AC With a cam
AC With a cam I have swapped an LS2 from a 2006 GTO into my 78 Malibu I have done some bolt ons, Headers, full exhaust, CAI,SLP underdrive pulley and a Livernois Motorsport stage 2 cam. Specs for the cam are 232 232 duration .595 .595 lift and a 114 lsa, I recently got all the remaining parts to run AC in the car. My major concern is will I be able to run AC in the car with this combo, and as far as tuning goes what areas should I focus on to make this combo work with AC. I am using HP Tuners for all my PCM changes.
Yes, you can run A/C... after tuning it overall, you will need to work the idle tables for A/C to make sure it doesn't pull the idle down too far with the A/C on...
I live in Tampa, Fl. When I tune a car, ask the ower how often they have on the A/C. Most are 85% + of the time that the driver would have it on. I was dyno tuning my two weeks ago, and I made sure the A/C was on and the fans were on high. In the shop with the car running, hit up to 97* on my interior sensor. That's the normal stress level on the car.
So if it's normal for you to drive on the street most of the time with the A/C on, you should tune the car how you drive it.
Yes you will lose a couple RWHP on the dyno number with the A/C on, so you can shut it off before a WOT pull. This will give you an oppertunity to compare scans for knock.
Lately, my car has spent more time on a dyno than on the street. lol
So if it's normal for you to drive on the street most of the time with the A/C on, you should tune the car how you drive it.
Yes you will lose a couple RWHP on the dyno number with the A/C on, so you can shut it off before a WOT pull. This will give you an oppertunity to compare scans for knock.
Lately, my car has spent more time on a dyno than on the street. lol
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no need for a bcm. i did my cousins ls1 in his 33 ford and he got a painless harness or street and performance something like that. it was a cut down harness made for swaps like yours and you use a ecm only no bcm. it has provisions for all accessories
I already have a reworked factory harness from
current performance. The problem is that when I look at the wiring schematic
in alldata for a 2006 gto it looks like the ac signal comes
from the bcm. I was wondering if there is a way I can get the PCM to see
when my ac is commanded on.
current performance. The problem is that when I look at the wiring schematic
in alldata for a 2006 gto it looks like the ac signal comes
from the bcm. I was wondering if there is a way I can get the PCM to see
when my ac is commanded on.
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Verdad Gallardo Registered User
Joined: May 2010
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just a heads up. i checked another e40 pcm model car and i got the same color wire in the the same diagram but it labeled as pin 51 so those number may be something else. i assumed they were the number pin in each row of the plug.
Do you know which of the 3 PCM plugs that is on? How is that wire activated? Does it get tied into the same wire that energizes the compressor clutch? The way my harness is wired from current performance is there is a single blue wire that when 12v is supplied it triggers the ac relay and both fan relays. So I'm going to wire it into the hi/lo pressure switch so the clutch will turn off or cycle if pressure gets too high.
There are settings to disengage the A/C above TPS and RPM
thresholds. The factory settings are liable to suck. But the
A/C, even if on, will probably disengage on the dyno.
I had some trouble with an unstable idle inhibiting A/C, after
my cam swap. I believe I had to either defeat, or massage
some of the Stall Saver stuff to get that settled down. If
your idle is clean then it should not be a problem. I do have
a little bit of "cruise control" still, but not bad. Problem there
is the engine torque model is all bent up at the low end by
any decent cam, and we don't really have access to that.
In turn that messes up the delta airflow for drag torque
estimated by the A/C. You don't want to mess with the A/C
torque because that "is what it is", unaffected by the cam.
Motor torque is the problem. Best you can do is get the idle
lean and tight.
I have noticed my idle is less lumpy and more stable since
I went back from the 160 'stat to the stocker. Food for
thought, if you've done this (worthless, as far as I've seen)
mod.
thresholds. The factory settings are liable to suck. But the
A/C, even if on, will probably disengage on the dyno.
I had some trouble with an unstable idle inhibiting A/C, after
my cam swap. I believe I had to either defeat, or massage
some of the Stall Saver stuff to get that settled down. If
your idle is clean then it should not be a problem. I do have
a little bit of "cruise control" still, but not bad. Problem there
is the engine torque model is all bent up at the low end by
any decent cam, and we don't really have access to that.
In turn that messes up the delta airflow for drag torque
estimated by the A/C. You don't want to mess with the A/C
torque because that "is what it is", unaffected by the cam.
Motor torque is the problem. Best you can do is get the idle
lean and tight.
I have noticed my idle is less lumpy and more stable since
I went back from the 160 'stat to the stocker. Food for
thought, if you've done this (worthless, as far as I've seen)
mod.
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Joined: May 2010
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it doesnt tell me which plug. that pin should provide voltage i assume because its not on my ground diagrams. it should be controled by the pcm theres settings in a tune to turn the ac clutch off at certain rpms so it should do that through that pin. that blue wire isnt what you were suppose to use as activation like a ac on off switch on the dash was it? ac controls would go to a bcm.
The blue wire signals the ac and fan relays the reason why I am going to hook it up to the pressure switch is so if there is a problem with too much pressure the switch will cut power to the clutch as a fail safe.
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Joined: May 2010
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The harness that I hooked up when we put the ls1 in my cousins 33 had all the ac plugs and provisions. Everything was there. We literally routed it and plugged it in and connected the battery. The guy that made it even extended a portion of it so the computer could be put under the dash so you didn’t see it.
