Firebird Headlights--ALL COMMENTS/QUESTIONS REGARDING HEADLIGHTS GO IN HERE
#981
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I have a 2000 trans am that has driving light problems. While driving my headlights will go out after a click sound as if a circuit breaker is triped but after 1-5 minutes the lights will come back on.
Anyone have any ideas? Is the circuit breaker made into the switch for the lights?
All help will be appreciated greatly (can't drive at night till I fix the lights)!
Anyone have any ideas? Is the circuit breaker made into the switch for the lights?
All help will be appreciated greatly (can't drive at night till I fix the lights)!
#982
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Yea both lights go out at the same time as if I am turning them off and after a few minutes they come back on at their own convenience. I am replacing the switch because the wiring diagrams I have shows the circuit breaker in the switch. I dont know where you are talking about a brain being, I havent found any indication other than a circuit breaker. I was not able to find any information on the location of the circuit breaker for the headlights and I hope I am right thinking it will be in the light switch.
#983
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There is a Daytime Running Light brain box behind the radio (upper right) that is part of the headlight circuit. Canadian firebirds have it active and US models are inactive (due to no light sensor). I don't think that's your problem, but if you can't find a fix you might try swapping out that box. Theyre cheap at the junkyard.
#984
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when i turn my lights on they come up just fine but when i turn them off they wont go down. they werent working at all but i changed the pucks out and now im faced with a new problem. a reverse polarity switch maybe??
#986
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Anyone ever thought about painting the pop up headlight housings on the late model birds? I was looking at it the other day and thought the black would look better painted body color.
#987
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Two questions..
1) Almost everytime I turn on my car, my headlights pop up. Sometimes they don't. But this is all without actually turning on my lights. When this happens my dashlights and all other lights are on as well. I didn't hit the switch though. This is hit and miss. It's like every other time perhaps.
2) I need to adjust the headlight covers themselves to line them up with the hood. What am I looking for to adjust them?
1) Almost everytime I turn on my car, my headlights pop up. Sometimes they don't. But this is all without actually turning on my lights. When this happens my dashlights and all other lights are on as well. I didn't hit the switch though. This is hit and miss. It's like every other time perhaps.
2) I need to adjust the headlight covers themselves to line them up with the hood. What am I looking for to adjust them?
#989
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That is probably a problem with the headlight control box, especially if the low beam lights up. Check the connectors on the box for looseness or corrosion. If all is well, try swapping the control box with a friend to see if that cures the problem.
#990
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Two questions..
1) Almost everytime I turn on my car, my headlights pop up. Sometimes they don't. But this is all without actually turning on my lights. When this happens my dashlights and all other lights are on as well. I didn't hit the switch though. This is hit and miss. It's like every other time perhaps.
2) I need to adjust the headlight covers themselves to line them up with the hood. What am I looking for to adjust them?
1) Almost everytime I turn on my car, my headlights pop up. Sometimes they don't. But this is all without actually turning on my lights. When this happens my dashlights and all other lights are on as well. I didn't hit the switch though. This is hit and miss. It's like every other time perhaps.
2) I need to adjust the headlight covers themselves to line them up with the hood. What am I looking for to adjust them?
Replace with a junkyard one if necessary.
The DRL box also controls the automatic headlight function and hatch release safety lock for when the car is driving. There is a wire from this box that goes up to the top of the dash, loops around and goes back. This is were the Canadian birds have their light sensor attached to. When current flow through it the lights stay off, cut this wire and the lights turn on with the ignition. This is because the light sensor creates high resistance if it's dark. If there's light on the sensor it let's power go through easily.
Last edited by JasonWW; 12-27-2010 at 10:05 PM.
#991
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thank you! i will be sure to try that! until now i just use my hight beam to turn it on...
#992
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That's pretty odd. The brain box behind the radio (DRL box) is what can do that. Check it's connectors.
Replace with a junkyard one if necessary.
The DRL box also controls the automatic headlight function and hatch release safety lock for when the car is driving. There is a wire from this box that goes up to the top of the dash, loops around and goes back. This is were the Canadian birds have their light sensor attached to. When current flow through it the lights stay off, cut this wire and the lights turn on with the ignition. This is because the light sensor creates high resistance if it's dark. If there's light on the sensor it let's power go through easily.
Replace with a junkyard one if necessary.
