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I've got a 02 ws6, stock shocks and lowering springs I have 19inch 9 wheels in front and 20inch 275/30/20 10.5 wheel in back and I have massive wheel hop so I put my stock wheel back on to still see if I have wheel hop and no wheel hop only when I shift from 1st to 2nd but not as bad as the 20s why in my 17? Why do I get massive wheel hop in my 20? Will lca bracket work ? And do I need some new lcas to make this wheel hop go away in the 20s ????? Pls help 😩 This wheel hop is so nasty rattles my whole car, can't even wot it
The larger size rims/tires are more for 'show' and not for 'go'. The distance from the rim to the tires' outside diameter(sidewall size),I'm guessing,plays a lot with traction. When I went from 255/55/16 to 275/40/17(a 1/2" decrease in sidewall size),my wheelhop increased. Relocation brackets and aftermarket shocks solved that problem.
Aftermarket shocks(compared to the OEM Shocks) and LCA relocation brackets should help you but that sidewall on your 20s' doesn't have much flex.
Thanks guys , now I need to buy some lcas and the lca brackets. It feel that the shocks are still good , I hope that will cure it this wheel hop problem I'm having
Thanks guys , now I need to buy some lcas and the lca brackets. It feel that the shocks are still good , I hope that will cure it this wheel hop problem I'm having
The shocks were bad the day the car rolled off the assmebly line, its how they are valved. The factory decarbon shocks are **** at best, i had the same ones you did since i have a ws6. I replaced mine at ~40k miles years ago with koni sports and it was like driving a totally different car, and by far the best mod ive done.
You are on lower stiffer springs when the stock shocks cant even damp the soft stock springs...
What tires do you have on both sets of rear wheels? Unless you're running high dollar Cup tires there's no traction to those rubber bands. And even then, crap suspension trying to keep them loaded is pointless.
Tires, shocks, spring rate, weight on axle + weight transfer, tire pressure and temp, pavement type, and a lot more contribute to wheel hop.
Local high power vette has big wheels on low profile tires. Runs 12s from a dead stop but his rubber bands catch perfectly fine from a roll. His suspension is setup for road course, back roads, and highway useage so that's where it shines. I'll destroy him from a stop light. He'll run circles around me anywhere else.
I have a 97 TA with 135k on it sitting on 275/40/17s. When I dump the clutch or even trim to get a good launch I get such bad wheel hop that my whole car shakes. Also for some reason it chewed my tire up on the passenger side. Only the passenger side gets damaged though... ??? Idk why it's doing this the tires were brand new. Below is a picture of the mayhem
@3rddegreee You might want to start a new thread. Likely the cause of your problem is in a few parts. Your axle is reaching full compression, at least on the passenger side, because the bump stops are fully worn (a common problem).
Additionally, the axle's on these cars are rarely centered from the factory, so the stock panhard bar maybe partly offset to that side to being with, and on compression the arc of travel will pull it even further to the passenger side, allowing the sharp fender lip to cut into the tire.
Thanks for the heads up. I'm still learning the ins and outs of this forum site. And as far as spacers I don't believe so. I'm looking into buying rear shocks and installing them to see if that will take care of it. Also us the tires too wide? But I will definitely investigate what you were saying about the travel to the passenger side. It eats that tire up and only that one but I've seen the black marks it leaves and it's hopping real bad.
@3rddegreee The wheel hop thing is one, performance related, issue. The tire cutting is another safety related one that is strange, given the setup. The wheel hop issue could be worn bushings in the lower control arms, lower control arm angles (is the car lowered?), the torque arm, tire compound and temp, worn shocks. The wheels look like the old SLP Firehawk series that game on that generation, and you have 275/40/17's on them, so the offset and tire size should not be wide enough to cause the cutting issue under normal circumstances.
The car isn't lowered, but the back end squats a lil when I drop my bodyweight in the car so I'm guessing the shocks are pretty well spent. Should I try lca's or shocks first? I like the wheel and tire set up I have because it gives it a nice stance. The travel to the passenger side tire is concerning as you said and is quite frankly stumping me. I'm trying to keep from spending money in the shops seeing as how I just dropped 2k for a new opti install with water pump and timing cover gasket. That being said any suggestions as to which way to go for the wheel hop is highly appreciated. I will drop a pic of the car from the side so you can see the stance and tell me your thoughts.
@3rddegreee I don't want to have you just throw parts and money at the car, though shocks are always a good place to start. Nothing short of just sticking your head under the there and seeing what's going will suffice. Get the rear shocks off, and compress them by hand, they should offer resistance (and there should not be any signs of leaking). Inspect all the usual suspects - meaning LCA bushings. Check the centering of the rear axle. Plenty of threads and videos on it but this is as good as any:
I want a streetable car that I can launch if need be when I see a mustang or something lol. I know my car isn't the fastest around but for some reason when people pull up next to me they wanna do a pull and it's pretty much impossible for me to do at a stand still. I will check the shocks first seeing as how I believe it's a cheaper move than the lca. And also check the alignment for the axle. Thanks for the video and the input so far. It's nice to have people to ask for help on these cars when you need it. I'd like to do some upgrades for some more power as well.
3rddegree - Looks like car is at stock ride height from pictures. Wheel hop like that is likely from bad or worn mounts/ bushings.
Motor mount, Trans mount, or Torque arm bushings.
How many miles on this car??
Start with basic checking of all the mounts #1 hood open see if engine jumps under acceleration. Forward and reverse.
Ok I can check the bushings. Gonna change tranny fluid today so I'll check the tranny mount and see if it's sturdy. I had a 95 z28 that popped tranny mounts with a b&m shift kit. I eventually got a poly mount and that solved that problem. The car has 135k on it.
Ok I can check the bushings. Gonna change tranny fluid today so I'll check the tranny mount and see if it's sturdy. I had a 95 z28 that popped tranny mounts with a b&m shift kit. I eventually got a poly mount and that solved that problem. The car has 135k on it.
@3rddegreee Research the poly transmission mount a bit. Many have flipped back to rubber mounts over the years, because poly has introduced unwanted vibrations.
I switched back OE rubber because the vibrations were bad.
10-21-2016, 04:24 AM
Badddd wheel hop 
