stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

i got a few question...

im going to sell my iroc and want to use what ever it is i can from the rear suspension...and just switch everything out.


i know the LCA's and relo brackets and the panhard bar will work

will the IROC rear swaybar work in the trans am?

also ive got a BMR adjustable torque arm for an auto in the iroc....it looks like it will work on the trans am but im probably wrong...seeing the trans am is an M6...right?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

The rear shocks will also.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

Will it fit? yes. The stock rear sway bars on third gens were bigger than the after market bars recommended for 4th gens though. Stock was 24mm or so on the thirdgen. Not recommended.

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

the sway bar is thicker on my thirdgen vs the 4th.....so thicker is not better?

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

Bigger is not always better. Reminds of a refrain about the 1980's and excess, people often think "if a lot if good, more is better, and too much is just right." Unless you want to go drag race with it, and nothing else, forget it.

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

hmmm....i did not know that.
I guess i'll keep the one that came on the TA.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

From the sticky:

Sway bars: The job of the sway bar is to limit body roll. The rebound resistance of the shock will control how fast a car can roll in a turn, the sway bars control how far a car can roll in a corner (they get some help from the springs with this, but it is primarily limited by the sway bars). They also control how the weight is distributed when a car is turning a corner. A stiffer bar will transfer more weight on that end of the chassis to the tire contact patches. If you transfer too much, you can cause that end of the vehicle to lose traction before the opposite end.

Sway bars and drag racing. For drag use, you want to remove as much weight as you can from the nose, you also want to free up the wheels and tires to extend as easily as possible (to take advantage of the low rate springs and the drag shocks reduced rebound damping to lift the nose). So, most guys take the sway bar off of the front of the car for serious drag use. This eliminates several pounds of weight, and the extra resistance of having to overcome the grip of the bushings that hold the sway bar to the frame. On the rear of the car, you will often find a 25mm "drag bar" or even larger than that. The rear bar helps keep the axle square and level under the chassis during the launch. It reduces the tendency of the right rear of the chassis to be pulled down over the wheel and can help the car to launch straight. An airbag can be employed in the right rear spring to help level the car during launches as well.

For handling, we want the sway bars to keep the car level in turns and we adjust their sizes to balance the chassis so that the car is neutral (one end doesn't slide before the other). When the front of the chassis rolls in a turn, the outside front tire loses camber (it rolls onto the outside edge of the tread). When a tire is not sitting flat, or close to it, on the ground, you are losing grip. By installing a 35mm front bar, we are limiting the amount of body roll in the front of the car and helping to keep that tire closer to flat on the ground. This helps keep the tire working effectively in corners and can lead to a great increase in front grip. However, the added weight and "stiction" of the poly bushings used on such a bar will limit the speed that the wheels can extend (like you'd want for drag use). For handling, this is not much of an issue and the positives far outweigh the negatives. In the rear, we want enough bar to balance the front. This is very often a 19mm solid, a 21mm solid or a 22mm hollow bar on a 4th gen, 3rd gens will often be similar. The 25mm rear bars are just too big for most handling applications and can cause the back of the car to slide long before the front, this will limit total grip. If you always have to drive below the limits of one end of the car, the package isn't balanced.

Note: Sway bars actually have little impact on ride quality in most situations.

vjo90rs8

iTrader: (9)

LCAs, panhard bar, relocation brackets, rear sway bar, torque arm, shocks, and springs will all swap from the 3rd gen to 4th gen. Not all thirdgens came with 24mm rear sway bar only later model 1LEs and WS6s. Your IROC may have a 21mm solid rear bar which would be ideal if paired with a 35mm solid or hollow front bar. My old 90 RS (5.0 TBI) had an 18mm rear sway bar.

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

I tried to measure the sway bar and i used an adjustable wrench and then measured it and it comes out to just a tad or right at 7/8th which equates to between 21 and 22mm. SO i must have the 21mm bar. SO if i do have the 21mm bar...switch it?????

I dont know what front my TA has.

oh and i have a TA Girdle also that will be going on the 4th gen.

I cant wait to get started on the TA....once i sell the IROC i'll be using the money on the TA



my BMR adjustable torque arm for my AUTO..will work for my M6 in the trans am?

(EDIT) i just pulled up BMR's website and oh hell yeah the torque arm will switch over so im in business.
Im taking the 4th gen BORLA also


if so, im taking all that stuf off the iroc and replace it back with what i take from the trans am and sell the IROC and let the new owner deal with the car..


im jumping to this side for good! MY TA rides so much better than the 3rd.