Need big catch can for -12an fitting
07-07-2007, 05:31 PM
#3
Thnx for the link
What seperates the oil from the air in that can? It looks like its just a can with two fittings and a breather on top.
I'm looking at one on jegs
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_537854_-1
or the Moroso
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_57836_-1
I need to call Jegs on monday during normal busjiness hours to discuss with a tech the design of the Jegs can. It loooks like a pass thru as well, I want to know what seperates the oil in their can. The Moroso can says its a seperator.
What seperates the oil from the air in that can? It looks like its just a can with two fittings and a breather on top.
I'm looking at one on jegs
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_537854_-1
or the Moroso
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_57836_-1
I need to call Jegs on monday during normal busjiness hours to discuss with a tech the design of the Jegs can. It loooks like a pass thru as well, I want to know what seperates the oil in their can. The Moroso can says its a seperator.
07-07-2007, 06:23 PM
#4
It has a machined swirl pattern, and if ya want a baffle they will add one. catch can, seperator, baffle, swirl they all do about the same, help the motor breath. The one I linked is for big nitrous and boost which both like to push some oil. You don't have to have it plumbed back into your intake, but some fumes may be smelled.
Robert
Robert
07-07-2007, 07:47 PM
#5
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
What seperates the oil from the air in that can? It looks like its just a can with two fittings and a breather on top.
You can easily make one yourself if you wanted.
Mike
07-07-2007, 08:30 PM
#6
I'm trying to copy see5's setup. That billet can looks nice but it's just a little more than I want to spend. The can I have now has a cylinder inside a cylinder and a filter to help with the seperation but it wont support the big fittings. Might go with the jegs can. Its cheapest and doesnt look to bad. I'm pushing a lot of oil thru my 3/8's line to the catch can so hopefull the 3/4 line will allow the air to escape better. Going to run a restricted line back to intake and of course have the filtered vent.
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07-07-2007, 10:06 PM
#9
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
I'm trying to copy see5's setup. That billet can looks nice but it's just a little more than I want to spend. The can I have now has a cylinder inside a cylinder and a filter to help with the seperation but it wont support the big fittings. Might go with the jegs can. Its cheapest and doesnt look to bad. I'm pushing a lot of oil thru my 3/8's line to the catch can so hopefull the 3/4 line will allow the air to escape better. Going to run a restricted line back to intake and of course have the filtered vent.
Robert
07-08-2007, 12:57 AM
#11
The jegs unit is only 75 plus 10 for handling so it will be $85 is my guess. I'll probably go with it Boyce as its already plumbed with my size fitting. Unless yours is the same and you want the $85, then I'll glady take a look at it and pay you instead of Jegs.
Doug I think I paid like $90 for the AMW a few years ago (its red) when they were a spnsor. I'll let it go for $50 sound ok? I'll use it on my rear-end otherwise, it needs a catch can and breather as well as I think about it. But I can get a real small one for like $25 to do the job.
Robert the whole idea of the line going back to the intake was to prevent huffing I thought, or at least thats what I gathered from see5. I've got a tiny line to go back in so I dont think oil will get thru but I might run an inline clear filter to see if anything does travel up the line. I'm really sick of oil in the intake.
I had my billet oil cap drilled an tapped to a -12 an fitting and I'm venting from there. If I still have to much pressure I'll have to look at the drivers side valve cover and add another line from there. I went with Summits new twist-lock fittings and hose. They were about the only ones in the -12 an size and reasonably priced. The hose is NHRA approved.
Doug I think I paid like $90 for the AMW a few years ago (its red) when they were a spnsor. I'll let it go for $50 sound ok? I'll use it on my rear-end otherwise, it needs a catch can and breather as well as I think about it. But I can get a real small one for like $25 to do the job.
Robert the whole idea of the line going back to the intake was to prevent huffing I thought, or at least thats what I gathered from see5. I've got a tiny line to go back in so I dont think oil will get thru but I might run an inline clear filter to see if anything does travel up the line. I'm really sick of oil in the intake.
I had my billet oil cap drilled an tapped to a -12 an fitting and I'm venting from there. If I still have to much pressure I'll have to look at the drivers side valve cover and add another line from there. I went with Summits new twist-lock fittings and hose. They were about the only ones in the -12 an size and reasonably priced. The hose is NHRA approved.
07-08-2007, 10:34 AM
#12
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I use a Moroso can in my blown C4. It uses a 12AN and its cheap.
http://moroso.com/catalog/categorydi...?catcode=13400
http://moroso.com/catalog/categorydi...?catcode=13400
07-08-2007, 10:54 AM
#13
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
The jegs unit is only 75 plus 10 for handling so it will be $85 is my guess. I'll probably go with it Boyce as its already plumbed with my size fitting. Unless yours is the same and you want the $85, then I'll glady take a look at it and pay you instead of Jegs.
