ElkySS

iTrader: (6)

im getting confused here. MADMAN says the driveshaft angle and angle of the motor are not important. BMRs video says it is. whats going on here? are they 2 different methods to the same end result? maybe BMR, UMI, MADMAN, etc can poke their head in here and shed some light

ls1_camaro_z28

I think the angles do matter. Camaro Performers had a write up about this. Im sure you can read it and see the pictures on the website.

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

We are not concerned with the engine angle we use the drive shaft angle and the rearend angle .........and yes there are about 10,000 different versions of how to set pinion angle

ElkySS

iTrader: (6)

so what would be the problem with just pointing the pinion 2 degrees down and going from there? what would be the point in taking the driveshaft angle into account?

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

you do 2 poinst because then you can set it on any surface....
if your ground isnt exactly level.. then just doing driveshaft angle would be wrong...

its a combo of driveshaft angle and rear angle that = your pinion angle

meine96ws6

iTrader: (4)

i think it would matter.. the angles of the suspension imo would help to determine proper alignment and i have heard the a 2 degree angle gives you more bite.

and the angle on the lower control arms matter as well.

Low N Slow

iTrader: (4)

This is the way I learned to properly set up any shaft with 2 u-joints, having both joints at the same angle makes the least vibration and wear on the joints. The angles should be no less then .5 degree and no more than 2 degrees.

[IMG][/IMG]

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

The idea of pinion angle is once the car is under acceleration the Pinion U-joint is straight with the driveshaft and is why you need to factor in your suspension. You want a 2 degree difference in most setups. You want to make it once the slack is out and the suspension is flexed its a straight shot to the pinion.

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

If the driveshaft is 2 degrees down and the pinion is 0, it works.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

The term "pinion angle" has become the popular description lately but it's really "driveline angle" at the pinion that we are concerned about. The angle you are seeking is a 2 degree "difference" between the driveshaft and the pinion in such a way that the two form a "V".

If you simply adjust the pinion to two degrees (without measuring the driveshaft angle) you are essentially using the ground as your point of reference instead of the driveshaft...

ninjai_ruken

Do you know how hard it is to crawl up underneath a car and read the damn angel gauge with no clearance when you dont have a lift !? Being 6'2 210lbs doesn't help either! lol...I still cant get it set perfect, and a small vibration is still there. Going with new springs that are set for road racing seeing as I have no idea wtf springs are on the car now. And when I get done with that I will replace the u-joints and find access to a lift so I can get everything set perfect.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

You need to keep in mind there are two angles that
matter to two different things.

Pinion angle is a proxy for torque arm angle, which you
care about in relation to LCA angle for instant center
and hooking on launch.

Pinion angle is also one half of driveline angle, which you
care about for U-joint wear, driveline vibration, pinion seal
and tailshaft leakage etc.

You can't set the torque arm angle at the back, and have
any useful effect on instant center. You have to get your
bite by adjusting the front end of the arm (or buy one that
has a good angle guess built in).

You don't want to set your pinion angle at the back for
truing up driveline angle, until you know where the front's
wanting to be.

If you are using a factory front torque arm mount, and
messing with the torque arm adjuster screw trying to get
traction, you're fooling yourself.

ninjai_ruken

Glad I picked up a BMR Torque Arm Relocation Transmission Cross Member! With the BMR Springs (1.25) What bracket holes do you think I should use to mount the front of the TA? I have the LCA Weld in Relocation Brackets Already installed. I might have to mod my exhaust seeing As its in the way of me lowering the front of my TA any farther. I am really trying to set my car up for the curves but still have decent hook up for the strait aways when im in the mood. (Getting rid of full spool)

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

there are good things to be said about a tunnel mount torque arm...
UMI has one that you can change the front angle with a simple bolt move...
benefits are that you can set your pinion angle moderately for daily driving and very quickly change it to aggressive for the track...
the disadvantage of a tunnel mount torque arm is the fact that it is shorter...and if you dont have it set up right... its not going to hook at all...the margin for error is far less than a trans mounted torque arm that is longer

JustAGoat

iTrader: (6)

Have a tunnel mount spohn pro series. when i did mine i put the angle finder on the crank pulley then on the flat part of the torque arm where it bolts to the rear end and made those to the same angle (when i'm off a .5 degrees or more i get a vibration at 70 mph) and when i got those two adjusted at the same angle, the driveshaft angle - the rear end angle is around -1.5 so i just left it there... been asking if this is right way of doin it in other threads but no responses... (works for me i guess) OH yea and ninjai_ruken i went down to home depot and bought four 4 inch cement blocks to put under all four tires cause i can't get under either i'm 6'1" 250 lbs, It works great when i have the extra 4 inches

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

Long story short... When the tq arm set right, you will have no vibration at any speed and you will have better traction capabilities(due to the tq arms stiffer construction). You ought to have reduced, or in my case no, wheel hop.

btw, pinion angle has absolutely nothing to do with suspension or traction. It is strictly drivetrain. If set wrong, you WILL have vibrations.

JustAGoat

iTrader: (6)

So how do you set it Correctly then?? would be the question...

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

Here you guys go, read my old post on the topic.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-question.html


Everycar is different. I had a few suspension peices on the car and it loved a -1.5 with a spohn tranny mount arm. Went to a 12 bolt and yank crossmember relocation and I had to run it at about -.5 to get rid of all vibration and it still hooks up. You just gotta find the sweet spot.

I set up a couple ramps in the driveway, jacked up the rear to about level and took measurements from the bottom flat edge of the diff and the DS angle until I got it just right. It took me about 3 or 4 times to get it about right, just went for a quick drive and came back and tweaked.

gyrene2003

how do u adjust a tunnel mount TA on the car? I had to put my tunnel mount at the higher bolt hole to clear the driveshaft, had an issue initially and ended up getting a steel v6 shaft cause its thinner, aluminum one was to thick and rubbed on TA when set at lowest bolt hole. I do have vibration at high speeds, thinkin maybe its the TA setting. Oh, and mine is a UMI piece.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I've got to take some pics tonight and post them to make sure I'm getting this correct. I adjusted my UMI tunnel mounted torque arm and now I'm getting bad deceleration/coast vibration.