lowering the car
10-20-2014, 02:47 AM
#1
Staging Lane
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lowering the car Alright so I'm about to lower my z28 real soon and as far as suspension goes it's stock and is sitting at about 133k miles on it so I know alot is going to be worn off and probably requiring replacement. So as of right now I have bought the bmr lowering springs and I am undecided between the bilstein HD or the slp bilstein package since konis are out of my price range and I was wondering what is the difference. Also I keep reading about getting a Panhard bar with it to adjust the rear and was wondering what's are the difference between them. Also is there anything else that might be good to buy since I'm lowering it. Thanks
10-20-2014, 03:11 AM
#2
TECH Addict
You want the in-car adjustable Pan hard rod, try and get one with the adjustable rod ends because they are inherently stronger. You'll also want the LCA relocation brackets to avoid wheel hop.
Poly bushings are popular, but I'd actually recommend getting the 1LE bushings if you can. They are better than stock (so I've heard), but not as harsh as the poly's.
I have no experience with either of those shocks, so no input there from me.
Poly bushings are popular, but I'd actually recommend getting the 1LE bushings if you can. They are better than stock (so I've heard), but not as harsh as the poly's.
I have no experience with either of those shocks, so no input there from me.
10-20-2014, 03:29 AM
#3
Staging Lane
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When buying the relocation brackets do I need to buy lower control arms with it or no...also as far as the pH bar goes there is a double adjustable rod end is that the one I would need because there are alot of options to get from
10-20-2014, 08:05 AM
#4
If you lower the car we definitely recommend an adjustable panhard bar. The Rod-Ended bar isn't necessary especially for a car predominately street driven.
The arc like pattern a panhard bar travels on changes the lateral location of the rear end as you change static ride height. Adjustable bars allow you to recenter the lateral location at static ride height. Rod-ends tend to be overkill for many street driven cars, and won't live as long in a street environment as a poly bushing would. This On-Car Adjustable Panhard Bar is probably our most popular poly ended rod.
For your shocks, you'll notice night and day difference with either you choose - so I would choose based on your budget.
If you want to do lower control arm relocation brackets, the geometry of the lower control arm is brought back into spec. When you lower it you compromise the angle that arm was designed to be at. It's not 100% necessary to replace the lower control arms but if you feel like you need new bushings, most people replace the arm with tubular and upgrade at the same time for just a few more dollars.
If you have any questions feel free to ask, hope this helps.
The arc like pattern a panhard bar travels on changes the lateral location of the rear end as you change static ride height. Adjustable bars allow you to recenter the lateral location at static ride height. Rod-ends tend to be overkill for many street driven cars, and won't live as long in a street environment as a poly bushing would. This On-Car Adjustable Panhard Bar is probably our most popular poly ended rod.
For your shocks, you'll notice night and day difference with either you choose - so I would choose based on your budget.
If you want to do lower control arm relocation brackets, the geometry of the lower control arm is brought back into spec. When you lower it you compromise the angle that arm was designed to be at. It's not 100% necessary to replace the lower control arms but if you feel like you need new bushings, most people replace the arm with tubular and upgrade at the same time for just a few more dollars.
If you have any questions feel free to ask, hope this helps.
10-20-2014, 09:27 AM
#5
TECH Senior Member
You do NOT need relocation brackets, and you may not get wheel hop. IF you do get wheel hop then you should consider them, however don't just start throwing parts at your car.
10-20-2014, 01:11 PM
#6
TECH Addict
If you lower the car we definitely recommend an adjustable panhard bar. The Rod-Ended bar isn't necessary especially for a car predominately street driven.
The arc like pattern a panhard bar travels on changes the lateral location of the rear end as you change static ride height. Adjustable bars allow you to recenter the lateral location at static ride height. Rod-ends tend to be overkill for many street driven cars, and won't live as long in a street environment as a poly bushing would. This On-Car Adjustable Panhard Bar is probably our most popular poly ended rod.
For your shocks, you'll notice night and day difference with either you choose - so I would choose based on your budget.
If you want to do lower control arm relocation brackets, the geometry of the lower control arm is brought back into spec. When you lower it you compromise the angle that arm was designed to be at. It's not 100% necessary to replace the lower control arms but if you feel like you need new bushings, most people replace the arm with tubular and upgrade at the same time for just a few more dollars.
If you have any questions feel free to ask, hope this helps.
The arc like pattern a panhard bar travels on changes the lateral location of the rear end as you change static ride height. Adjustable bars allow you to recenter the lateral location at static ride height. Rod-ends tend to be overkill for many street driven cars, and won't live as long in a street environment as a poly bushing would. This On-Car Adjustable Panhard Bar is probably our most popular poly ended rod.
For your shocks, you'll notice night and day difference with either you choose - so I would choose based on your budget.
