BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Ok guys, I'm not the most knowledgable person in this field. I know the difference between wideband & narrowband, but thats about where it ends. I'm really wanting a good wideband, but I honestly won't be driving around with a laptop hooked up & probably the only time another computer is hook up will be on the dyno for my tune or to trouble shoot something.

I was looking at the LC-1 set-up, but I noticed 2 different versions.

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=149

&

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=210

I'm goin to be running a N/A set-up that will see a nitrous shot under 200 occasionally. Which one of these would be the best for my simple application? What is the real difference between these 2 set-up's if they are both a LC-1??

Sorry for sounding really dumb, but if the first option will work just fine & be accurate, is there really any reason to get the more expensive kit when not goin FI??

ZedMan

As far as I can tell the only difference is the gauge.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Well I have now been reading & hearing the LC-1 is prone to having problems.

Anyone know about this stuff? I have read mixed reviews on it & it's actually making me consider goin the AEM route. That seems like the next best plug-n-play wideband set-up.

ssvolvo

I personally have had 2 widebands.

The first, an FJO with an NTK sensor from a Honda I think, works well even now after 50 thousand miles in the rear of a long tube header ZZ4 engine.
Read: NEVER HAS HAD A SINGLE PROBLEM 5 years.


My current is an Innovate LM1. I keep 3 extra sensors because the sensor itself can be a problem. Even on the OE vehicle it came from which is a VW application. It always seems to need something. I wouldn't buy another one. It's a reasonably priced kit that does the job but has issues.

The FJO is a bit spendy but worht the extra money IMO

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

The LC1 is really hit or miss, I had nothing but problems with mine. Blew the DAC once, the whole unit died a year later. After receiving the second new controller via RMA, I sold it. Picked up a Dynojet Wideband Commander, and it's leaps & bounds better than the LC1 in every aspect. No finicky grounds to mess with, just needs a simple switched 12v & 1 ground. The Dynojet wideband can also do some stand-alone datalogging and can be used as a window switch for nitrous. Wish I would have bought it years ago instead of messing with that Innovate BS for so long.

ZedMan

The NTK is made by NGK, and they also make a simple (and affordable) controller/display for it. It doesn't have near as nice a feature set as the FJO of course. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/product...x.asp?mode=nml

98trans-am

iTrader: (4)

i personnally could not get my lc1 to work right, its really senstive to power and ground.i just switched to a dynojet and its an amazing piece deffinetly not on the cheap side but well worth every penny. you can actually use it to control youre nitrous activation as well. if you really want an lc1 ill sell you mine but its just the base kit no guage pm me if interested.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

I got an LM1 and its ok. I believe it to be accurate when the conditions allow. The sensors last about a year for me. I HATE the connectors.

EHPInc

I have used the the one from fast for my customers and have had great luck. It has tons of features. You can check it out at - http://eleventhhourperformance.com/p...roducts_id=425
Let me know if you have any questions.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

well.... that FJO came with the NTK sensor but ironically, the wideband that NGK/NTK makes actually USES the BOSCH sensor.

You can GET the nicer NGK/NTK sensor (NGK PN 24302) already connectorized for the NGK/NTK powerdex, so I'd imagine that you could reconnector it in other fashions as well. As long as the controllers rely on their own free-air calibration as opposed to cheaper controllers like AEMs budget wideband which rely on the laser-etched calibration resistor, you should be able to use it for other units as well.