HolyShiznit

iTrader: (11)

Yep! Idles so mean.

*02WS6TURK*

iTrader: (13)

What set up are you running and what kind power?. NA that is

HolyShiznit

iTrader: (11)

Aint nobody got time for a slow NA car. Mine has a 75mm altitude compensator.

*02WS6TURK*

iTrader: (13)

I figured that was the case.

HolyShiznit

iTrader: (11)

Hahah.

SalvageZ28

iTrader: (4)

Hey my old Auto camaro was good all around it made decent tq and power and it also put a whopping on 95 percent of the cars in our section with a cheap and simple combo:-)

SalvageZ28

iTrader: (4)

You know it:-)

Mikey 97Z M6

iTrader: (37)

I've actually considered that cam for the Tahoe. But, with the high lift and being a daily driver I opted for something a bit less risky and easier on valve springs.

Mike

*02WS6TURK*

iTrader: (13)

I was saying "ouch" because she was talking about doing the polluter cam on a A4 with stock gears & stall.

Amber02ws6

I knew that I would have to get a higher stall but didn't know the gears would need changing with the polluter.

Torquer V3? Isn't that an older design cam?

78_elky

I have some gears from a manual 02 ws6 if that helps you out any? I think they are a bit more aggressive than the auto gears. Let me know.
Jessica

Amber02ws6

I have 3:34's from the factory. I don't know that 3:42's would be enough of an upgrade to be worth it. I'll see if some of the wise ones will chime in here.

Mikey 97Z M6

iTrader: (37)

Yes its an older cam profile. Don't always buy into the hype about newer is better bs. Sometimes an old profile will still get the job done just fine. Its more about the total package and how everything will perform together. I had an old MTI X1 grind in my 387 with self ported cylinder heads. That cam grind has got to be 15 years old but at the time (circa 2009) I was trapping 125-126mph, nearing a 10 sec time slip in a full weight car with a 6 speed and no power adders. The key to going fast is getting all the components to work together efficiently as possible.

Mike

HolyShiznit

iTrader: (11)

3.34's? Autos came in two flavors, 2.73's or 3.23's. Unless I am badly mistaken. Mine had 2.73's and I went to the 6 speed 3.42 ratio.

Amber02ws6

OOPS! I was typing in the dark. 3.23

Amber02ws6

I agree however, I get a lot of comments like "that's old technology" and "that cam has run it's course". That is how I've gone from looking at the MS3 and MS4 to the Polluter and now I'm back to not knowing for sure what to go with. This is what I'm looking to do. Very occasionally my husband will be running the 1/4 at PIR (yes I have heard it all about Woodburn being closer and a better track but you get lots of runs in at PIR without the "Pro Racer" Doucher attitude). Mostly the car will be daily driven to work and on date nights for fun. What I want is a smooth torque band without peaky horsepower. I picked 400whp as the goal with torque coming in somewhere close to that. I also want the lopy idle of a muscle car so it sounds mean when I'm putting through a parking lot. So, all the guys who read this and think "women want everything" you are correct!

Mods as of right now are Lid w/filter, LT's, ORY, SLP LM1, Urethane MM's. The most I want to do, or ask my husband to do is H/C/I. Heads being ported LS6 or something similar and stick with the factory LS6 intake and whatever supporting bolt-ons I haven't gotten to yet.

zlicious94

iTrader: (1)

I would see if you can get a 12 sec time slip with boltons and then upgrade to h/c. Tylerls1 went 12.6 with boltons and thats faster than h/c guys at the track usually. Driver mod rules and its free!! Just my .02

Mikey 97Z M6

iTrader: (37)

I understand your situation. I base my recommendations on actual experience and have been on these boards a long time. I've seen a **** ton of car companies come and go and all of them were a "hot ticket" at some point or another. If I were you I would go into the "dyno" section and hang out reading others experiences and dyno numbers for a couple weeks. Its really hard to argue with other peoples hands on experience and some of the combos you will see are very consistent performers. Try to ignore any setups that have really peaky HP curves. You will be much happier looking for setups that have broad usable torque curves for a daily driver. I'd concentrate on cams with less than 230 degrees duration. Anything more and I think you will not enjoy driving the car much. Honestly a 228r single pattern cam would fit your bill nicely and that cam has been around forever with proven reliability and easy on valvetrain parts. Not saying that is the cam for you, just one that came to mind. I had similar goals as you for my Tahoe build. I chose a cam very similar to the Vengeance VRX4, 228/230 and less than .600" lift. Nothing special, no fancy name, just a proven cam.

Mike

Amber02ws6

I have spent some time with my husband looking at setups that other people have in the dyno and time slip sections. He will point one out to me that has great power and I will say "does it have good lope?", he rolls his eyes and goes on to find something else. lol.

We got a recommendation from Speed Engineering to go with a ss224 or ss228 cam which is probably a lot like the 228r cam that you have suggested. Thank you for spending some time trying to get me in the right place. It's much nicer getting advice from people in the same region as me.

swoop

iTrader: (1)

I have a Comp Cam custom grind 228/235 .614/.621 111+2
T/S stage 2 heads
4k Nitrous converter 4.10 gears

It's a bit rowdy for a daily but I have ran 11.61 @115 with it on motor.

Here's the only video I have of it. It sucks but hope you can somewhat hear it.


Here's another one