AdsoYo

iTrader: (1)

I've been suspicious of this for a long time (years). Whenever I'd look at my car straight on it looked a little lop-sided but it was just subtle enough that I wasn't 100% sure. Now I finally broke out the ruler and confirmed that my passenger side is lower than my drivers side by a whole inch along the entire length of the car measuring to the body panels, not frame. What would cause this? I'd like to have everything nice and even.

ANTICOP RAM AIR

iTrader: (7)

Mine is the same way. It's the suspension. It's just wore out like mine is. Launching makes them twist up more I guess. New rear shocks and springs would fix that.

AdsoYo

iTrader: (1)

Well the KONI's have 3 1/2 years and 35K miles on them so they have a ways to go. The springs are the stock 216K mile springs. Tomorrow I'll measure to the frame and from the top of the wheel to the body.

floodofnoise

I read in a different thread sometime ago that the passenger side sits lower to compensate the weight of the driver. So, when you are sitting in the car it would be even---- ****I have no clue if this is true or not***

My car is also lower on pass side

cemlsx

I have Koni's with 2-3K miles , stock springs with 58K miles and my passenger side sits a tad higher on my vert . Its mostly visible in the rear as there is more of a gap between the tire and fender .. some weird cars we've got ..
anyone know if an adj. phb would help with this ?

AdsoYo

iTrader: (1)

An adjustable panhard bar only works to center the rear end under the body horizontally. It doesn't affect height.

I measured to different spots on the frame and that ended up being about a half inch difference from drivers to passengers side. Maybe the spare tire and battery being on the passenger side of the car is responsible for this? But then you have cemlsx with his passenger side higher so I don't know...

brutalis

iTrader: (3)

Mine, on stock springs and shocks at 90k, is the same way (pass side lower), possibly even worse than yours. I haven't measured to be sure, but it's clearly noticeable. Even looking at the gap from tire to fender, it's pretty clear there's a difference. I have also heard that it is this way to compensate for driver weight, but even with me in the driver seat, a full size passenger behind me, and nobody else in the car (did it just to check for this reason), it's still crooked. I'm hoping that the suspension swap this summer will take care of it, but if anyone else has any suggestions, I'd be glad to hear them.

SKZ28

iTrader: (2)

My car had this problem with stock shocks/springs, and still has this problem with my KYB/Strano setup. The passenger side rear is definitely lower than the driver's side and I'm not sure why. I'm going to remove the spare tire and jack to see if it will make a difference, but I doubt it will matter much.

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

IMO the car leans that direction do to the panhard bar attaching to the passenger side frame rail. All 4th gens lean the same direction.....

The panhard bar has an effect called weight jacking both when the car is going threw a corner and while sitting static.

Have you ever noticed you car likes to turn one direction better then the other? this is do to this jacking effect of the panhard bar pushing up on the body as it is loaded.

The use of a Watts link is an effective solution to resolve this issue...

JD_AMG

I can somewhat vouch for this.
Installed a Fays2 Watts Link recently (thanks Sam Strano!) and the pass. side rear sits almost even with the drivers side rear (much less lean then before) [also I haven't had spare or jack in the car for years]
But this doesn't explain why the pass. side front leans. I don't see a ~40lbs battery making enough of a difference to make it lean. Im thinking it has something to do with suspension geometry, or actual height/length of things like the spindle or control arms. Has any one checked things like this on stock parts drivers side vs pass. side? JasonWW?

AdsoYo

iTrader: (1)

Cool info. I've been eyeballing that Watts Link for a while now. It's a pricey item but from what I've read, worth every penny. The only way to handle any better would be IRS. I'm interested to see if anyone else has info to contribute on this.

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

The height difference in the rear will alter the opposite side ride in the front due to corner weight being altered...

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

OP, you state that the springs on the car are the stock springs with 216k on them....while it is a common thing that the passenger's side sits a bit lower than the driver's side from the factory, 1" seems a bit excessive to me. most people report 1/2" to 3/4", at most.

being that the stock springs have that many miles on them, it is possible that the passenger's side has worn out and settled more than the driver's side.

if you were so inclined to find out, you could swap the side that the springs are on and see if it levels it out any.

otherwise, you could simply try to find a set of low-mileage stock springs from the classifieds, or purchase a set of new lowering springs......although if you do lower the car, keep in mind that it is HIGHLY recommended that you upgrade the shocks so that they can handle the new spring rate, and you will also need to get an alignment done once it is finished, so it can be a fairly pricey option.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

I think you're on to it -- my RS had its passenger side front shock disconnected from the broken mount due to age and potholes, and it was loose for months before that, from what I could tell. My theory is that the shock not doing its job over time wore on the spring on that side, which is now lower with new SLP Bilsteins installed on all fours.

Now I haven't replaced that spring, but probably should be done in pairs, if they're new...

Anyone who had a shock problem on one corner should be suspect of that spring if the problem was driven on for any significant length of time.

Randolph Ziskey

iTrader: (13)

I am installing bilstein hd shocks with eibach springs and eibach sway bars with umi phb and lca with relocation brackets to upgrade the suspension du to my bird being over 10 yrs old. I have only done the rear shocks and springs with phb and it is significantly lower in the rear..the front still has the 4x4 look so it's a very noticeable difference. Will tackle the front this weekend and finish the rear with the lca and relocation brackets. The point is I notice the passengerside is lower only because of the gap on the rear tires from the fender. Looking at it from the rear I can't tell but I did read on one of the threads on ls1tech that gm purposely made the passenger side lower to compensate the weight of the driverside when you sit in it. Dunno how true it is. It is just what I have read researching on this site.

Randolph Ziskey

iTrader: (13)

Real quick if anyone on this site has had experience with the rear sway bar. I installed the rear sway bar and my question is when you line up the bushing with the d clamp on the factory rear end the passenger side bushing seems to out of alignment. What I mean is the top part of the bushing goes to the left and the bottom to the right. Is this normal and if not would it be wise to it inward on to where it lines up? I saw pics on umi's website on the installation section but for a drag sway bar and on that sway bar it looks like the bushings and d rings/clamps are closer to the center of the rear end as oppose to the sock sway bar. Any advice or experiences will help out a lot. One thing I think I can do is wipe of the grease that was provided. Maybe I put too much. Dunno been breaking my head.