Going N2O today I need help from you big guns. Beer, Noyzee, hsw, DT, etc...
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Guys thanks for taking the time to read. I have browsed this area and have really considered N2O for about a year now. Over the time I have bought random things from the board. (Heater, Window switch, Purge) and now it is time to pull the trigger. On June 2nd Sacramento Raceway is hosting "Vette Magic drags". I want to spray for the event. While I eventually will get to a plate kit, finances have me looking at a Wet kit and later upgrading. I want this kit to be SAFE and if I can't do it in my budget I will not even try. So with that all said here is where I need some assistance.
Wideband AF- This is very important and will not be looked over. I am a huge fan of the Autometer Ultralite CF gauges. I already have the FP and Vacumn so the SF will replace the Vacumn. While normally I think these "bounce around" type of gauges are useless I have read that I can use a LM1 to convert the gauge to a proper reading. That all for $200 or a buddy told me about a converter he found that turns the gauge into a WB for a whooping $35. This converter goes from 1V to 5V and comes with a guide as to what point is where. Do you think this is totally useless and just get the LM1 or can I save a few bucks now and later "upgrade"???
Is a Vacumn gauge useful in ANY way when spraying?
Besides a FPSS and the wet kit what else should I consider?
Since eventually this kit will be converted over do I opt for the Single or duel nozzle?
I am pushing max 125hp and will more then likely stay with 100hp but like I said it needs to be SAFE. I am removing my front Pass. seat and the bottle will be next to me so a gauge and opener are not needed. Bottle will have a gauge. Thanks again for making this a safe transition for me. My new 3.42 and 3K stalled Vette will love it.
Wideband AF- This is very important and will not be looked over. I am a huge fan of the Autometer Ultralite CF gauges. I already have the FP and Vacumn so the SF will replace the Vacumn. While normally I think these "bounce around" type of gauges are useless I have read that I can use a LM1 to convert the gauge to a proper reading. That all for $200 or a buddy told me about a converter he found that turns the gauge into a WB for a whooping $35. This converter goes from 1V to 5V and comes with a guide as to what point is where. Do you think this is totally useless and just get the LM1 or can I save a few bucks now and later "upgrade"???
Is a Vacumn gauge useful in ANY way when spraying?
Besides a FPSS and the wet kit what else should I consider?
Since eventually this kit will be converted over do I opt for the Single or duel nozzle?
I am pushing max 125hp and will more then likely stay with 100hp but like I said it needs to be SAFE. I am removing my front Pass. seat and the bottle will be next to me so a gauge and opener are not needed. Bottle will have a gauge. Thanks again for making this a safe transition for me. My new 3.42 and 3K stalled Vette will love it.
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#2
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Colder set of spark plugs and a bottle heater. On a 125 shot you can go with a single nozzle kit. Might want to run a RPM window switch so you don't have to monkey with the start RPM, figure you are going to spray through the shifts so you won't have to use the shut off point, unless you don't want the "wear & tear" of spraying through them.
Matt
Matt
Originally Posted by teddyca
Besides a FPSS and the wet kit what else should I consider?
Since eventually this kit will be converted over do I opt for the Single or duel nozzle?
I am pushing max 125hp and will more then likely stay with 100hp but like I said it needs to be SAFE. I am removing my front Pass. seat and the bottle will be next to me so a gauge and opener are not needed. Bottle will have a gauge. Thanks again for making this a safe transition for me. My new 3.42 and 3K stalled Vette will love it.![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
Since eventually this kit will be converted over do I opt for the Single or duel nozzle?
I am pushing max 125hp and will more then likely stay with 100hp but like I said it needs to be SAFE. I am removing my front Pass. seat and the bottle will be next to me so a gauge and opener are not needed. Bottle will have a gauge. Thanks again for making this a safe transition for me. My new 3.42 and 3K stalled Vette will love it.
![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
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Bottle heater is a must. go to tr6 plugs, sigle noz should be fine, i like that windo switch, turns on when you want, shuts off between shifts. i put one in my vett, and my current install in my cousins car, yhea one in that to.
other then that you have the basics pretty well covered
other then that you have the basics pretty well covered
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I just did the HSW sudden impact wet kit on my 02 WS6 M6. Getting it all buttoned up tonight hopefully!
