joe77

I recently did the motor mounts as I could see the motor torqing a lot, they however have not stopped the car from jumping forward when i put it into gear. i believe the transmission mount is also shot, Im looking to putting a poly one on due to cost, as the stock mount is 167 dollars here plus 13% tax. The motor mounts were replaced with prothanes. if i have both poly mounts will it cause cracking of the transmission case? Are the prothane mounts good, i dont want excessive vibration from the polys messing up the pinion angle. i will later be putting on a adjustable spohn torque arm with a poly bushing. if anyone can share some advice or experience it would be appreciated.

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

It's not going to mess up anything. It is actually better to runn all poly then poly motor mounts and a rubber trans mount. I just ground down the bumps on the bottom of the mount and left off the preload plate and it didn't add hardly any vibration

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You need to figure out what is the actual problem before you just keep wasting money on parts.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I doubt that motor/transmission mounts are causing your problem, however, since even the newest 4th gen cars are now 9 years old, replacing them isn't a bad idea. How is your engine running? Is the idle speed a little higher than normal? Is the transmission fluid level OK? (I assume you have an automatic, since you said "When putting it in gear") You might want to check for drivetrain issues before going too much further.

joe77

Well I get a banging under the center console, under acceleration if its hard I think from the drivetrain binding, Ive been told thats the transmission mount. The motor mounts were shot, the one was completely screwed up, I had my father rev the car in park while i looked at the engine which torqued over a lot, which is why i thought it was the problem, I still think they were partially the problem as it has helped a fair bit since they were replaced. I have a poly prothane mount coming in today so ill see this weekend if that doesnt fix the issue. I checked the torque arm before to see if it looked fine, i dont think its broken, I will check the transmission fluid level again but last time i did it was ok. What should the idle be at? In park mine is around 1000, in drive around 700. i believe there may be some slack in the rear end, as sometimes it feels like it needs to get loaded otherwise i hear a noise when i give it gas. The rear also whines a fair bit, its on the to do list, just getting a nine here will not be cheap. What else could be causing the issue? Ive also been tld the u joint on the driveshaft may be no good? how would i check that?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

700 RPM idle in drive, is in the ball park. In a city the size of Toronto, I would assume that there must be a drive shaft shop, that could pop in a couple of new u-joints, and check the shaft's balance for you....

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

it's extremely easy to see if the trans mount needs to be replaced or not, as long as you can get up under the car, and can jack up the transmission while the mount is removed.

1) jack car up and secure with jack stands
2) jack up a little on the transmission (just enough to keep it from dropping when the trans mount brace is removed)
3) unbolt & remove the trans mount from the trans & brace

once the mount is loose, if you see tearing in the rubber (or if it's completely separated), then it needs to be replaced.

even if it doesn't "need" to be replaced, it's still a good idea if the engine mounts have already been replaced with poly mounts.

joe77

ok well got the poly mountkl, will install it tonight when i get back from work, do i just screw in the threaded rod hand tight? do i need to use loctite? Is there a way to test the u joints to see if they are bad, I rather avoid taking it to a shop to test them. I appreciate the help guys, cant wait to get this car problem free, will be that much more enjoyable to drive.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I don't know of the "threaded rod" you speak of.....the mount is secured to the crossmenber with a bolt, flat washer and lock washer. The mount is attached to the tranny with two bolts and lock washers. If it will make you feel better, blue Locktite can be used, but isn'y really necessary, as long as you have the lock washers in place.

With respect to the u-joints, grasp the d'shaft and try to rotate it, with the car in "park" and with the "e-brake' engaged. There should be a slight amount of rocking, as there is usually some play in the driveshaft yoke/transmission output shaft interface. If there's a lot of slop when you try this, the u-joints are probably bad. Actually, if the car has more that 30-40,000 miles (I don't remember the metric conversion on this), new joints would be a good idea anyway, as the factory pieces, if they're still in there, didn't have grease fittings, and tend to wear quickly.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Yes screw it in, yes use locktite.

Iwannagofast!

iTrader: (2)

Same thing was happening to me, so i spent the 30 bucks or so for a prothane mount... worst thing that could happen is you are out some of your time really. Even if it isnt the problem you know you have a new trans mount. I did notice a good increase in vibration when I first installed it, but it is getting better the more i drive it.

BTW. My problem ended up being the 2 torque arm bolts loose. Took me forever to find that out... I was actually pulling the driveshaft at the time to replace the u-joints.. and a friend of mine was jacking up the rear of the car and I saw the bolts moving around. So def. check the torque arm bolts that go through the rear diff!!!

joe77

havent really looked there, i jacked up the car and the torque arm bushing was maybe slightly loose, the trans mount looked fine, but my y-pipe was loose where it meets the intermediate. i tightened that and stopped some of the banigng but at hard acceleration im getting a bang near the cetner console. I got the mount for the transmission to go on, may just put it on anyways to see if it fixes the problem. I have a spohn torque arm to go on, just have to figure out how to set the pinion angle to put it on.

joe77

transmission mount was broken,changed that to the poly which got rid of the bang, but i still have a clunk when i have slowed down coming to a stop. u joints seem fine.

Iwannagofast!

iTrader: (2)

Same problem I was having. I'm tellin ya man.. check the two torque arm bolts in the back.

joe77

Checked the bolts, that doesnt appear to be the problem, i have had this stupid threaded rod that threads into the prothane mount for the transmission back off a few times causing the issue, after I beat on it. Ive tried blue loctite. Anyone have this issue of the transmission mount bolt loosening itself off?