was going to run the Nano is my buddy and I were interested in seeing what it could gain in my set-up. I don't know why some people don't even like it being brought up for use it seems?

If the Nano puts the pressure at 1050 then the tune-up I use for that will be for 1050 pressure, without it will be 900. I don't see what's so complicated about that? It's going to be leaner at 1050 and richer at 900. Not arguing it just seems cut and dry.

I also wanted to use it because I only have two bottles. 9/10 only one of them is full. I'd like to get as much as possible out of the bottle before it's empty.

I saw/felt a huge difference after my second pass with how the car pulled down track. It wouldn't hold pressure anymore and barely any nitrous came out the purge on the 3rd nitrous pass. Granted as I see now I was running too high a pressure which is harder to maintain and duplicate. I just saw the nano as a way of not having varying conditions.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I understand that, it just doesn't seem like that big of a deal?

ATV has said that bottle pressure doesn't really have that big of an effect on afr, it's just the amount of drop that changes with higher starting pressures.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

It was offered to me to use. I figured why not? I don't really want more power per say I just didn't want to have to mess with a bottle heater, keeping the bottle at the right pressure, having the bottle empty after 4 passes and performance dropping off after 2 passes.

I will think about the Nano idea, but I really would like to at least try it out. I don't see what's so bad about it.

n2ols1cam

Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it. I'm trying to take in as much info as i can so i can get my tune spot on. I eventually want to go up to a 250 shot while keeping the -4 line.

I am hoping to make it out to the track today and see what i can run on a slightly leaner 200 shot. I have added a little timing in the lower rpms so i can hopefully get my 60' down. what is your total timing?

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Total timing is 27* pulling 10 from that. My timing retard is pulled progressively as rpm rise starting at launch rpm and going all the way to red line. When I launch at 3600rpm I am only pulling 2*-3* timing, but where the converter couples and starts to "lock up" at 5600rpm I have 7*-8* pulled out and when it really locks up hard at 6000rpm all 10 degrees is pulled out by then. That way when I shift from first to second and second to third it has all 10 degrees out of it, but in 1st gear it ramps the timing down so the car is faster out of the hole and to the 330'.

If your car spins doing this, speed up the timing retard ramp or pull more timing at the rpm it spins than you were doing the run before.

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

Martin, I have been racking my brain with the wiring setups, with regular 5 pin relays, it simply cant be done to run all three systems together. Might not have been a "good" outting for you, but at least you didnt break anything (not really), and you did manage to shave .01 off your time.. I'd call that a good track outing any day.

n2ols1cam

ok thanks for the info man. You are a big help! what fuel are you running on that tune up?