6spd

iTrader: (3)

Is this an issue with my control arms? I am also getting a clunking sound after putting the car in reverse and disengaging the clutch. (right when the car starts to move backwards)

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

It could be an issue with a suspension item or the alignment could be out of whack too. The clunking noise you are hearing is more than likely the build up of tolerances in the rear end.

6spd

iTrader: (3)

I'm not sure what build up of tolerances means? Is there a way to check this out?
I've taken the car to 2 places and they can't figure anything out.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Is your rear end noisy or whine at all? If you have too much backlash in the rear end it will clunk. What kind of shops are you taking the car too?

6spd

iTrader: (3)

I have the stock rearend and gears. I recently changed out the fluid. There is no real whine, but perhaps a little bit of noise when rolling to a stop. Hard to remember. Nothing substantial.
I initially thought the clunk was an issue with my tranny mount. so I took it to transmission shop. Second place was general mechanic.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Mine was all over, and it was an combination issue of a number of worn parts (bushings, tie rods, etc) not holding alignment while in motion.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Is the only time it makes the clunk when you are going and reverse and disengaging the clutch.

6spd

iTrader: (3)

Ya, its weird. Mostly when the car has been sitting over night. 95% of time that is the case.
Occasionally I can notice it as I'm rolling forward to a stop. its rare.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked and/or replaced the u-joints in the driveshaft?

VIP1

When I had a steering issue like that, it was a worn ball joint.

Try this test.

* lift car so the front wheel is off the ground

* grab wheel at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions
* rock/tilt wheel left/right in/out arc
* if it moves/slides independent of the steering wheel (helps having someone hold it), then its a loose tie-rod

* grab wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions
* rock/tilt wheel up/down in/out arc
* if it moves/slides independent of the steering wheel (helps having someone hold it), then its a loose ball joint

6spd

iTrader: (3)

Thanks VIP. I'll try that.

ssjason232

iTrader: (14)

Surprised everyone missed this. It's bump steer. I'm assuming your car is lowered?

On a flat surface are your tie rods parallel with the ground or do they angle up (like a V).

I have the same peob. Also getting a bunch of noise from my BMR adj front LCAs. Want to look into replacing rod ends with a root joint. Or something.

Baer bump steer tie rod ends are the solution.

VIP1

Bump steer is possible, but depends on the sensation/reaction. Still a good idea to check for excess play in the tie rods and ball joints.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Given that most people with these cars don't have noticeable bump steer issues I doubt that those special tie rod ends are the solution. And given the geometry of the front suspension and steering components these cars don't have that much bump steer to begin with.

6spd

iTrader: (3)

I'm on stock suspension. I have also changed out the Ujoints

ssjason232

iTrader: (14)

I'm on my 3rd 4th gen. All we're lowered significantly, all had bump steer. Although when I was less informed than I am now, I thought it was normal. I'll get some pics and hopefully some updated results after I put the Baer tie rods on.

Just for reference I have BMR 1" drop LCAs, konis with strano springs. All with less than 10k miles on it. If the car is lowered enough than the angle of the tie rods get thrown off. They should be parallel to the ground. Mine look like a v.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Making your tie rods parallel with the ground won't help, if your control arms aren't. The control arms and tie rods need to be parallel with each other, ideally. Granted the lower arms should be parallel to the ground too. Keep that in mind. It is relative angles within the suspension to each other, not to the ground, and how they move together.

ssjason232

iTrader: (14)

The problem you are overseeing is that under the arc of the movement of the control arm, the tie rod runs out of room to move, jerking the wheel back.

Think of it like a dog tied to a tree. A squirrel comes by and he takes off. Eventually the leash runs out of room jerking the dog back. That = bump steer

VIP1

Check for worn components first, then look for other options.