jarediocamaro

I plan on selling my car soon ...

So I don't want to spend too much on the engine because I'll never get my money back.

My engine is currently a 454 early truck motor. All stock except for hooker headers, Performer rpm oval intake, 750 carb. The bottom end looks fine...

I intend to just change the cam and do something with the heads.

Should I get my 049s worked on or get a set of aftermarket assembled heads?

Suggestions and people that want to sell me stuff are welcome!

blk/slvr02ss

iTrader: (21)

I would just do a 3 angle value job,gasket match the intake to get better flow and a nice cam.I recommend the Comp Cam 282/581 solid cam.I put that cam in a 454 smog motor and i could'nt believe the power it gained .

jarediocamaro

I like the idea of a solid flat tappet, but it may detract from resale? Some people have an aversion to the maintanance of solid lifters...

What do you think?

blk/slvr02ss

iTrader: (21)

I never had to them loosen up on me.Just use poly lock nuts on your rockerarms and you will be good.Most people don't drive cars like that every day.My next car after the one i told you about had a 461 BBC in it w/ a 294/595 solid comp cam and i would check them every couple of months and they were right on.

jarediocamaro

COMP Cams
Product Line: COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts
Part Type: Camshafts
Part Number: CCA-11-677-4
Cam Style: Mechanical flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-6,400
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 236
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 242
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 236 int./242 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 274
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 280
Advertised Duration: 274 int./280 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.568 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.578 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.568 int./0.578 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110

Would this be too much for my little low compression guy? What would this want to rev to? Stock but relitively new converter will work?

blk/slvr02ss

iTrader: (21)

No it would'nt be to much for your comp.It would rev to about 5800-6000.A 2200-2400 stall would be fine thats what i had w/ my 454 smog motor in a 68 Camaro and i could do a rolling burnout @ 35mph dropping into low 2.

jarediocamaro

ok I thought of one... an a/c system happened o fall in my hands, and I have power brakes sitting around that I will throw in there as well. Will this be too much cam for a/c and Power brakes?

blk/slvr02ss

iTrader: (21)

Yes,but you can get a vacuum reserve system to help out

MrOverkill

iTrader: (1)

The 049's will work GREAT on the street with some mild port work and a set of 2.19/1.88 valves, and just use a Comp Cams 280 or 292 magnum or its equiv. Dont get sucked into the hype of all the different grinds out there as most are not going to make much difference either direction unless its a race deal or your really trying to zero in on the "perfect" combo.

Stick to the basics and use a simple combo, you'll save money and make plenty of power in the process.

jarediocamaro

instead of taking my heads to the machine shop I bought a set of 049 with the work done for $450. 2.19/1.88 valves. It has dual valve springs good for .630 lift. I know a hydraulic flat tappet with that lift will be way too much. How about this xtreme marine cam?
XM278H
234/244/112
Lift with 1.8 rockers would be - .597/.600

Would this be alright with those springs? I could step up to xm288h but that might be a bit much for my compression ratio that i would guess will be about 8:1? I heard these xtreme marine cams work well in cars and i like the high lift compared to duration and the 112 lobe sep. Any experience with these cams?

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

I just pulled a .618 + rockers intake lift flat tappet roller out of my .060 over 454 with 10.5 compression and loved it even though it would like more compression and it sounds SICK. You could go a little more tame but still have something sick. I drove this car quite a bit. Stall was a 3,800, loved it on the street.
http://cranecams.org/?show=browsePar...tNumber=131311

For about $1,200 you can get some nice factory aluminum heads if you ever want to spend that.

With another track visit my car would have ran 10's on the motor.

I still have my port matched strip dominator intake and a killer street carb and all if you are interested.

Stay away from the marine stuff and get your compression up more if you can, at least 10:1 or something, cams love compression and the 8 will not help anything. I would NEVER run a stock converter with any kind of aftermarket cam.

Remember, if you don't have the complete package it will suck, intake, exhaust, cam, stall, ect ect. Match ann the RPM power bands.

jarediocamaro

Thanks but i got my performer rpm intake and a holley 750 and 850 already. And I have a set of eworked big valve 049s.

I know what your saying and my original plan was to do all that. Stall and bottom end and all. I know this is not a perfect combo by any means but I am selling the car so no sense throwing money away. Im just freshening this motor a little. I will NEVER get the money i spend on the motor back. So my main concern is with my .630 inch lift valve springs how little actual valve lift can I get away with?

I liked the xtreme marine and the 4x4 series cam because of the wider lobe sep as compared to the more common 110. and the high lift compared to duration in comparison with other series. I want wider seperation and less duration to reduce overlap because of my low compression. i know the rumpidy cam with not so amazing performance is pretty lame but...

KCS

iTrader: (20)

You just want to be sure the springs are compatible with the cam, and that involves more than "max lift." You need to make sure that spring pressures are in check and that max lift won't leave the springs too far or too close to coilbind. With those bigass 3/8" stem valves, every little bit is gonna help.

On a hydraulic flat tappet, you usually don't want over 380-400lbs open and coilbind clearance would be perfect at .060". Then, of course, make sure there is plently of retainer-seal clearance (about .060" as well).

blackLS1m6

iTrader: (14)

With only 8.1:1 compression i would go a lot smaller on the cam. Any of the above cams need at least 9.5:1 compression to make power. I personally don't like any flat tappet cams because of the oil that we have today doesn't have enough lubricating properties such as zinc and phosphate. If you do go flat tappet which i suggest since you aren't keeping it, keep the cam in the 22x duration @0.50" range. Don't forget every oil change to add a bottle of Engine assembly lube too, this will help keep the cam from wearing. Which ever cam you go with make sure you get the correct valve springs too.