98 trans am with nitrous ( recomendations please)
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98 trans am with nitrous ( recomendations please) I got a 98 trans am ws6 6 speed. Its got 106 k miles
Its only got hooker long tubes, SLP lid, texas speed y pipe, and magnaflow cat back.
And 410 gears
What's the safest nitrous to use wet or dry and why??
Not spraying over 100-125 HP
I know a dry kit u spray before mass air flow it changes timing is that true?
How would u take timing out for wet
Its only got hooker long tubes, SLP lid, texas speed y pipe, and magnaflow cat back.
And 410 gears
What's the safest nitrous to use wet or dry and why??
Not spraying over 100-125 HP
I know a dry kit u spray before mass air flow it changes timing is that true?
How would u take timing out for wet
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I would recommend talking to the guys at Nitrous Outlet to iron out all the details but I am doing the same thing right now for my 01 TA M6 and I would never run a dry kit. I would like the safety of knowing the fuel is being supplied with the nitrous. By no means am I saying dry kits won't work and I know there are guys spraying 300 shots dry but it's just my opinion and I would say to go with a Nitrous Outlet plate kit that way if you want to go to a bigger shot down the road your ready for it. Also, don't forget all the safety stuff... WOT, RPM window, Fuel pressure shut off, etc.
I will be the second recommendation to call nitrous outlet. They are great guys with a fantastic product and won't steer you wrong.
I like a plate better then a nozzle but the nozzle works up to approx a 150 shot. Research and install it correctly with no shortcuts, make sure the tune is safe with a wideband, back off some timing depending on size jets, change plugs to a colder non-projected tip plug. Every set up is a smidge different so do plenty of research.
I like a plate better then a nozzle but the nozzle works up to approx a 150 shot. Research and install it correctly with no shortcuts, make sure the tune is safe with a wideband, back off some timing depending on size jets, change plugs to a colder non-projected tip plug. Every set up is a smidge different so do plenty of research.
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Verdad Gallardo a controller as stated OR you set the timing for the spray and leave it alone OR you pull it with HP tuners when you plan to spray. 100-125 shot isn't going to need much timing pulled if the tune is solid.
Hey, i just realized my son bought a nitrous kit off you last fall...why didn't you just run that one? The purge solenoid had junk in it but once we cleaned everything out and wired it up it worked fine. He went from N/A 12.30 @ 112 to 100 shot 11.20 @121 with that little nozzle kit.
Hey, i just realized my son bought a nitrous kit off you last fall...why didn't you just run that one? The purge solenoid had junk in it but once we cleaned everything out and wired it up it worked fine. He went from N/A 12.30 @ 112 to 100 shot 11.20 @121 with that little nozzle kit.
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Yeah I was going to say the same thing that u have my old kit lol. I know how I did it on my lt1 with timing and all.
How do u do it high impact?
What's the easiest way to take timing out
How do u do it high impact?
What's the easiest way to take timing out
My son and I both pull timing via HP Tuners. We tune with a wideband to make sure the tune is safe then pull 2 degrees for every 50 hp worth of spray. Actually when you start checking plugs and run a good wideband you don't really have to remove so much timing but you are better to start out safe. He was running projected tip plugs on that shot but we tuned it safe. This spring he's going with non-projected colder plugs, more timing and a larger jet. I am building a forged short block now and will be spraying a 200-250 this spring on a N2O plate kit.
I have a feeling my son is going to be looking for larger solenoids and a plate this summer. lol
I have a feeling my son is going to be looking for larger solenoids and a plate this summer. lol
Last edited by high impact; Jan 5, 2014 at 10:36 AM. Reason: spelling
The LNC2000 everyone references is a nice controller but not 100% necessary. For a smaller shot it's not a big deal to tune a couple degrees timing out and run the car that way n/a. What does it cost on a n/a tune? maybe a few horsepower? I think a controller is a waste of money for a smaller shot
Wet kit is best. If you run a dry kit you risk damaging your Mass Air Flow Sensor. Also... You eliminate a possible lean condition with the Wet Kit if an injector fails while running a Dry Kit.
Im running the LNC 2000 Timing Computer.... It works Great !
Im spraying a 100 shot... pulling 5 degrees of timing.
The advantage with the timing computer is that you can run full timing while running motor only. Timing is only pulled once you arm or power up your nitrous system.
This method is much safer for your motor.
Spraying before the Mass Air Flow meter while Running a Dry Kit... Does not Pull timing. It alters fuel flow at the injectors.
The MAF sensor tells the computer to deliver more fuel at the injector nozzles because of the increase in Oxygen & Air Flow caused by Nitrous injection.
Im running the LNC 2000 Timing Computer.... It works Great !
Im spraying a 100 shot... pulling 5 degrees of timing.
The advantage with the timing computer is that you can run full timing while running motor only. Timing is only pulled once you arm or power up your nitrous system.
This method is much safer for your motor.
Spraying before the Mass Air Flow meter while Running a Dry Kit... Does not Pull timing. It alters fuel flow at the injectors.
The MAF sensor tells the computer to deliver more fuel at the injector nozzles because of the increase in Oxygen & Air Flow caused by Nitrous injection.
Last edited by NOS LS1; Jan 5, 2014 at 10:40 PM.
Please explain to me why removing 5 degrees via a controller is "safer for your motor" then just running a safe tune for both n/a and a small 100 shot? I do understand that removing timing reduces horsepower n/a just a tad but I don't understand how it is unsafe versus a using a controller.
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If you go back to factory timing, and run 1 step cooler spark plugs, with 93 octane, you can spray 100 wet shot on stock tune. This is the simplest way to start spraying. Either wet or dry nitrous will work just fine. With dry you must get the motor tuned for that. Alot of guys are using the lnc-2000 box and seem to like it alot. If you have anymore questions let me know, its easier to explain things over the phone if you want to give me a ring.
If it was me, I would put a Proton Plus Single Nozzle System , I ran one on my car for awhile, with no issues, let me know what you decide and we can make a deal!
-Garrett
If it was me, I would put a Proton Plus Single Nozzle System , I ran one on my car for awhile, with no issues, let me know what you decide and we can make a deal!
-Garrett
I never said to blindly remove 5 degrees off current n/a tune for a 100 shot. I said a couple of degrees for a 100 shot. 2 degrees per 50 is what has been suggested as a rule of thumb but that is very conservative. What my son and I are both doing is just pulling enough timing for the tune to be safe yet still remain drivable for n/a. I can't tell you where your timing will end up since every system is a smidge different. If you tune correctly and read plugs you can easily remove just enough timing for a safe hit and still remain drivable for n/a. It does't cost as much horse power to accomplish this as you think.
I never said to blindly remove 5 degrees off current n/a tune for a 100 shot. I said a couple of degrees for a 100 shot. 2 degrees per 50 is what has been suggested as a rule of thumb but that is very conservative. What my son and I are both doing is just pulling enough timing for the tune to be safe yet still remain drivable for n/a. I can't tell you where your timing will end up since every system is a smidge different. If you tune correctly and read plugs you can easily remove just enough timing for a safe hit and still remain drivable for n/a. It does't cost as much horse power to accomplish this as you think.