UMI Performance Suspension Over Haul - 1999 SS - Lots of pics!
04-05-2016, 09:23 AM
#321
These will mount in the rear as a true coilover yes, bearing to bearing with a reinforcement plate up top and a rear end mounting bracket. It will require two holes to be drilled on the rear end shock mount for support. There's pictures of this mounting system with our Viking package seen here: http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=783
Double's might be some time out as we still have some work to do. There's some packaging issues and other things we are still deciding on. We are so happy with the the way the single monotubes worked we feel they will do the trick. The rebound adjustment is very good on them and we have the compression fixed right where it needs to be.
Adjustable upper a-arms are getting closer. We have a cool new lower to go with them.
Lots of good stuff for the 4th gen happening here
Double's might be some time out as we still have some work to do. There's some packaging issues and other things we are still deciding on. We are so happy with the the way the single monotubes worked we feel they will do the trick. The rebound adjustment is very good on them and we have the compression fixed right where it needs to be.
Adjustable upper a-arms are getting closer. We have a cool new lower to go with them.
Lots of good stuff for the 4th gen happening here
04-05-2016, 05:34 PM
#322
These will mount in the rear as a true coilover yes, bearing to bearing with a reinforcement plate up top and a rear end mounting bracket. It will require two holes to be drilled on the rear end shock mount for support. There's pictures of this mounting system with our Viking package seen here: http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=783
Double's might be some time out as we still have some work to do. There's some packaging issues and other things we are still deciding on. We are so happy with the the way the single monotubes worked we feel they will do the trick. The rebound adjustment is very good on them and we have the compression fixed right where it needs to be.
Adjustable upper a-arms are getting closer. We have a cool new lower to go with them.
Lots of good stuff for the 4th gen happening here
Double's might be some time out as we still have some work to do. There's some packaging issues and other things we are still deciding on. We are so happy with the the way the single monotubes worked we feel they will do the trick. The rebound adjustment is very good on them and we have the compression fixed right where it needs to be.
Adjustable upper a-arms are getting closer. We have a cool new lower to go with them.
Lots of good stuff for the 4th gen happening here
04-06-2016, 08:42 AM
#323
So as many of you know adding positive caster using just an upper a-arm will move the spindle pin back slightly. It's pretty minimal and not necessarily an issue. However when running a larger tire such as a 315 on an 18" wheel in the front room is valuable to prevent rubbing. In order to run a nice amount of caster, if more caster is desired, we are moving the lower ball joint forward to help offset the upper a-arm. Since the spindle is so tall it takes moving the upper a decent amount to get a few degrees of positive caster. The upper adjustable a-arm will still work with stock lowers and should give anywhere from 5 to 8 degrees of positive caster with adjusting. With the lower we intend to install the new lower and the preset adjustable upper and immediately get 7 degrees of caster while maintaining a centered spindle pin.
06-07-2016, 08:45 AM
#325
Yep. I have been updating the other thread and I think getting my two threads mixed up.
We have used the car in 4 events already this year and it is doing great.
Now we are working on tuning up the roll center of the car. Similar to watts link but at a lower cost to build and more importantly to us right now is a quicker easier fix for the car the next event. We noticed immediate lateral grip when throttling out of a turn with the lowered roll center. This should soon be a affordable kit to work with your current panhard bar set up. Stay tuned.
We have used the car in 4 events already this year and it is doing great.
Now we are working on tuning up the roll center of the car. Similar to watts link but at a lower cost to build and more importantly to us right now is a quicker easier fix for the car the next event. We noticed immediate lateral grip when throttling out of a turn with the lowered roll center. This should soon be a affordable kit to work with your current panhard bar set up. Stay tuned.
06-08-2016, 04:57 PM
#328
12 Second Club
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Bucks County, Pa.
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep. I have been updating the other thread and I think getting my two threads mixed up.
We have used the car in 4 events already this year and it is doing great.
Now we are working on tuning up the roll center of the car. Similar to watts link but at a lower cost to build and more importantly to us right now is a quicker easier fix for the car the next event. We noticed immediate lateral grip when throttling out of a turn with the lowered roll center. This should soon be a affordable kit to work with your current panhard bar set up. Stay tuned.
We have used the car in 4 events already this year and it is doing great.
Now we are working on tuning up the roll center of the car. Similar to watts link but at a lower cost to build and more importantly to us right now is a quicker easier fix for the car the next event. We noticed immediate lateral grip when throttling out of a turn with the lowered roll center. This should soon be a affordable kit to work with your current panhard bar set up. Stay tuned.
I may consider this as a 'stop gap' until I save up my pennies for either a Fays 2, or YOUR Watts Link (IF that ever happens??).
Will this kit be TOTAL bolt-on, or will there have to be cutting and welding involved just by the nature of where/how it's mounted???
06-09-2016, 08:24 PM
#331
12 Second Club
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Bucks County, Pa.
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^^^They are currently only running in events which limit the tire compound/tread wear ratings (as you know), but yes, the Hossiers would be the ultimate 'stress test' for these products, assuming the HPE, or the other (forgot the name) hub conversion, as you've stated.
07-06-2016, 01:12 PM
#332
Now that we are quickly approaching the off season we have a few projects in the works. We took a little drive yesterday to see Sam at Strano Parts and let Sam drive the car, help with tuning and discuss some future product ideas. Same through the car up on his lift and we made some shock adjustments and discussed a few other things. We have some great ideas working together and some cool stuff coming soon we hope.
