383 Build Advice..
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Smith, AR
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
383 Build Advice..
Hey all, this is my first post here, although I have used the forums for quite some time.
I have an '88 s10 blazer that I'm intending to build a 383 for...
It is a tbi one-piece rear main seal, block needs to be bored at least .030.
Also, being a two bolt main block, I intend to use Eagle Products Splayed 4-bolt main caps..
Plans include an Eagle 3.750" stroke crank, 6" Scat rods, and Speed Pro forged pistons. I've been gathering info on Brodix's Track 1 heads with a 221cc intake part, 3/4" thick deck, 67cc chambers.
I'm currently undecided on cam and remaining valve train, as well as induction, although I've had my eye on the Edelbrock Victor Jr, as I understand the manifold works well with my head choice and to my surprise have read alot about the manifold being rather street-friendly.
I also plan on up to a 200 shot plate kit.
Goals are to run at least 7's in the eighth mile, on motor. 6's on spray.
Truck will also be four-linked and am still undecided on rear end selection, as well as tire size and gear ratios. Also, will be using a th-350 transmission, thats getting built after the motor is complete.
Will see probably 60% of it's time on the street and 40% track...
Thanks for looking, and any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks guys!!
I have an '88 s10 blazer that I'm intending to build a 383 for...
It is a tbi one-piece rear main seal, block needs to be bored at least .030.
Also, being a two bolt main block, I intend to use Eagle Products Splayed 4-bolt main caps..
Plans include an Eagle 3.750" stroke crank, 6" Scat rods, and Speed Pro forged pistons. I've been gathering info on Brodix's Track 1 heads with a 221cc intake part, 3/4" thick deck, 67cc chambers.
I'm currently undecided on cam and remaining valve train, as well as induction, although I've had my eye on the Edelbrock Victor Jr, as I understand the manifold works well with my head choice and to my surprise have read alot about the manifold being rather street-friendly.
I also plan on up to a 200 shot plate kit.
Goals are to run at least 7's in the eighth mile, on motor. 6's on spray.
Truck will also be four-linked and am still undecided on rear end selection, as well as tire size and gear ratios. Also, will be using a th-350 transmission, thats getting built after the motor is complete.
Will see probably 60% of it's time on the street and 40% track...
Thanks for looking, and any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks guys!!
#2
I wont offer any advice on a camshaft, but I will offer some advice on the intake and heads. I had a friend who had those heasds on a 406 and it was so so...until he had them ported. Man did that thing wake up. I think the out-of-the-box flow numbers are a little weak. As for the Victor Jr, the reason it is semi-streetable is because it has fairly small runners and a small plenum. The flow numbers are not any better than the RPM Air Gap. It really needs porting to come alive. The super victor or Motown would be better...but less streetable. I think 7's in the 1/8th should be no problem. A 236/242 @ .50 roller would get you there with 10:1 compression.
#3
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Smith, AR
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good to hear, I may opt for Brodix's Track 1 heads that are cnc ported and 215 cc ports.
I do believe 7's are a believable goal, as it weighs just a tad over 3000 pounds.
Thanks for your advice...
I do believe 7's are a believable goal, as it weighs just a tad over 3000 pounds.
Thanks for your advice...
#4
Teching In
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Northwest Indiana
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wouldn't buy an Eagle crank. I bought one similiar to the one you plan on getting(mine was a 2 piece main), the snout was stepped up and out of round and apparently a common problem that Eagle won't fix. After talking with a few shops, they recommend Lunati and Callies cranks, but they're both a bit more expensive. If you do go with the Eagle, make sure to have a shop check it or check it yourself. Good luck!
#5
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Smith, AR
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll have to look into that, thought Eagle was a pretty reputable company... I've been waiting for some on advice on cam choice, I'd like to run a hydraulic roller cam, with Lunati retro-fit lifters.
Looking in the Jeg's catalog the Comp Cams hydraulic roller lifters (part # 249-818-16) states that 87- up block requires modification, anyone know what may need to be done?? Lunati's lifters for the same engine has no denotation that it'd require any thing.
The cam I'm looking at is a Comp retro-fit roller, advertised duration is 299/319, rpm range is 2500-6200, and lift is .531/ .517... I'm thinking this would be a good nitrous cam with the longer exhaust duration.
If anyone else has a cam that they think would better suited to what I intend to do I'm all ears.
Thanks for your help guys!
l
Looking in the Jeg's catalog the Comp Cams hydraulic roller lifters (part # 249-818-16) states that 87- up block requires modification, anyone know what may need to be done?? Lunati's lifters for the same engine has no denotation that it'd require any thing.
The cam I'm looking at is a Comp retro-fit roller, advertised duration is 299/319, rpm range is 2500-6200, and lift is .531/ .517... I'm thinking this would be a good nitrous cam with the longer exhaust duration.
