cancam99ss

iTrader: (8)

Going to buy some subframe connectors... Should I get two or three point. Car is a 99 m6 with strut bar, adj lca, adj panhard, stranos. Car is putting about 410 ... What do you think

99SSJarhead

iTrader: (2)

I prefer 3 just for that added bit of security but it really depends on how you are with hard launches and twisting turns.

projectX

iTrader: (51)

Two is plenty unless your goal is EXTREME handling on corners.

CUR4VNM

iTrader: (10)

i have had the two point but to me the three point feel better.

firemech21

iTrader: (9)

3 point is definately stronger, but if your running true dual exhaust they wont fit normally. Thats why I am running 2 point. I would highly suggest that you use weld in because that adds alot of strenght.

ECU_Pirate

iTrader: (5)

Only have experience with UMI 2 point. Initial thoughts were the car felt stiffer and tighter, but that thought would expanded 10 fold with my first drive sans ttops. I'm happy with them.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

Any "subframe connector" that bolts to the rear lca bracket is basically doing nothing but adding weight to the car. If you look at the design of the structure, you will actually notice that the real "subframe" in the rear of the car is located further inboard of the lca bracket, where most manufacturers attach the rear point. These bolt-on things do nothing for your car but maybe protect the pinch weld from being crushed by the kid at the lube joint... more commonly known as a "jacking rail".

Truth of the matter is the lca bracket is plenty strong by itself, and if you truly want to connect the front and rear frame rails together then you need a setup that is designed to weld to them, not bolt to the outer side of the lca bracket and run along the rocker pinch weld, which is already the strongest part of the body.

If you are drag racing, then the two point setup is fine, and if road racing then the thee point maybe the best choice. And any chassis stiffening component that is just bolted on and not welded is pretty much worthless as well. After a short time the holes in the sheetmetal will wear and other things of the like, not to mention the component flex at the attaching point makes the "bolt-in" component not even worth your time.

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

not exactly true....over the long term, maybe....but for the short term, it allows someone to try out SFC's without permanently modifying their car (and allowing them to be removed easily if there is some problem such as exhaust fitment)....and it allows them to be bolted up to the car long enough to drive it to a welder to get them welded in permanently.

bolt-in SFC's may not be the best permanent solution, but they're far from useless.

Dave88LX

I have a set of BMR boxed SFCs that I purchased in ~2004, I have not welded them on yet. Should I get these welded on, or is there something else I should consider instead (namely, UMI 3-point). Don't know if it'd be worth it to sell these and then buy them, taking a loss, or just get the bastards welded in and be done with it.


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License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

Before i bought my set of 3 points from SLP...i spent a lot of time researching and debating wether to go with 2 point or weld or not weld.

I got the 3 point bolt-ins. And all the talk about them not leaving access and in the way of exhaust just came up short. First off if your going to have custom exhuast work done after the install...it will be easy to accomadate just the same way they would work around 2 points.

So all the drawbacks to 3 points are non existent you just get more for your money with 3points.

I respect what the guy from the chassis shop posted. As you can see their is also a firebird catching air at the lights in signature....i am certain that in that scenario you should probably be welded in...and most of what he is saying is very much valid.

But if you are street driving....guess what? the bolt ins ...bolt in and line up exactly in the same freekin places the weld ons do.....your just not welding them up but instead bolting them into very very sturdy spots on the existing frame (front and rear) on these cars.
So bolt ins do have a place...I'll guesstimate if your running 12's or slower bolt ins will play a role. if ur a 9 or 10 machine then you should have already met a good welder who can do you the favor of stick welding the chit out of thos bolt ons in the same place the weld on versions go. They are essentially the same just one has minus bolt on holes.
Now boxed version or tube versions? hahaha....more debating.(<----prob a more valid debate)
1 vote for boxed 3 points here...of whatever is more convenient to you weld or not.

Dave88LX

Which boxed 3-points are you talking about?

UMI's look like they are tubular.




EDIT: Nevermind, I see now, SLP. Theirs are boxed.