long story short i used it on my head and cam motor and on the 150 jets it picked up 145 rwhp and 155 rwtq, then i finally got around to trying it on my 416 on friday and it picked up 205 rwhp and 210 rwtq on the 200 shot. and that was with 4* of timing pulled from the na runs. i will try and upload the dyno graph in the dyno section in the next day or 2. nice product!

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...9#post10064709

 

Glad it's working for you. Check out my 200 numbers, almost eaxctly opposite, or sorta close. what rpm did you come on at? that's prob the difference?
Robert

 

hey man hows it going. i have the window switch set at 3k but it looks to me that its not coming on until about 3200. my tuner said it looks like the plate comes on a bit soft off the hit as oppossed to a nozzle or direct port. which is ok with me as im still shifting gears.

 

With this much tq we want it a little softer down low, lol. Mine was sprayed around there also, IIRC. I will be moving some of the hit into the 2nd stage to help control my tq as the IRS can't handle that much tq when i hook. it looks like you have at least 600tq in a linear curve and that's going to make for fast car for certain. I would be carefull with to much timing and those numbers, just be safe.

 

right now we have it at 20 on the n20. 24 n/a. on the dyno it made 0 knock and sounded very clean. we are going to take it for a ride on the street and do a 4th gear pull and data log it to make sure it remains that way with a load on it before i start trying to take it down a track though.

 

Looks like the a/f is still rich too, careful running it too rich you can lift the ringlands just as easy as you can melt something from it being too lean.

Good pwr gain though, your timing is about as high as I'd go unless you're running good fuel, like the torco 118nos, C16 or c23 If you're on a fuel like that you're probably safe, if this is a pump gas setup, you're in the danger zone IMO.

 

im running c16 in the standalone fuel cell and 93 octane in the tank.

 

Congrats on the #'s

-Chris

 

I would highly reccommend ditching the 93 in the main tank.

For the cost of putting good fuel in the car, I wouldn't take a chance of having some shitty pump gas possibly take something out.

If it's a race only car, and you have say a 2 gallon cell in the nose you can ditch the stock tank completely, and save yourself about 50 lbs by the time you're done, just run the nitrous system and the EFI off the same tank.

 

i agree, when youre spraying to over 700rwhp protect your investment by investing in some good gas! and leaning that thing out. I'd pull a few degrees while youre at it too, lol.

I learned the hard way

 

Ls2 what jets is the 200 shot in that plate?

 

LS2 bait.. Great numbers...

I have to ask. What lenth lines are you using feeding our plate.. I done a vette install for vette magazine and we seen the same results with the rich spike with our plate using the two ft hoses. On most applications the airfuel hits good and steady which proves our plate is the best solution for making HP with out flow restrictions on the fuel side of the plate...

However I am still stumped by the fuel rich spike on the vette. The tunner said it was something in the torque management or convertser. Something like that.lol BUt now I see it on yours as well so I have to ask..

As for over all airfuel. I personally like the 11.5 to 11.8. With this tune up you have aenough area that if cool night air hit the car and it burned alittle leaner it would not hurt anything...

Every application is different but on most of the cars we tune we start off about 18 degrees totle timming on a 200 shot. There is not alot of power to be made VS the risk of running to much timming.. Watching for Knowck retart can be misleading. The best way to tune it in is to read the plugs. If you look inside the plug at the porcylin you can see if there are early signs of detonation. This would show by having tiny silver specs on the porcylin. This can be seen with a spark plug reader..

It looks like the system made the exact power it is rated to do. I would be very happy with that..

Please send some pics over for our customer page.
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/customerCars/help.asp

Thanks
Dave

 

i ended up with a 35 fuel and 78 n20. fuel presure in the tank is 45 psi. this is a street car, this setup is actually not intended for a race setup but just a little something i wanted for insurance. i will make some track passes with it but i only go 3-4 times a yr.

and dave the plate is hardlined with about 11.5" on the fuel side and 16 on the n2o side. we had started at 16* and ended up leaving it at 20* when we were done. and i forgot to mention but this was done with bottle pressure between 920-930 also. so i have a little room there to get the pressure up a bit and lean it out a little more there also.

 

holy **** a 35 nitrous and a 78 fuel, jesus I have mine jetted a little rich (63 nitrous 43 fuel) and I'm running it off the rail not a standalone, so the fuel pressure is probably mroe like 55 psi.

I'd make a track run with a fresh set of plugs and get a read on them, with the jetting you're running I dunno how it's not leaner then that.

 

How much more power did it make going from 16 to 20* of timing?

going from 920 psi in the bottle to 1000 psi wont dont much at all to the tune up. The lower you start the run (i run mine at 950) the less bottle drop you will see on the big end.

 

Your tune is rich

You need the 78N jet also

 

BTW.... 78N jet is more than 200

A Nitrous jet size of .078" or 1.9812mm should produce:
274.76 HP with 1 port(s)

Actual HP to the wheels: 233.55 HP

 

I don't think the Nos plate will flow that much.

Nevermind that I don't want to trust a plate to distribute that much.

 

19th I'm gonna play around a little, and try to fix that