http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...oductId=755192




i know everyone uses the willwood ones but this looks better

 

anyone??

 

NPT threads? Really?

 

^they are adaptors. Prolly cuts down on tooling cost to make it and/or it was adapted into a prop. valve lol.

 

would this one work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

 

No, that is for older vehicles that you swap disks into the back where there was drums. That is not adjustable.

On a side note that guy is effin retarded. The description says brake fluid eats aluminum. Better warn the OEM's. Last I checked master cylinders, abs blocks, and brake calipers were all aluminum lol.

 

We use wilwood valves on all of our ABS delete kits:

http://sjmmanufacturing.com/cam_brk_ls1.html

If you need help setting up the ABS delete and want to do something custom...different than our standard ABS delete kits, feel free to give us a call.

That product you mentioned is probably a Chinese copy made for Jegs. Stick with American made products. They are generally better quality.

Steve
Engineer
SJM Manufacturing Inc
724-478-5580

 

thanks ive always use the wilwood ones on others cars but i think this one lookes better i love black anodized and its cheaper. I paid 83$ for line lock and PV. picks will be up soon.

SJM yall have good stuff ive installed a few of your kits they are nice. I just wanna try to save some $ and hide the lines and not come over the top. i would love to do it with motor out and really hide it.

 

A quote from that listing -- "The valve is made of brass, so it will last, unlike the many aluminum valves on the market. Brake fluid will destroy aluminum, so a brass valve is the best long term investment for your brake system."

That is 100% complete crap. There are aluminum master cylinder and brake caliper that have been on the road for 30 years without issues with brake fluid. Now, if they are not anodized, all bets are off. But anyone selling non-anodized aluminum parts for brake systems should be in prison. Even Wilwood understands that! The brass unit is completely unnecessary and very heavy for what it is.

Chris

 

IMO these guys make an awesome kit. I bought theirs with the flaring tool and such so I could route in my own way. I bought it because I was having an ABS system that was just not working right after I got new wheels, straightened the problem right out. I think these looks better then that jeg's item. I looks like it belongs there.

Steve,
Since your here.
I just hooked up my line lock button this week after having the kit on the car for 7 months . It's really helping me on my hilly commute now and it's working great.

Here's a pic of it installed and and what i did for the buttons.
(Don't worry all the wires are cover up now lol)

 

Whoa! Where'd you get the panels those buttons are mounted in?

 

I made them out of the stock button housings and some fiberglass. The switch button is just an Autozone button mounted from behind through the hole. Was very tedious to cut lol.

 

im going to do something different. might hide everything behind or under the headlight. dont no yet we will see. maybe something like this as far as where the lines would go



if i had my motor out it would all be hidden under brake booster

 

I don't see a reason to run the rear brake line all the way to the front and then back again. If your going to make the valve hard to access you might as well just run the rear line straight back and put it along the frame rail or next to the fuel filter. For the front line I would say go back and down a little then go through the fender. Then go down with the line and run it along the frame rail to the stock location. There are a few spots to sneak in a line lock along the way where it would be safe or you could swing the line behind the plastic on the back on the wheelwell the run it to the front. That would be a lot less line, I just think adding 4-6ft of line to the front and rear brakes is a bad idea bad.

 

it will only be around like 12" more over factory each line. u can have a reg cab 1.2 ton truck of a 4 door long bed 1/4 ton truck its all the same master and booster just more lines for the longer wheels base