Anti Roll Bar
#1
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
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From: Muscle Shoals AL,
Anti Roll Bar
Looking for suggestions and recomendations on Anti Roll Bar.
Car is a 2001 Camaro SS with a 408, got 450+ RWHP before nitrous. car is twisting pretty bad. Looking at a 150 shot one day. Currently hace Adjustable LCA, Pan Hard bar Relocation brackets. Front end has an aftermarket K-Member with adjustable Uppers and Lowers. Front shocks are coilovers, rears will have single adjustables shocks as well. Full weight car, car weigh's 3660 with me and a 1/2 tank of gas.
I hve been looking at the following ones.
1. BMR Extreme- Pros/Cons
2. Sphon Pro Series- Pros/Cons
3. Wolf Race Craft- Pros/Cons
4. TRZ Motorsports-Pros/Cons
Car is a 2001 Camaro SS with a 408, got 450+ RWHP before nitrous. car is twisting pretty bad. Looking at a 150 shot one day. Currently hace Adjustable LCA, Pan Hard bar Relocation brackets. Front end has an aftermarket K-Member with adjustable Uppers and Lowers. Front shocks are coilovers, rears will have single adjustables shocks as well. Full weight car, car weigh's 3660 with me and a 1/2 tank of gas.
I hve been looking at the following ones.
1. BMR Extreme- Pros/Cons
2. Sphon Pro Series- Pros/Cons
3. Wolf Race Craft- Pros/Cons
4. TRZ Motorsports-Pros/Cons
#5
There are a couple of things to consider when deciding on a a rear swaybar setup. Some of those factors are: How bad is the car twisting? How much street time doe sit see? How big of a concern is ride quality and cornering?
If the car is primarily a street car I would stay away from and solid bar/lever arm style ARB. They tend to be too stiff for street use and we have seen many cases where the lever arms actually break or bend because there is not enough flex in the bar. Our design is closer to that of a stock-style bar. While stiff enough to handle 1.1x 60's it is also capable of street duty. However, again with it being MUCH stiffer than a standard heavy duty sway bar, it may adversely affect handling and ride comfort. If the car is only lifting the left front by a few inches or so more than the right, you may be able to just go with a standard upgraded rear sway bar. It all comes down to how you plan to use the car and your comfort level requirements
If the car is primarily a street car I would stay away from and solid bar/lever arm style ARB. They tend to be too stiff for street use and we have seen many cases where the lever arms actually break or bend because there is not enough flex in the bar. Our design is closer to that of a stock-style bar. While stiff enough to handle 1.1x 60's it is also capable of street duty. However, again with it being MUCH stiffer than a standard heavy duty sway bar, it may adversely affect handling and ride comfort. If the car is only lifting the left front by a few inches or so more than the right, you may be able to just go with a standard upgraded rear sway bar. It all comes down to how you plan to use the car and your comfort level requirements
#6
Thread Starter
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iTrader: (7)
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From: Muscle Shoals AL,
Majestic9C1, I am running the Tunnel Mount Mid West Chassis T/A.
I've heard that they indeed have some good pieces.
BMR Tech2 my car is twisting pretty bad or at least I think so and so do others. As for how many street miles that it see's my car was built to be a street/track car. It doesn't see a lot of street miles. It does get driven to and from the track on a weekly basis. It is about 70 miles round trip and it gets driven there at least 3 weekends out of the month if not all 4. Ride quality is a big plus with me as for cornering not so much. I currently have rod ends on my upper and lower control arms. They are a little noisy for me but I am dealing with that.
The front drivers side tire is pulling about 8~10" and carrying it about 60~80' before it sets down.
The car currently has an aftermarket BMR K-member with adjustable UMI Upper and Lowers rod ends. Iron block 6.0
Rear has adjustable LCA with relocation brackets installed and adjustable PHB rod ends ( 1 ) end & poly on the other.
Also soon to be installed single adjustable QA1's all 4 corners.
