FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I bought a car and am going to pick it up........


https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicle-c...rano-more.html

I am gonna auto X and HPDE this car, what else does it need besides:

C6 front brakes and brake lines

Frame Connectors

Torque arm taken off trans and put on crossbar


I want a rollbar/harness bar....NOT a bar with front down bars. I also want access to the back seat. I already have a car I have to climb in and out of, dont want another one.


Will Trans Am seats fill the bill for now?

I have AutoX a good bit and done a few HPDE's in rent a cars......so I am not TOTALLY green

A buddy is almost at the instructor level in HPDE and he MELTED his C6 brakes at Road Atlanta in his 450 rwhp 4th Gen.....how do you prevent that?

Thanks Guys.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Nice find ...

By access, you mean allowing someone to sit back there? That's just not possible and have a bar for your harness that allows the harness to attach properly.

C6 brakes will require a wheel upgrade to 18s, won't it? So you will going to tracks like Barber and RA, right? I suggest a set of Alan Blaine brake ducts. They are rotor sized specific, so settle on a rotor and then get the ducts.

I haven't had an issue with a trans mounted torque arm.

Being from the south, I'd get an oil cooler on it.

cookba

iTrader: (10)

I dont think the C6 front brakes and brake lines is necessary. a good set of stock sized rotors with a good compound brake pad should suffice.

I think 6LE sells a harness bar, dont know how safe or "race legal/certified" they are or could be.

The TA seats get good reviews, otherwise your looking at spending a good $$ on Sparco, Recaro seats specifically made for AutoX or HPDE. Kirkey makes a road race/autoX seat as well.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

As stated in a previous post, my buddy MELTED C6 brakes at Road Atlanta and he had brake ducts on the car with a 450rwhp full weight f body.


I will be racing primarily at Barber, Road Atlanta and No Problem Raceway in La. I will also AutoX the car in between HPDE's

Jeff94TA

I only have about 270 rwhp but my C6 setup with Blainefab ducts has been rock solid. I ran Road Atlanta in August and Sebring yesterday with zero problems. If by "melted" you mean the piston boots melted then that's no biggie, I've melted every set of boots I've ever put on the car.

I have an Autopower 4 point bolt in bar in my car and the back seat can remain with it but it is completely useless for passengers. You could throw a bag of groceries back there but that's about it. http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...ory_Code=AP151

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

The pad and the piston were becoming one, they were DAMN hot. He was doing 140mph down the backstretch at Road Atlanta.....driving it in deeeep.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Did you see a red with white stripe 2002 SS there with chrome ZR1's? That was the car.

The pad was GONE.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

funny. 00transram professionally raced his car, with stock LS1 size brakes, no ducting, and never MELTED a single pad.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Did it weigh 3650 lbs?

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

My buddy has C6 brakes with 17 inch SS wheels.

Any sites to explain the oil cooler hookup?

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Brakes to me means calipers and rotors. Doesn't the base C6 have 14" rotors?I can see C6 calipers on C5 rotors under 17s.

Here is just one of numerous discussions about oil cooler configurations on an F-Car and Vette platforms

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...&hl=oil+cooler

For an LS car, I used the LG Motorsports oil cooler adaptor. And the Katech piece looks as good as well.

cookba

iTrader: (10)

if the piston is getting hot in the calipers that's probably not helping keep your brakes cool and fluid from boiled over. Look into the stainless steel pistons from doug rippie.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I have ask ... why is one person having this issue? I don't read about C5 Vettes making stupid power and weighing 3500lbs having these kinds of issues.

I'll be the bad guy and say it sounds to me like the driver cooked the brakes due to technique and not necessity.

Seriously ... it takes a LOT of braking from very high speeds, like at Sebring, to cook brakes like described.

My race car is 3300 lbs and sees triple digits regularly. I have stock F-Car rotors with C5 calipers.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Well his car weighs 3600 lbs, hits 140 mph on the back stretch at Road Atlanta...he drives it in pretty deep on HPDE's.


I just dont want this problem.....I will get C6 setup if I need to.

There is a good deal on here for a C5 conversion I may get.

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

Also, if you're dead set on C6 calipers (which I don't like btw) give a call over to Doug Rippie Motorsports and speak with Randy. They have SS pistons that are a direct replacement for both C5 and C6 calipers. They will greatly reduce temps, though when you start with such a shitty product, it's really just a band-aid..

If you don't have 450 rwhp, you won't be reaching the same speeds as your buddy, and being somewhat green, you won't be braking quite as hard or deep as he. Other words: you won't be melting your pads/pistons/calipers...yet. Get a good brake duct setup, be it Quantum or Blaine (alan is a great guy and great fabricator; I've seen his work first hand).

I spent quite a bit of time with C5 and C6 calipers on track in my 3230 lbs C5 and I bet I brake much harder and deeper than your friend has, and more often as well. After 3 full weekends (including a thurs or fri test day), I spread the calipers. My caliper temps were over 380*F (beyond the temperature at which the alloy in these calipers begin breaking down, ie: literally melting calipers) and my rotor temps were in the 1,425*F range all with poor cooling. The dust boots would be gone after 1 day (i could care less), and I never melted a pad to the piston, be it with stock pistons or the SS pistons. The pistons do burn circles onto the back of the pads, but never "melted" anything other than the calipers themselves

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

Oh, and C6 calipers are a bit beefier than C5 calipers..just an FYI

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

What pads was he running?

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Pads were Ferado 2500's he said.


So a C-5 setup will be ok? I know I wont need them for a while as I will be learning for a good long while...but if I make a boo boo the better brakes may save my hide.

The car has enough suspension to be good for a good long while I would think...or am I wrong?

What do I need to add to the car before I do a trackday/HPDE?

I know its fine for an autoX event.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I talked to him and he said it was, in fact his fault this happened with the brakes.

Any heads up from you guys looking at what I bought for a car as to what it needs to HPDE?

Seats? Do I NEED seats? If so will a Trans Am seat work well with a harness bar and some belts? I know when I get better I will need seats so I am not fighting to stay in the seat....but do I need them right now?

How do I put good belts in the car AND keep the stock belts?

If I DO decide to HPDE it with the stock brakes, what pads, brake lines and fluid do I need?

My Buddy with the red SS, we put a special baffle in his oil pan when we built the engine at my house...do I need that yet? Or do I need to overfill the oil 1/2 a quart for insurance?

Power steering cooler, do I need one? Or a turn one pump or nothing yet?

I know all of you have been down this road...my ears are WIDE open and listening.


I know I ask alot of questions LOL, dont want to make dumb moves if I can avoid them.

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

i didn't look at the car in question, but SS brake lines and good brake fluid would be a great start. If after your first track day you see something on your rotors that looks like it's smeared on there, then get some better pads more suited for track temps. Until then, don't worry about them