Thought I might ask now that I spent 5hrs changing the plugs... I gapped my TR6 plugs to .038. Is that where I should have them? The car seems to run fine with them there, but maybe a tiny bit sluggish than with the denso plugs I had in it before.
BTW, I opted for the BMN window switch and the bottle heater too. No FPS switch yet however. I think I'll be running the 100HP jets on it tonight for testing.
-Eagle
Thought I might ask now that I spent 5hrs changing the plugs... I gapped my TR6 plugs to .038. Is that where I should have them? The car seems to run fine with them there, but maybe a tiny bit sluggish than with the denso plugs I had in it before.
BTW, I opted for the BMN window switch and the bottle heater too. No FPS switch yet however. I think I'll be running the 100HP jets on it tonight for testing.
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-Eagle
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Originally Posted by Eagle02
I just did the HSW sudden impact wet kit on my 02 WS6 M6. Getting it all buttoned up tonight hopefully!
Thought I might ask now that I spent 5hrs changing the plugs... I gapped my TR6 plugs to .038. Is that where I should have them? The car seems to run fine with them there, but maybe a tiny bit sluggish than with the denso plugs I had in it before.
BTW, I opted for the BMN window switch and the bottle heater too. No FPS switch yet however. I think I'll be running the 100HP jets on it tonight for testing.
-Eagle
Thought I might ask now that I spent 5hrs changing the plugs... I gapped my TR6 plugs to .038. Is that where I should have them? The car seems to run fine with them there, but maybe a tiny bit sluggish than with the denso plugs I had in it before.
BTW, I opted for the BMN window switch and the bottle heater too. No FPS switch yet however. I think I'll be running the 100HP jets on it tonight for testing.
![Rock](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/rock.gif)
-Eagle
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5 hours??
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Originally Posted by Noyzee
it took you 5 hours to change the plugs? did you use a can opener?
5 hours??
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5 hours??
I converted my single nozzle to a plate using Dave's Plate conversion.
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Originally Posted by SiL3NtXWS6
Stock manifolds and a bunch of clutter maybe... 5hrs is a long time though.
I converted my single nozzle to a plate using Dave's Plate conversion.
I converted my single nozzle to a plate using Dave's Plate conversion.
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5 hours for plugs
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#9
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I would just go the LM1 route, one of the best out there and so many features, check out their dedicated forum, mucho info on the lm1. It's what i run, however I still use the box and window mount for logging, later i will go gauge and put logger in glove box. going with HSW is a good choice, great products at reasonable prices. Check out my personal web sites in sig for some possible insight and/or ideas concerning the C5 and the giggle gas. keep us updated on your progress and results, plenty of C5 guys that are allways interested.
Robert
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Robert
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The LM 1 is a more portable unit powered by cig lighter, and has better logging abilities (I may get this one next for tuning my truck and 73 Charger).
The LC-1 has a nasty rep as being a tough install. Your not supposed to use the same grounds for a couple ground wires etc. Took me a while but Dynotune and GLMS got me through it.
Both the instruction sets for the LC1 and LM1 are readily available at the Innovate site.
Beer
The LC-1 has a nasty rep as being a tough install. Your not supposed to use the same grounds for a couple ground wires etc. Took me a while but Dynotune and GLMS got me through it.
Both the instruction sets for the LC1 and LM1 are readily available at the Innovate site.
Beer
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Originally Posted by teddyca
Thanks guys. I will keep you all posted. What is the difference in LM and LC. I can do the LC1 now, but will need so save up a little for the LM. That rear, tranny, and stall really broke the bank ![Cry](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cry.gif)
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Originally Posted by Robert56
You really need to check the forum out and/or their site. what the LM1 can do is amazing and way to much to try and list. here's mine on the acc window mount. Like beer said, you can use it on anything if ya like. i have mine hard wired (no lighter to plug in and look ugly) so it comes on automatic when car starts and wiring is cleaner this way, you can also hide the whole thing and run a gauge, or log live and watch it on a laptop. Using it to tune my Harley also, on the spray of course and dry.
Robert
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Is the LM-1 and other widebands usually or only really for dry systems? Is there a benefit to having one on a car without a dry shot or even nitrous at all?
Not just for Nitrous anymore
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Benefits? Absolutely, You can tune the car with it, no nitrous required.
Last edited by Beer99C5; 05-04-2007 at 10:45 AM.