People who have cut stock springs please come in
05-08-2012, 07:42 AM
#1
People who have cut stock springs please come in After pulling over 400lbs out of my car it sits goofy high right now, and I can fit 4 fingers between the tire and front fender and 4 fingers and a thumb on the rear.
Keeping that this currently a budget, stock appearance jack-of-all-trades-master-of-none build, I wont drop $250 on lowering springs that will be too low for my Bilsteins and shorten their life span, as well as ruin my 60'.
Currently riding on 99 WS6 springs (which was the last year that WS6s got increased front spring rates) and Bilstein HD shocks, which is plenty stiff for my 3000lb race weight car. I want to take about 1-1.5 inches off just to get the car to sit stock height again which is a little over 1 coil.
How do the springs fit when you cut a coil off since the top coil usually has a smaller space between the second one so it sits flat against the car or strut pocket?
Has anyone been riding on stock cut springs for a long time with no ill effects?
Does anyone have any pictures of their stock cut springs, or car sitting on stock cut springs?
How high from the ground should the fender be on the front and rear on a stock car? I was going to be creepy the other day in a Safeway parking lot and measure a strangers car but decided not to...
Keeping that this currently a budget, stock appearance jack-of-all-trades-master-of-none build, I wont drop $250 on lowering springs that will be too low for my Bilsteins and shorten their life span, as well as ruin my 60'.
Currently riding on 99 WS6 springs (which was the last year that WS6s got increased front spring rates) and Bilstein HD shocks, which is plenty stiff for my 3000lb race weight car. I want to take about 1-1.5 inches off just to get the car to sit stock height again which is a little over 1 coil.
How do the springs fit when you cut a coil off since the top coil usually has a smaller space between the second one so it sits flat against the car or strut pocket?
Has anyone been riding on stock cut springs for a long time with no ill effects?
Does anyone have any pictures of their stock cut springs, or car sitting on stock cut springs?
How high from the ground should the fender be on the front and rear on a stock car? I was going to be creepy the other day in a Safeway parking lot and measure a strangers car but decided not to...
05-08-2012, 07:50 AM
#2
just found this thread,
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...t-springs.html
Still want to know what the stock height to fender is supposed to be
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...t-springs.html
Still want to know what the stock height to fender is supposed to be
05-08-2012, 11:26 AM
#3
I cute my front springs back in 2005 or 2006 and have zero negative side effects. I cut off 1 coil which turned out to be about 1.25" drop. They fit in place fine and ride fine. I highly recommend it.
05-13-2012, 07:11 PM
#6
I just cut 1 coil in the rear and only got about half inch of drop. I know my car is lighter than most but before I cut them, my bilsteins were just about bottomed out at normal ride height, now there is about a half inch of travel in the shocks. Guess I need to cut at least another 1/2 coil to get the full 1.25-1.5 Im after.
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03-16-2013, 06:44 PM
#8
TECH Addict
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any one have done this with a stockish weighted trans am. ive got a rear mounted trubo and my 1.25" vogtlands in the back arent helping th already low turbo 
so i im considering puttin gmy stock springs in but wondering if a half coil out of the stockers will keep it alittle low but give a little more clearance between the drain and turbo itself. the back is the only real issue. the front has alittle more clearance.
so i im considering puttin gmy stock springs in but wondering if a half coil out of the stockers will keep it alittle low but give a little more clearance between the drain and turbo itself. the back is the only real issue. the front has alittle more clearance. 
03-18-2013, 05:54 AM
#9
11-02-2013, 11:50 AM
#10
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Cut springs, HH mod, Bilsteins, etc Let me pre-respond to any sawblade haters, I appreciate your opinion, but this is my car and I like the look. LOL ;->) Also, I need a paint job, in the works, so not real pretty right now, thanks
Springs are cut 1 1/2 front, 1 1/3 rear (yes 1 1/3). What I did was cut the spring ends to align the top and bottom spring ends on all 4 springs. No reason other than I like the symmetry of the coil when cut like this. I am sure there is a reason I should not have done it this way, I am open to any replies for or against. When I installed the rears I faced the cut end to the back of the car. Read somewhere this makes a difference. This is a learning experience, please chime in.
I did the HH mod on the back and installed Bilsteins from the WS6Store all around, and rolled the rear fenders just at the fender apex to deal with a rubbing issue, no issue now. The inside clears with no problem.
The wheels are 17.2x9.5 56mm (that's what they read, 17.2, anybody??) all around, I am running 25mm bolt-on billet aluminum adapters all around. I like the look and no issues so far. The tires are Nitto Motivo 275/40r17, they are a UHP all season tire that the Nitto site rates as a top dry, wet, and wear tire. They also come with a 60,000 mile manufacturer warranty. Bought at Discount tire for $143 each, great value for money.