The DRL box also controls the automatic headlight function and hatch release safety lock for when the car is driving. There is a wire from this box that goes up to the top of the dash, loops around and goes back. This is were the Canadian birds have their light sensor attached to. When current flow through it the lights stay off, cut this wire and the lights turn on with the ignition. This is because the light sensor creates high resistance if it's dark. If there's light on the sensor it let's power go through easily.
#995
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Here's my experience with these pop up headlights. 98+ style. The passenger side didn't work. Drivers side did but made a horrible noise. Drivers side stopped working about a week after I bought the car. I then opened both sides up to see what the problems were.
The driver side had what I assume to be a common mistake, 2 actually, performed on it. This mistake I've also seen mentioned in these forums, though NOT listed as a mistake. The bolts holding the motor to the assembly were put in BACKWARDS. This made them stick out towards the actuator arm too far causing the actuator arm to slam against the end of the bolt. Oddly, it must have worked like this for a long time as that was the cause of the horrible clanking noise I would hear when opening and closing the light.
Flipping the 3 bolts around did not fix the immediate problem though. This leads to the second of 3 problems. The actuator arm was installed backwards. I flipped this around to the proper orientation. Ok, motor is now installed properly but won't work.
I popped the plug off and 2 of the 5 pins in the plug, specifically the motor pins, came right out of the plug itself. Not exactly the pins, but the once factory crimped ends that went into the pin that then went into the plug came right out. Replace the plug, drivers side fully functional and as quiet as it was when new.
The passenger side was dead when I bought it. Popped the plug off and guess what... Black filthy grimy water came out. BOTH plug ends were corroded to hell and back. One of the plugs kind of looked ok, but after poking at the pins a bit, the motor pins broke off in the plug, fell apart actually. So don't be fooled by it kind of looking ok. Broken pins, etc. Replaced both plugs and all was good.
Also, the lights on both sides still worked even with the plugs in this state, so don't automatically assume the plug is fine if your lights work but the motors don't.
Lastly, one request. PLEASE do not install the motor bolts backwards. If the end of the bolt comes out on the side of the actuator arm, you've installed them incorrectly. Stuffing washers in there to correct this is not the correct answer. Flip the bolts around. If the arm is in the way, turn the motor by hand till the arm is out of the way and you can easily install them properly. There is ONE bolt, the one closest to the engine, that doesn't seem to be in the way of anything no matter how its installed. So I suppose if you have trouble installing that far back bolt correctly, flip it if need be. The other two need to be installed correctly though.
Oh, and remember, use dielectric grease on your plugs to help waterproof them.
The driver side had what I assume to be a common mistake, 2 actually, performed on it. This mistake I've also seen mentioned in these forums, though NOT listed as a mistake. The bolts holding the motor to the assembly were put in BACKWARDS. This made them stick out towards the actuator arm too far causing the actuator arm to slam against the end of the bolt. Oddly, it must have worked like this for a long time as that was the cause of the horrible clanking noise I would hear when opening and closing the light.
Flipping the 3 bolts around did not fix the immediate problem though. This leads to the second of 3 problems. The actuator arm was installed backwards. I flipped this around to the proper orientation. Ok, motor is now installed properly but won't work.
I popped the plug off and 2 of the 5 pins in the plug, specifically the motor pins, came right out of the plug itself. Not exactly the pins, but the once factory crimped ends that went into the pin that then went into the plug came right out. Replace the plug, drivers side fully functional and as quiet as it was when new.
The passenger side was dead when I bought it. Popped the plug off and guess what... Black filthy grimy water came out. BOTH plug ends were corroded to hell and back. One of the plugs kind of looked ok, but after poking at the pins a bit, the motor pins broke off in the plug, fell apart actually. So don't be fooled by it kind of looking ok. Broken pins, etc. Replaced both plugs and all was good.
Also, the lights on both sides still worked even with the plugs in this state, so don't automatically assume the plug is fine if your lights work but the motors don't.
Lastly, one request. PLEASE do not install the motor bolts backwards. If the end of the bolt comes out on the side of the actuator arm, you've installed them incorrectly. Stuffing washers in there to correct this is not the correct answer. Flip the bolts around. If the arm is in the way, turn the motor by hand till the arm is out of the way and you can easily install them properly. There is ONE bolt, the one closest to the engine, that doesn't seem to be in the way of anything no matter how its installed. So I suppose if you have trouble installing that far back bolt correctly, flip it if need be. The other two need to be installed correctly though.
