brake line help
#1
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From: Central Valley
brake line help
i'm puttin the rear brake lines back in (if i would've known how much of a pain in the *** this would've been i wouldn't have disconnected them in the first place) and no matter how tight i put the screw in the fitting it wont stop leaking out is there supposed to be a rubber O ring or something? both fittings still have the brass fittings and they look good
#3
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From: Central Valley
it's the part of the line that feeds right up to the caliper so if you take a 13mm and undo it from the back side it'll just hang and drip out since it's the feed line. so pull those off and buy new ones? well i need more brake fluid so i'll pick up more of those
#4
All the fittings back there are flared - it is the face of the flare itself that makes the seal. You will need to inspect the flare itself to make sure it isn't damaged, and then the fitting that it seals against. If it is the flare itself, you'll probably need to cut it off and reflare the line (I think they are metric bubble flares). If it is the fitting, replace it.
The threads have nothing to do with the seal, and there should be no o-rings.
The threads have nothing to do with the seal, and there should be no o-rings.
#5
Just read Mitch's reply - are we talking about the banjo bolt that screws in to the caliper itself (that requires new crush washers every time it is loosened), or the flex/hard lines?
#7
You shouldn't have to buy new lines. It sounds more like the old crush seals are stuck to the banjo fitting.
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#8
#11
Yessir ... need crush seals.
Either you don;t have any or the old ones are stuck to the banjo fitting (the brass colored block).
The bolt is a banjo bolt ... has a hole drilled in the end and just above the threads so that the fluid can flow.
Like said above, a new crush seal on either side of the banjo fitting will solve your problem.
Either you don;t have any or the old ones are stuck to the banjo fitting (the brass colored block).
The bolt is a banjo bolt ... has a hole drilled in the end and just above the threads so that the fluid can flow.
Like said above, a new crush seal on either side of the banjo fitting will solve your problem.
#12
What you are showing is the banjo bolt - you need a new copper crush washer under the head of that bolt, and another one between that fitting and the caliper itself. DO NOT go crazy tightening that bolt - you just need it tight enough to crush the washers - if you strip the threads in the caliper, you will be pissed, and will get to learn how to heli-coil in a big damn hurry. That's AFTER you realize that the heli-coil kit for that thread pitch isn't stocked by anyone locally.
#15
Copper crush washers? Just go find the Help! line of stuff at your local auto parts store - they will typically have a box of assorted sizes. You need 2 - 10mm crush washers per caliper.
#18
Don't get me started - one time when looking for the banjo bolt itself, I figured "Meh...Auto Zone should have one." One of their employees came up to me, and I told them exactly what I was looking for: a banjo bolt. She promptly took me to the rack with all the assorted nuts, bolts and washers. I asked, "This is where you keep banjo bolts too?" With confidence, she replied "Any bolts we carry are right here." I have a feeling she didn't know what a banjo bolt even was. The other guys behind the counter were just as clueless.