I also have a Hotchkis dual adjustable panhard in the rear, the rear was about 1/4" off center before adjusted. Although it was not significant, I was surprised how much the panhard made the rear feel more solid, like the rear was following versus being pull by the front end in sharp cornering. I like it.
When I installed the Bilsteins I installed new Moog strut mount pads. One note which many know, this is for those that do not: when you compress the front strut spring with the AutoZone (yes I bought a HB spring compressor, do not do it, was a POS) spring compressor (paid $55 for it, used it, returned it, got a full refund, this is their "tool rental" program) the strut boot in my case would not clear the spring hooks. I had to release the spring tool to remove the boot the first time (yes I did this three different times, did I mention this was a learning experience).
When you reinstall the spring (old, new, cut), place the boot inside the spring as far up as it will go, then place the spring compressor hooks on the spring just below the top of the boot. This will allow you to compress the spring without binding the boot, and allow you to get the boot tight against the rubber strut top mount. There should be no play between the strut boot and the strut mount, you should be able to tighten the top nut and get the boot/mount tight.
I also installed new rotors and pads from BrakeMotive all around, followed the bed-in directions, have about 350 miles, smooth, quiet, even. The price was awesome and the results so far are excellent.
There is more to come, 35mm front sway bar, looking for a used 82-92 21mm to 23mm rear bar, SFC go in next week. I continue to look for ways to get the biggest bang for my buck (I look for value and economy)
All said, I am having too much fun...
Springs are cut 1 1/2 front, 1 1/3 rear (yes 1 1/3). What I did was cut the spring ends to align the top and bottom spring ends on all 4 springs. No reason other than I like the symmetry of the coil when cut like this. I am sure there is a reason I should not have done it this way, I am open to any replies for or against. When I installed the rears I faced the cut end to the back of the car. Read somewhere this makes a difference. This is a learning experience, please chime in.
I did the HH mod on the back and installed Bilsteins from the WS6Store all around, and rolled the rear fenders just at the fender apex to deal with a rubbing issue, no issue now. The inside clears with no problem.
The wheels are 17.2x9.5 56mm (that's what they read, 17.2, anybody??) all around, I am running 25mm bolt-on billet aluminum adapters all around. I like the look and no issues so far. The tires are Nitto Motivo 275/40r17, they are a UHP all season tire that the Nitto site rates as a top dry, wet, and wear tire. They also come with a 60,000 mile manufacturer warranty. Bought at Discount tire for $143 each, great value for money.
I also have a Hotchkis dual adjustable panhard in the rear, the rear was about 1/4" off center before adjusted. Although it was not significant, I was surprised how much the panhard made the rear feel more solid, like the rear was following versus being pull by the front end in sharp cornering. I like it.
When I installed the Bilsteins I installed new Moog strut mount pads. One note which many know, this is for those that do not: when you compress the front strut spring with the AutoZone (yes I bought a HB spring compressor, do not do it, was a POS) spring compressor (paid $55 for it, used it, returned it, got a full refund, this is their "tool rental" program) the strut boot in my case would not clear the spring hooks. I had to release the spring tool to remove the boot the first time (yes I did this three different times, did I mention this was a learning experience).
When you reinstall the spring (old, new, cut), place the boot inside the spring as far up as it will go, then place the spring compressor hooks on the spring just below the top of the boot. This will allow you to compress the spring without binding the boot, and allow you to get the boot tight against the rubber strut top mount. There should be no play between the strut boot and the strut mount, you should be able to tighten the top nut and get the boot/mount tight.
I also installed new rotors and pads from BrakeMotive all around, followed the bed-in directions, have about 350 miles, smooth, quiet, even. The price was awesome and the results so far are excellent.
There is more to come, 35mm front sway bar, looking for a used 82-92 21mm to 23mm rear bar, SFC go in next week. I continue to look for ways to get the biggest bang for my buck (I look for value and economy)
All said, I am having too much fun...
11-03-2013, 01:24 AM
#12
Let me pre-respond to any sawblade haters, I appreciate your opinion, but this is my car and I like the look. LOL ;->) Also, I need a paint job, in the works, so not real pretty right now, thanks
Springs are cut 1 1/2 front, 1 1/3 rear (yes 1 1/3). What I did was cut the spring ends to align the top and bottom spring ends on all 4 springs. No reason other than I like the symmetry of the coil when cut like this. I am sure there is a reason I should not have done it this way, I am open to any replies for or against. When I installed the rears I faced the cut end to the back of the car. Read somewhere this makes a difference. This is a learning experience, please chime in.