Oh, and remember, use dielectric grease on your plugs to help waterproof them.
#996
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Have you guys ever heard of this?
Saturday night was driving home. Found out my passenger headlight was still down, so I pulled over and cranked it up manually I have had a lot of problems with these headlight motors. Went to put gas in it and the both went down and both with back up. Got it home and the passenger headlight was stuck up I can not manually crank it down. The dumpers are still on the bracket and the passenger side headlight and high beam will not power on. And the daytime running light on the drivers side does not work only the running and both filmants are fine and replaced that bulb.
Saturday night was driving home. Found out my passenger headlight was still down, so I pulled over and cranked it up manually I have had a lot of problems with these headlight motors. Went to put gas in it and the both went down and both with back up. Got it home and the passenger headlight was stuck up I can not manually crank it down. The dumpers are still on the bracket and the passenger side headlight and high beam will not power on. And the daytime running light on the drivers side does not work only the running and both filmants are fine and replaced that bulb.
#999
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My bird has a really odd problem with the lights. No mechanical problems; but rather a fitment problem. 4 years ago she was hit on the passenger side. New front fascia, fender, and headlamp (lid and all). When it was reinstalled it appears that they used the stock fitments and that the core support has no damage. However..
As you can see that lamp sits high when deployed and before my adjusting the eyelid and lamp itself it actually sat canted up when closed. Am I looking at a bent core support bracket or is there some sort of stop that I can adjust on the motor's arm to cause the lamp to align properly. That lamp is aiming at least 6 inches high or more and I'm almost positive it's blinding some people on the road.
It was hit before my ownership so I don't know what was replaced. These are just a few pics I took to get a general idea of what I'm dealing with. I can also get more shots since the snow has her parked and if I take apart the assembly I won't lose sleep over it.
Drivers POV: http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/IMAG0127.jpg
Both from the front: http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/IMAG0128.jpg
This one is properly aligned and was never damaged: http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/IMAG0129.jpg
This is the repair side: http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/IMAG0130.jpg
Deployed, OK side: http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/IMAG0131.jpg
Deployed, Bad side: http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/IMAG0132.jpg
Closed, Bad side: http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/IMAG0133.jpg
I'm assuming washers would be my best bet in adjusting the bracket but if there's just some bolt in that arm that I can tweak to lower the stop I'd rather do that. I want this thing to be presentable too at shows so it will be visible..
For the record, the owner wasn't at fault. Some teabagger kid hit him. He just never drove it and never got around to properly realigning them. His toy, my 'joy' so to speak.
As you can see that lamp sits high when deployed and before my adjusting the eyelid and lamp itself it actually sat canted up when closed. Am I looking at a bent core support bracket or is there some sort of stop that I can adjust on the motor's arm to cause the lamp to align properly. That lamp is aiming at least 6 inches high or more and I'm almost positive it's blinding some people on the road.
It was hit before my ownership so I don't know what was replaced. These are just a few pics I took to get a general idea of what I'm dealing with. I can also get more shots since the snow has her parked and if I take apart the assembly I won't lose sleep over it.
Drivers POV: http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/IMAG0127.jpg
Both from the front: http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/IMAG0128.jpg
This one is properly aligned and was never damaged: http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/IMAG0129.jpg
This is the repair side: http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/IMAG0130.jpg
Deployed, OK side: http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/IMAG0131.jpg
Deployed, Bad side: http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/IMAG0132.jpg
Closed, Bad side: http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/IMAG0133.jpg
I'm assuming washers would be my best bet in adjusting the bracket but if there's just some bolt in that arm that I can tweak to lower the stop I'd rather do that. I want this thing to be presentable too at shows so it will be visible..
For the record, the owner wasn't at fault. Some teabagger kid hit him. He just never drove it and never got around to properly realigning them. His toy, my 'joy' so to speak.
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#1000
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Replaced the gears and both headlights work great except for the Drivers side. For some reason the "arm" keeps getting hung up and is making the headlight malfunction. I'm sure it has something to do with where the headlight is (open or closed) when you re-attach the arm but I've taken it apart several times now and something is just not right. I would appreciate any suggestions.