how to CORRECTLY set pinion angle?
how to CORRECTLY set pinion angle? im getting confused here. MADMAN says the driveshaft angle and angle of the motor are not important. BMRs video says it is. whats going on here? are they 2 different methods to the same end result? maybe BMR, UMI, MADMAN, etc can poke their head in here and shed some light
im getting confused here. MADMAN says the driveshaft angle and angle of the motor are not important. BMRs video says it is. whats going on here? are they 2 different methods to the same end result? maybe BMR, UMI, MADMAN, etc can poke their head in here and shed some light
so what would be the problem with just pointing the pinion 2 degrees down and going from there? what would be the point in taking the driveshaft angle into account?
if your ground isnt exactly level.. then just doing driveshaft angle would be wrong...
its a combo of driveshaft angle and rear angle that = your pinion angle
i think it would matter.. the angles of the suspension imo would help to determine proper alignment and i have heard the a 2 degree angle gives you more bite.
and the angle on the lower control arms matter as well.
and the angle on the lower control arms matter as well.
This is the way I learned to properly set up any shaft with 2 u-joints, having both joints at the same angle makes the least vibration and wear on the joints. The angles should be no less then .5 degree and no more than 2 degrees.
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The idea of pinion angle is once the car is under acceleration the Pinion U-joint is straight with the driveshaft and is why you need to factor in your suspension. You want a 2 degree difference in most setups. You want to make it once the slack is out and the suspension is flexed its a straight shot to the pinion.
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Verdad Gallardo If the driveshaft is 2 degrees down and the pinion is 0, it works.
If you simply adjust the pinion to two degrees (without measuring the driveshaft angle) you are essentially using the ground as your point of reference instead of the driveshaft...
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 732
Likes: 0
From: Miles City Mt
The term "pinion angle" has become the popular description lately but it's really "driveline angle" at the pinion that we are concerned about. The angle you are seeking is a 2 degree "difference" between the driveshaft and the pinion in such a way that the two form a "V".
If you simply adjust the pinion to two degrees (without measuring the driveshaft angle) you are essentially using the ground as your point of reference instead of the driveshaft...
If you simply adjust the pinion to two degrees (without measuring the driveshaft angle) you are essentially using the ground as your point of reference instead of the driveshaft...
You need to keep in mind there are two angles that
matter to two different things.
Pinion angle is a proxy for torque arm angle, which you
care about in relation to LCA angle for instant center
and hooking on launch.
Pinion angle is also one half of driveline angle, which you
care about for U-joint wear, driveline vibration, pinion seal
and tailshaft leakage etc.
You can't set the torque arm angle at the back, and have
any useful effect on instant center. You have to get your
bite by adjusting the front end of the arm (or buy one that
has a good angle guess built in).
You don't want to set your pinion angle at the back for
truing up driveline angle, until you know where the front's
wanting to be.
If you are using a factory front torque arm mount, and
messing with the torque arm adjuster screw trying to get
traction, you're fooling yourself.
matter to two different things.
Pinion angle is a proxy for torque arm angle, which you
care about in relation to LCA angle for instant center
and hooking on launch.
Pinion angle is also one half of driveline angle, which you
care about for U-joint wear, driveline vibration, pinion seal
and tailshaft leakage etc.
You can't set the torque arm angle at the back, and have
any useful effect on instant center. You have to get your
bite by adjusting the front end of the arm (or buy one that
has a good angle guess built in).
You don't want to set your pinion angle at the back for
truing up driveline angle, until you know where the front's
wanting to be.
If you are using a factory front torque arm mount, and
messing with the torque arm adjuster screw trying to get
traction, you're fooling yourself.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 732
Likes: 0
From: Miles City Mt
You need to keep in mind there are two angles that
matter to two different things.
Pinion angle is a proxy for torque arm angle, which you
care about in relation to LCA angle for instant center
and hooking on launch.
Pinion angle is also one half of driveline angle, which you
care about for U-joint wear, driveline vibration, pinion seal
and tailshaft leakage etc.
You can't set the torque arm angle at the back, and have
any useful effect on instant center. You have to get your
bite by adjusting the front end of the arm (or buy one that
has a good angle guess built in).
You don't want to set your pinion angle at the back for
truing up driveline angle, until you know where the front's
wanting to be.
If you are using a factory front torque arm mount, and
messing with the torque arm adjuster screw trying to get
traction, you're fooling yourself.
matter to two different things.
Pinion angle is a proxy for torque arm angle, which you
care about in relation to LCA angle for instant center
and hooking on launch.