I did the HH mod on the back and installed Bilsteins from the WS6Store all around, and rolled the rear fenders just at the fender apex to deal with a rubbing issue, no issue now. The inside clears with no problem.
The wheels are 17.2x9.5 56mm (that's what they read, 17.2, anybody??) all around, I am running 25mm bolt-on billet aluminum adapters all around. I like the look and no issues so far. The tires are Nitto Motivo 275/40r17, they are a UHP all season tire that the Nitto site rates as a top dry, wet, and wear tire. They also come with a 60,000 mile manufacturer warranty. Bought at Discount tire for $143 each, great value for money.
I also have a Hotchkis dual adjustable panhard in the rear, the rear was about 1/4" off center before adjusted. Although it was not significant, I was surprised how much the panhard made the rear feel more solid, like the rear was following versus being pull by the front end in sharp cornering. I like it.
When I installed the Bilsteins I installed new Moog strut mount pads. One note which many know, this is for those that do not: when you compress the front strut spring with the AutoZone (yes I bought a HB spring compressor, do not do it, was a POS) spring compressor (paid $55 for it, used it, returned it, got a full refund, this is their "tool rental" program) the strut boot in my case would not clear the spring hooks. I had to release the spring tool to remove the boot the first time (yes I did this three different times, did I mention this was a learning experience).
When you reinstall the spring (old, new, cut), place the boot inside the spring as far up as it will go, then place the spring compressor hooks on the spring just below the top of the boot. This will allow you to compress the spring without binding the boot, and allow you to get the boot tight against the rubber strut top mount. There should be no play between the strut boot and the strut mount, you should be able to tighten the top nut and get the boot/mount tight.
I also installed new rotors and pads from BrakeMotive all around, followed the bed-in directions, have about 350 miles, smooth, quiet, even. The price was awesome and the results so far are excellent.
There is more to come, 35mm front sway bar, looking for a used 82-92 21mm to 23mm rear bar, SFC go in next week. I continue to look for ways to get the biggest bang for my buck (I look for value and economy)
All said, I am having too much fun...
Springs are cut 1 1/2 front, 1 1/3 rear (yes 1 1/3). What I did was cut the spring ends to align the top and bottom spring ends on all 4 springs. No reason other than I like the symmetry of the coil when cut like this. I am sure there is a reason I should not have done it this way, I am open to any replies for or against. When I installed the rears I faced the cut end to the back of the car. Read somewhere this makes a difference. This is a learning experience, please chime in.
I did the HH mod on the back and installed Bilsteins from the WS6Store all around, and rolled the rear fenders just at the fender apex to deal with a rubbing issue, no issue now. The inside clears with no problem.
The wheels are 17.2x9.5 56mm (that's what they read, 17.2, anybody??) all around, I am running 25mm bolt-on billet aluminum adapters all around. I like the look and no issues so far. The tires are Nitto Motivo 275/40r17, they are a UHP all season tire that the Nitto site rates as a top dry, wet, and wear tire. They also come with a 60,000 mile manufacturer warranty. Bought at Discount tire for $143 each, great value for money.
I also have a Hotchkis dual adjustable panhard in the rear, the rear was about 1/4" off center before adjusted. Although it was not significant, I was surprised how much the panhard made the rear feel more solid, like the rear was following versus being pull by the front end in sharp cornering. I like it.
When I installed the Bilsteins I installed new Moog strut mount pads. One note which many know, this is for those that do not: when you compress the front strut spring with the AutoZone (yes I bought a HB spring compressor, do not do it, was a POS) spring compressor (paid $55 for it, used it, returned it, got a full refund, this is their "tool rental" program) the strut boot in my case would not clear the spring hooks. I had to release the spring tool to remove the boot the first time (yes I did this three different times, did I mention this was a learning experience).
When you reinstall the spring (old, new, cut), place the boot inside the spring as far up as it will go, then place the spring compressor hooks on the spring just below the top of the boot. This will allow you to compress the spring without binding the boot, and allow you to get the boot tight against the rubber strut top mount. There should be no play between the strut boot and the strut mount, you should be able to tighten the top nut and get the boot/mount tight.
I also installed new rotors and pads from BrakeMotive all around, followed the bed-in directions, have about 350 miles, smooth, quiet, even. The price was awesome and the results so far are excellent.
There is more to come, 35mm front sway bar, looking for a used 82-92 21mm to 23mm rear bar, SFC go in next week. I continue to look for ways to get the biggest bang for my buck (I look for value and economy)
All said, I am having too much fun...
