RedVertTA

iTrader: (9)

A lot of aftermarket suspension parts come with grease fittings which makes lubing parts easy. Most of the factory 4th gen fbody parts do not however. Is there a way to add grease fittings to these parts? How would someone go about doing this?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

The only factory suspension part that need grease are the front upper/lower ball-joints and tie-rod ends, nothing else needs grease.
IMO, just use some silicone spray around the pivot points if you have any squeaks.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

No. The parts need to be designed for this in the first place.

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

If you wanted to grease the balljoints you can get a grease gun needle that pokes through the boot.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Not completely true. There are some parts that you can actually drill and tap to add grease fittings on to (tie rod ends, etc.)

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

^^^^^
I agree

just my $0.02' : IF I were going to grease any OE parts I would pry up the side of the rubber boot and inject grease with grease gun or spray can of lithum grease after injuction pry the boot back down in place, I would think if puncher boot would allow water to enter, and I would NEVER DRILL as I think it would be impossible to remove all the metal shaving from joint therefore doing more damage.
Johnny

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

The catch is that you need a pathway for the grease to escape. (Otherwise the part may explode from the pressure.) Many "sealed" parts are designed to keep the grease in - which is problematic. A ball joint with a rubber boot, etc., may be an exception.

Regardless, if one has a sealed part that needs grease, its probably worn to the point that it should be replaced, anyway.

98TAjwh

iTrader: (4)

why not just upgrade to better parts that have grease fittings?

spy2520

iTrader: (3)

Some parts just go bad whether they are sealed or greasable. I can't say 100% that greasable is better.

RedVertTA

iTrader: (9)

Because not everyone has the coin to completely replace their suspension with aftermarket components.

Drilling and tapping fittings would be much cheaper.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Are your parts bad now or are you looking to prevent them wearing out? If you are doing it to prevent, which parts?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Don't waste you time.

FYI, the factory front A-arms (upper & lower) and rear LCA's and PHB; don't need to be greased, and wouldn't benefit from you adding grease zerks to them with the factory bushings.

RedVertTA

iTrader: (9)

Looking to prevent future squeaks and make the job easier in the future.

Then why do aftermarket ones have grease fittings? Why do the factory parts allow this? I'm not challenging what you are saying I'm just trying to understand the nature of how these parts work.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

They're designed to use grease as a friction/wear reducer, so they need them.

"Factory parts allow this".
Are you talking about factory replacement ball-joints?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Great question! The sealed parts can be more expensive than the unsealed ones (which require grease fittings) and they generally won't last as long. The catch is maintenance.

The auto companies will use sealed OEM parts because they don't have to worry about owners maintaining them during the lease/warranty period. (You'll see that many leases now come with free oil service/checks now - so the companies can make sure this happens.) This reduces warranty and early service issues for them and is less expensive for the auto companies in the long run.

RedVertTA

iTrader: (9)

^^^

That answered my question, thank you.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

BTW - I'm not a big fan of sealed parts... because I keep after my car. I just installed greasable door hinges in my car and its like I have a door off of a Lexus. (almost)