Doug I think I paid like $90 for the AMW a few years ago (its red) when they were a spnsor. I'll let it go for $50 sound ok? I'll use it on my rear-end otherwise, it needs a catch can and breather as well as I think about it. But I can get a real small one for like $25 to do the job.
Robert the whole idea of the line going back to the intake was to prevent huffing I thought, or at least thats what I gathered from see5. I've got a tiny line to go back in so I dont think oil will get thru but I might run an inline clear filter to see if anything does travel up the line. I'm really sick of oil in the intake.
I had my billet oil cap drilled an tapped to a -12 an fitting and I'm venting from there. If I still have to much pressure I'll have to look at the drivers side valve cover and add another line from there. I went with Summits new twist-lock fittings and hose. They were about the only ones in the -12 an size and reasonably priced. The hose is NHRA approved.
Doug I think I paid like $90 for the AMW a few years ago (its red) when they were a spnsor. I'll let it go for $50 sound ok? I'll use it on my rear-end otherwise, it needs a catch can and breather as well as I think about it. But I can get a real small one for like $25 to do the job.
Robert the whole idea of the line going back to the intake was to prevent huffing I thought, or at least thats what I gathered from see5. I've got a tiny line to go back in so I dont think oil will get thru but I might run an inline clear filter to see if anything does travel up the line. I'm really sick of oil in the intake.
I had my billet oil cap drilled an tapped to a -12 an fitting and I'm venting from there. If I still have to much pressure I'll have to look at the drivers side valve cover and add another line from there. I went with Summits new twist-lock fittings and hose. They were about the only ones in the -12 an size and reasonably priced. The hose is NHRA approved.
07-08-2007, 12:22 PM
#14
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
The jegs unit is only 75 plus 10 for handling so it will be $85 is my guess. I'll probably go with it Boyce as its already plumbed with my size fitting. Unless yours is the same and you want the $85, then I'll glady take a look at it and pay you instead of Jegs.
Doug I think I paid like $90 for the AMW a few years ago (its red) when they were a spnsor. I'll let it go for $50 sound ok? I'll use it on my rear-end otherwise, it needs a catch can and breather as well as I think about it. But I can get a real small one for like $25 to do the job.
Robert the whole idea of the line going back to the intake was to prevent huffing I thought, or at least thats what I gathered from see5. I've got a tiny line to go back in so I dont think oil will get thru but I might run an inline clear filter to see if anything does travel up the line. I'm really sick of oil in the intake.
I had my billet oil cap drilled an tapped to a -12 an fitting and I'm venting from there. If I still have to much pressure I'll have to look at the drivers side valve cover and add another line from there. I went with Summits new twist-lock fittings and hose. They were about the only ones in the -12 an size and reasonably priced. The hose is NHRA approved.
Doug I think I paid like $90 for the AMW a few years ago (its red) when they were a spnsor. I'll let it go for $50 sound ok? I'll use it on my rear-end otherwise, it needs a catch can and breather as well as I think about it. But I can get a real small one for like $25 to do the job.
Robert the whole idea of the line going back to the intake was to prevent huffing I thought, or at least thats what I gathered from see5. I've got a tiny line to go back in so I dont think oil will get thru but I might run an inline clear filter to see if anything does travel up the line. I'm really sick of oil in the intake.
I had my billet oil cap drilled an tapped to a -12 an fitting and I'm venting from there. If I still have to much pressure I'll have to look at the drivers side valve cover and add another line from there. I went with Summits new twist-lock fittings and hose. They were about the only ones in the -12 an size and reasonably priced. The hose is NHRA approved.
Robert
07-08-2007, 01:37 PM
#15
Yep what I've done was eliminate the pcv altogether. I havent run a line for the drivers side valve cover yet and I'll wait and see how it goes. The pcv was from the valley pan to the intake as I had removed everything else already. I had one line from the passenger side valve cover that went to the TB. It was pushing oil onto my tb blade. SO I'm pluging the valley pan and going to just use the oil cap now to vent all the crankcase pressure. The small restricted line to intake is to let it breath I guess and it supposed to prevent huffing and getting fumes. I'm not convinced the pcv was actually keeping oil from getting to the intake. My ls1 and ls6 intakes and former heads showed plenty of oil getting through so I'm not letting any oil into the system at all for the new heads and intake.
IF I have to I'll run hoses to remote breathers and just vent to atmosphere completely..lol
IF I have to I'll run hoses to remote breathers and just vent to atmosphere completely..lol
I'll need to drill and tap it for the small line to intake
07-13-2007, 09:37 PM
#19
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get someone from the Tacoma area to go down to williams off of south tacoma way, they do have that kind of fittings since they also do tractors & such like that,
I had them build my fuel lines
I had them build my fuel lines