Pinion angle is also one half of driveline angle, which you
care about for U-joint wear, driveline vibration, pinion seal
and tailshaft leakage etc.
You can't set the torque arm angle at the back, and have
any useful effect on instant center. You have to get your
bite by adjusting the front end of the arm (or buy one that
has a good angle guess built in).
You don't want to set your pinion angle at the back for
truing up driveline angle, until you know where the front's
wanting to be.
If you are using a factory front torque arm mount, and
messing with the torque arm adjuster screw trying to get
traction, you're fooling yourself.
there are good things to be said about a tunnel mount torque arm...
UMI has one that you can change the front angle with a simple bolt move...
benefits are that you can set your pinion angle moderately for daily driving and very quickly change it to aggressive for the track...
the disadvantage of a tunnel mount torque arm is the fact that it is shorter...and if you dont have it set up right... its not going to hook at all...the margin for error is far less than a trans mounted torque arm that is longer
UMI has one that you can change the front angle with a simple bolt move...
benefits are that you can set your pinion angle moderately for daily driving and very quickly change it to aggressive for the track...
the disadvantage of a tunnel mount torque arm is the fact that it is shorter...and if you dont have it set up right... its not going to hook at all...the margin for error is far less than a trans mounted torque arm that is longer
Have a tunnel mount spohn pro series. when i did mine i put the angle finder on the crank pulley then on the flat part of the torque arm where it bolts to the rear end and made those to the same angle (when i'm off a .5 degrees or more i get a vibration at 70 mph) and when i got those two adjusted at the same angle, the driveshaft angle - the rear end angle is around -1.5 so i just left it there... been asking if this is right way of doin it in other threads but no responses... (works for me i guess) OH yea and ninjai_ruken i went down to home depot and bought four 4 inch cement blocks to put under all four tires cause i can't get under either i'm 6'1" 250 lbs, It works great when i have the extra 4 inches 
Last edited by JustAGoat; Aug 10, 2010 at 03:00 PM.
Long story short... When the tq arm set right, you will have no vibration at any speed and you will have better traction capabilities(due to the tq arms stiffer construction). You ought to have reduced, or in my case no, wheel hop.
btw, pinion angle has absolutely nothing to do with suspension or traction. It is strictly drivetrain. If set wrong, you WILL have vibrations.
btw, pinion angle has absolutely nothing to do with suspension or traction. It is strictly drivetrain. If set wrong, you WILL have vibrations.
Last edited by 7camaro7; Aug 11, 2010 at 02:01 AM.
Long story short... When the tq arm set right, you will have no vibration at any speed and you will have better traction capabilities. You ought to have reduced, or in my case no, wheel hop.
btw, pinion angle has absolutely nothing to do with suspension or traction. If set wrong, you WILL have vibrations.
btw, pinion angle has absolutely nothing to do with suspension or traction. If set wrong, you WILL have vibrations.
Here you guys go, read my old post on the topic.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-question.html
Everycar is different. I had a few suspension peices on the car and it loved a -1.5 with a spohn tranny mount arm. Went to a 12 bolt and yank crossmember relocation and I had to run it at about -.5 to get rid of all vibration and it still hooks up. You just gotta find the sweet spot.
I set up a couple ramps in the driveway, jacked up the rear to about level and took measurements from the bottom flat edge of the diff and the DS angle until I got it just right. It took me about 3 or 4 times to get it about right, just went for a quick drive and came back and tweaked.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-question.html
Everycar is different. I had a few suspension peices on the car and it loved a -1.5 with a spohn tranny mount arm. Went to a 12 bolt and yank crossmember relocation and I had to run it at about -.5 to get rid of all vibration and it still hooks up. You just gotta find the sweet spot.
I set up a couple ramps in the driveway, jacked up the rear to about level and took measurements from the bottom flat edge of the diff and the DS angle until I got it just right. It took me about 3 or 4 times to get it about right, just went for a quick drive and came back and tweaked.
12 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,213
Likes: 1
From: Chesapeake va
how do u adjust a tunnel mount TA on the car? I had to put my tunnel mount at the higher bolt hole to clear the driveshaft, had an issue initially and ended up getting a steel v6 shaft cause its thinner, aluminum one was to thick and rubbed on TA when set at lowest bolt hole. I do have vibration at high speeds, thinkin maybe its the TA setting. Oh, and mine is a UMI piece.
I've got to take some pics tonight and post them to make sure I'm getting this correct. I adjusted my UMI tunnel mounted torque arm and now I'm getting bad deceleration/coast vibration.