There are a couple of things to consider when deciding on a a rear swaybar setup. Some of those factors are: How bad is the car twisting? How much street time doe sit see? How big of a concern is ride quality and cornering?
If the car is primarily a street car I would stay away from and solid bar/lever arm style ARB. They tend to be too stiff for street use and we have seen many cases where the lever arms actually break or bend because there is not enough flex in the bar. Our design is closer to that of a stock-style bar. While stiff enough to handle 1.1x 60's it is also capable of street duty. However, again with it being MUCH stiffer than a standard heavy duty sway bar, it may adversely affect handling and ride comfort. If the car is only lifting the left front by a few inches or so more than the right, you may be able to just go with a standard upgraded rear sway bar. It all comes down to how you plan to use the car and your comfort level requirements
If the car is primarily a street car I would stay away from and solid bar/lever arm style ARB. They tend to be too stiff for street use and we have seen many cases where the lever arms actually break or bend because there is not enough flex in the bar. Our design is closer to that of a stock-style bar. While stiff enough to handle 1.1x 60's it is also capable of street duty. However, again with it being MUCH stiffer than a standard heavy duty sway bar, it may adversely affect handling and ride comfort. If the car is only lifting the left front by a few inches or so more than the right, you may be able to just go with a standard upgraded rear sway bar. It all comes down to how you plan to use the car and your comfort level requirements
The front drivers side tire is pulling about 8~10" and carrying it about 60~80' before it sets down.
The car currently has an aftermarket BMR K-member with adjustable UMI Upper and Lowers rod ends. Iron block 6.0
Rear has adjustable LCA with relocation brackets installed and adjustable PHB rod ends ( 1 ) end & poly on the other.
Also soon to be installed single adjustable QA1's all 4 corners.
#7
It definitely sound like our BMR anti-roll bar (XSB001) would be a very good option for you. It is very street friendly for a anti-roll bar yet it is still stiff enough to offer 1.1X 60ft times. We have many of our customers with our BMR anti-roll bar that drive it on the street without any issues so the driving you do with your car won't be a big deal at all. It will offer much better drivability and ride quality than the other options on your list so that is definitely something to think about. Another one of the nice things about our anti-roll bar is that it is a bolt in item that doesn't require any welding.
The BMR anti-roll bar will offer you much better 60ft times and better, more consistent launches.
The BMR anti-roll bar will offer you much better 60ft times and better, more consistent launches.
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
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#8
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 444
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From: Muscle Shoals AL,
It definitely sound like our BMR anti-roll bar (XSB001) would be a very good option for you. It is very street friendly for a anti-roll bar yet it is still stiff enough to offer 1.1X 60ft times. We have many of our customers with our BMR anti-roll bar that drive it on the street without any issues so the driving you do with your car won't be a big deal at all. It will offer much better drivability and ride quality than the other options on your list so that is definitely something to think about. Another one of the nice things about our anti-roll bar is that it is a bolt in item that doesn't require any welding.
The BMR anti-roll bar will offer you much better 60ft times and better, more consistent launches.
The BMR anti-roll bar will offer you much better 60ft times and better, more consistent launches.
I may be wrong and please correct me if I am but I was thinking the P/N that I needed was the XSB002? I am still running the factory 10 bolt for now.
#9
You are correct, the XSB002 would be the one you would need if you have 10 bolt rear end in the car. I just assumed you had an aftermarket rear end in the car since you plan on making so much power. The 10 bolt rear ends are made of paper mache and butterfly wings so they generally don't hold up very well under heavy abuse.
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Last edited by BMR Sales2; 11-13-2014 at 04:11 PM.
#12
You could also try our 2245.
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=325
Keeps car flat, made in USA. Also, we are a top Viking dealer and can help you tune.
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=325
Keeps car flat, made in USA. Also, we are a top Viking dealer and can help you tune.
#13
I would call Madman.... The guy sells all brands and gives his honest opinion on each product for your goals... The guy knows suspension as his personal torque arm have seen a 1.06 60 ft on a drag radial.