07-25-2016, 10:47 AM
#334
An update on Jerry's 4th gen from the Motor State Challenge this weekend held at Gingerman Raceway and autocross at the Tire Rack facility.
On Gingerman coming out of turn 10 the front right hub snapped in half, luckily it happened after the turn and I was able to bring the car to a safe stop off the track with damage to the car and driver as well as passenger safe. This was extremely lucky and could have been a lot worse! This really opened our eyes to the hub issues these cars have, we wear a lot of hubs out but this is the first we have broken one and it's becoming common.
We have been talking with John at HPE from some time about his hubs but never acted on it, $1,400 for a set of hubs can sound pricey but when you experience this type of failure you no longer blink an eye at that. HPE was at the event and we now have a set of their hubs coming to cure this issue. We were able to locate a factory hub from Autozone to finish the autocross part of the event, but the failure was in the back of my head at all times.
The accident also bent the C5 brake abutment bracket but a big crowbar and some redneck engineering allowed us to patch the car to finish the event.
On Gingerman coming out of turn 10 the front right hub snapped in half, luckily it happened after the turn and I was able to bring the car to a safe stop off the track with damage to the car and driver as well as passenger safe. This was extremely lucky and could have been a lot worse! This really opened our eyes to the hub issues these cars have, we wear a lot of hubs out but this is the first we have broken one and it's becoming common.
We have been talking with John at HPE from some time about his hubs but never acted on it, $1,400 for a set of hubs can sound pricey but when you experience this type of failure you no longer blink an eye at that. HPE was at the event and we now have a set of their hubs coming to cure this issue. We were able to locate a factory hub from Autozone to finish the autocross part of the event, but the failure was in the back of my head at all times.
The accident also bent the C5 brake abutment bracket but a big crowbar and some redneck engineering allowed us to patch the car to finish the event.
07-27-2016, 08:00 AM
#337
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Yep. I have been updating the other thread and I think getting my two threads mixed up.
We have used the car in 4 events already this year and it is doing great.
Now we are working on tuning up the roll center of the car. Similar to watts link but at a lower cost to build and more importantly to us right now is a quicker easier fix for the car the next event. We noticed immediate lateral grip when throttling out of a turn with the lowered roll center. This should soon be a affordable kit to work with your current panhard bar set up. Stay tuned.
We have used the car in 4 events already this year and it is doing great.
Now we are working on tuning up the roll center of the car. Similar to watts link but at a lower cost to build and more importantly to us right now is a quicker easier fix for the car the next event. We noticed immediate lateral grip when throttling out of a turn with the lowered roll center. This should soon be a affordable kit to work with your current panhard bar set up. Stay tuned.
08-01-2016, 09:16 AM
#338
A few updates..
We have been battling some weird clutch issues in the car. We are on our 3rd clutch in less than a year. The current LS7 clutch was working good but the peddle still had a weird feeling to it, even with the adjustable Tilton throw out bearing and Tick adjustable master cylinder we couldn't get it right. Our stock transmission was having 3rd to 4th shifting issues like most do overtime so we are ordered a T56 Magnum built by Bowler Transmission. We also opted for the Quick Time bell housing hoping that maybe the stock bell housing was causing some alignment issues.
Well upon removing the old transmission and trying to dial in the new bell housing we noticed the starter bolts were loose, again. This is the 2nd time the bolts have just came loose on the starter. After some careful analyzing we quickly learned we had some cracks in our LS1 block. The cracks are just in the webbing but one crack runs into the the start bolt hole... we are assuming this is why the starter bolt kept coming loose. We sent some pictures to CRE, our engine builder and he said he felt confident we could just weld those. So that is our next step to prevent having to dismantle the engine and start over. At these this may get us threw the rest of the year.
These two pictures show the cracks we found:
We have been battling some weird clutch issues in the car. We are on our 3rd clutch in less than a year. The current LS7 clutch was working good but the peddle still had a weird feeling to it, even with the adjustable Tilton throw out bearing and Tick adjustable master cylinder we couldn't get it right. Our stock transmission was having 3rd to 4th shifting issues like most do overtime so we are ordered a T56 Magnum built by Bowler Transmission. We also opted for the Quick Time bell housing hoping that maybe the stock bell housing was causing some alignment issues.
Well upon removing the old transmission and trying to dial in the new bell housing we noticed the starter bolts were loose, again. This is the 2nd time the bolts have just came loose on the starter. After some careful analyzing we quickly learned we had some cracks in our LS1 block. The cracks are just in the webbing but one crack runs into the the start bolt hole... we are assuming this is why the starter bolt kept coming loose. We sent some pictures to CRE, our engine builder and he said he felt confident we could just weld those. So that is our next step to prevent having to dismantle the engine and start over. At these this may get us threw the rest of the year.
These two pictures show the cracks we found:
08-01-2016, 11:43 AM
#339
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
That's because the ls7 clutch is a pile of **** and only belongs in dump trucks. The fingers move at high rpm then the release bearing can't get to them to release the disc. Put a real clutch in it.
a diamond or monster clutch would go well with this set up I think. Doesn't need to be anything crazy unless UMI wants a twin disc or something kewl.