If anyone else has a cam that they think would better suited to what I intend to do I'm all ears.
Thanks for your help guys!
l
#6
Teching In
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Northwest Indiana
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did too, that's why I bought one. They're ok for a budget crank, but after balancing and all the trouble I went through with buying it; I should have just bought the whole assembly already balanced through another company.
#7
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Smith, AR
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, I don't think I'm needing a forged crank, not looking to turn more than 65-6700 rpm, I'll look into Callies and Lunati, anyone have any experience with Scat?
Trending Topics
#8
Compression in the 10.5-11.5:1 range? I had great success with the XR292 Cam, Super Victor Intake, and Dart 230cc heads.. 7.0's in the 1/8th with 1/4 mile nitrous gearing. 6.30's on the hose(200 hit). The cam drives nice, idled all day at cruises. I put about 3000 miles on it with a powerglide and 4500 stall. also tried a 3000 and a 5000 stall. The 4500 worked best on motor and hose actually. 9.85 @ 140 on the hose, 11.05 @ 127.7mph on motor,. 3450lbs camaro.
Goodluck!
edit.. I have eagle 4340 crank and rods.. Also shifted the XR292 at 7000 rpm.,. Did it need 7000? Maybe, maybe not.. it felt right to me, never dyno'd it..
Goodluck!
edit.. I have eagle 4340 crank and rods.. Also shifted the XR292 at 7000 rpm.,. Did it need 7000? Maybe, maybe not.. it felt right to me, never dyno'd it..
#9
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Smith, AR
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
AutoRoc, compression will prolly be 11:1, or 11.5:1. What heads exactly do you have? IIRC, lots of Dart heads are 230cc, ie Iron Eagles, Pro 1's and so on...
I'm starting on my bottom end here in a couple of weeks, ordering parts and getting machine work done...
Guys, I really appreciate your help.
Thanks y'all!!
I'm starting on my bottom end here in a couple of weeks, ordering parts and getting machine work done...
Guys, I really appreciate your help.
Thanks y'all!!
#10
I'd get a forged rotating assembly for reliability, its not that much more money. If your block is all ready set up for HYD. roller then you wont need the retro fit lifters, you can get drop ins. You should look at Dart 200cc pro 1, or AFR 195 heads. 230cc head is way to big for a hyd roller 383, and you wont be happy with it. You can give me a call anytime, we do a lot of setups like what your looking for, and can at least point you in the right direction.
#11
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Smith, AR
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The block has the ****(unsure of what its proper name is) in the lifter valley as I understand all 87-up blocks do... I wasn't lucky enough to get a roller block, so I would still need the retro-fit lifters..
I'm still leaning towards the 215cc Track 1 heads, I've read absolutely nothing but good things about them, even with hydraulic flat-tappet 355's!!
Corey, I'll be looking to give you a call here when I get some free time..
Thanks again fellas!
I'm still leaning towards the 215cc Track 1 heads, I've read absolutely nothing but good things about them, even with hydraulic flat-tappet 355's!!
Corey, I'll be looking to give you a call here when I get some free time..
Thanks again fellas!
#12
Oh, I ran the Dart Pro 1 aluminum heads but the Dart iron 230cc heads have the same ports I believe.. The "Platinum" iron heads might even have a better upgraded design..
Track 1's are comparable to the Darts. Both can be ported to make well over 700hp if you ever wanted to make big power and work well out of the box. No reason why they can't make 600+ hp right out of the box.
AFR Eliminators don't dissapoint either, similar price range.
I don't think 220-230cc heads are too big for a 383. Different engine but look at the LS engines. NOBODY stays with a head under 225cc these days.
Don't be afraid of a solid roller on the street. Other than checking lash to be safe, I never had rockers actually NEED to be re-adjusted.
Track 1's are comparable to the Darts. Both can be ported to make well over 700hp if you ever wanted to make big power and work well out of the box. No reason why they can't make 600+ hp right out of the box.
AFR Eliminators don't dissapoint either, similar price range.
I don't think 220-230cc heads are too big for a 383. Different engine but look at the LS engines. NOBODY stays with a head under 225cc these days.
Don't be afraid of a solid roller on the street. Other than checking lash to be safe, I never had rockers actually NEED to be re-adjusted.
#13
Teching In
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Medicine Hat, AB, Canada
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Have you bought the Eagle crank yet?? If not, don't. Check this link out first.
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7903
Not only did the cast Eagle crank break on this guy (and others have had the same problem), Eagle didn't do a very good job of trying to make it right either. Just something to consider.
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7903
Not only did the cast Eagle crank break on this guy (and others have had the same problem), Eagle didn't do a very good job of trying to make it right either. Just something to consider.