If you want to do lower control arm relocation brackets, the geometry of the lower control arm is brought back into spec. When you lower it you compromise the angle that arm was designed to be at. It's not 100% necessary to replace the lower control arms but if you feel like you need new bushings, most people replace the arm with tubular and upgrade at the same time for just a few more dollars.
If you have any questions feel free to ask, hope this helps.
Here's a rod end adjustable Panhard that has rubber/poly ends. They don't have to be solid mounts. OP spend money only once.
10-20-2014, 01:15 PM
#7
That was the original BMR design maybe 10 years ago in the thread linked above. We have never had one of our bars bend with the adjustment on the end. The panhard bar I linked will be absolutely fine to use.
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10-20-2014, 01:15 PM
#8
TECH Addict
It is wise to "throw parts" at a car to protect it due to modification. You don't NEED poly motor mounts for a H/C/I build, but you should do them anyway while it's out.
10-20-2014, 01:19 PM
#9
TECH Addict
I have the same design you linked in. Not from you all, but I have zero issues with mine and I take some hard corners over some of the worst roads in America. However, after I've seen some of these style bend I wish I never bought this style and regret the purchase (even without having issues). The center screw style is inherently weak by design. It's physics. I didn't think it'd be weak enough to bend, but apparently 3700lbs pushing sideways and aft at close to (and sometimes exceeding) 1g can cause these things to give a little. If I were to buy one again, it would be what I'm recommending to the OP.
10-20-2014, 01:23 PM
#10
The LCA brackets protect nothing. This is the kind of crap that drives me nuts. To begin with, while they have their uses, they are not insurance against you breaking an axle. In fact most axles break not from wheelhop (as most folks don't pound on them that hard) but from general lack of care. Not changing the fluid, slapping 4.10's in them with tiny pinion gears. etc
And if you gotta have LCA brackets that much, why not LCA's? And why not a torque arm, that's an extra layer of anti-wheelhop protection and on and on.
As for the PHB. It's something I tell folks is recommended but not required.... You can also take a wait and see approach on it because the body's shift side to side is actually not huge when lowering any sane amount. It will some and you need at least an adjustable PHB to square it up, but it's often so little not many folks notice. If you do it's easy to add an adjustable PHB at any time.
And if you gotta have LCA brackets that much, why not LCA's? And why not a torque arm, that's an extra layer of anti-wheelhop protection and on and on.
As for the PHB. It's something I tell folks is recommended but not required.... You can also take a wait and see approach on it because the body's shift side to side is actually not huge when lowering any sane amount. It will some and you need at least an adjustable PHB to square it up, but it's often so little not many folks notice. If you do it's easy to add an adjustable PHB at any time.
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10-20-2014, 01:41 PM
#11
TECH Addict
The LCA brackets protect nothing. This is the kind of crap that drives me nuts. To begin with, while they have their uses, they are not insurance against you breaking an axle. In fact most axles break not from wheelhop (as most folks don't pound on them that hard) but from general lack of care. Not changing the fluid, slapping 4.10's in them with tiny pinion gears. etc
And if you gotta have LCA brackets that much, why not LCA's? And why not a torque arm, that's an extra layer of anti-wheelhop protection and on and on.
As for the PHB. It's something I tell folks is recommended but not required.... You can also take a wait and see approach on it because the body's shift side to side is actually not huge when lowering any sane amount. It will some and you need at least an adjustable PHB to square it up, but it's often so little not many folks notice. If you do it's easy to add an adjustable PHB at any time.
And if you gotta have LCA brackets that much, why not LCA's? And why not a torque arm, that's an extra layer of anti-wheelhop protection and on and on.
As for the PHB. It's something I tell folks is recommended but not required.... You can also take a wait and see approach on it because the body's shift side to side is actually not huge when lowering any sane amount. It will some and you need at least an adjustable PHB to square it up, but it's often so little not many folks notice. If you do it's easy to add an adjustable PHB at any time.
Wheel hop has killed more properly maintained rear axles than anything else. Doesn't matter what the axle is (IRS, Solid), what size (7.5- Dana 60), wheel hop breaks more properly maintained axles than the other things you mentioned (not saying the stuff you mentioned doesn't because they do). Wheel hop breaks axles on a 3300lb car with 180 hp, nothing else will when properly maintained. LCA relo brackets help avoid that.
LCA's are a worthy investment too (only $60 from a reliable manufacturer). The Torque arm is $400, that's a significant investment for someone not drag racing. I'm pushing over 400RWHP and still have the stock 1 window Tq Arm, no wheel hop, stock LCA's and LCA relocation brackets. LCA's are on the short list.
10-20-2014, 02:14 PM
#12
Staging Lane
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Thanks everyone for your useful information for lowering the car...i just want to do it right the first time and not have to worry about stuff breaking or what not. Might as well that I am doing this I'm going to get the lca relocating brackets just for added peace of mind that nothing will damage when I lower it
10-20-2014, 02:49 PM
#13
Nothing wrong with doing it that way if it makes you more comfortable.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!