Do Crossdrilled/Slotted Rotors do anything?
07-03-2004, 11:27 PM
#1
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Do Crossdrilled/Slotted Rotors do anything? The only advantage i can see is they look cool as heck.
Here's my thinking, their gimmick is that the brakes stay cooler... But Indy Cars' rotors are not crossdrilled or slotted, and they have the best chance to overheat in auto-racing.
Also doesn't crossdrilling reduce the surface area to clamp down on?
I need facts! help!
Here's my thinking, their gimmick is that the brakes stay cooler... But Indy Cars' rotors are not crossdrilled or slotted, and they have the best chance to overheat in auto-racing.
Also doesn't crossdrilling reduce the surface area to clamp down on?
I need facts! help!
Last edited by fretwire; 07-04-2004 at 12:03 AM.
07-03-2004, 11:54 PM
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How often do Indy cars switch rotors? How many miles? Correct.
How often do Indy cars wade through stop and go traffic? Correct again.
Cross Drilled/ and or Slotted work better EVERY TIME!!!!!
I promise. I've installed one or both of the variations on at least 5 friends cars, and also cross drilled on mine. You can feel the difference, and they DEFINATELY last longer due to less heat. I like 'em.
How often do Indy cars wade through stop and go traffic? Correct again.
Cross Drilled/ and or Slotted work better EVERY TIME!!!!!
I promise. I've installed one or both of the variations on at least 5 friends cars, and also cross drilled on mine. You can feel the difference, and they DEFINATELY last longer due to less heat. I like 'em.
07-04-2004, 01:41 AM
#4
Originally Posted by Zo6Killer
How often do Indy cars switch rotors? How many miles? Correct.
How often do Indy cars wade through stop and go traffic? Correct again.
Cross Drilled/ and or Slotted work better EVERY TIME!!!!!
I promise. I've installed one or both of the variations on at least 5 friends cars, and also cross drilled on mine. You can feel the difference, and they DEFINATELY last longer due to less heat. I like 'em.
How often do Indy cars wade through stop and go traffic? Correct again.
Cross Drilled/ and or Slotted work better EVERY TIME!!!!!
I promise. I've installed one or both of the variations on at least 5 friends cars, and also cross drilled on mine. You can feel the difference, and they DEFINATELY last longer due to less heat. I like 'em.
Start here:
http://home.columbus.rr.com/trackbir...led_rotors.htm
07-04-2004, 01:44 AM
#5
Then here.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/185467-do-cross-drilled-rotors-improve-wet-braking.html
This is a personal favorite of mine.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=rotor
The answers you seek lie within (even a few replies from Lou at LG motorsports, he makes a living racing cars).
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/185467-do-cross-drilled-rotors-improve-wet-braking.html
This is a personal favorite of mine.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=rotor
The answers you seek lie within (even a few replies from Lou at LG motorsports, he makes a living racing cars).
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07-04-2004, 02:18 AM
#8
People will buy them, they will sell them.
I mention Baers position on drilled rotors at the bottom of the page on the first link. If you go there, you'll run into it. That was my first hand experience with Baer, not a story I was told by someone else.
I mention Baers position on drilled rotors at the bottom of the page on the first link. If you go there, you'll run into it. That was my first hand experience with Baer, not a story I was told by someone else.
07-05-2004, 01:22 AM
#12
Originally Posted by fretwire
its obvious its something he's really passionate about....he wrote like 3 pages on it..
haha
but seriously i learned so much from your site.
haha
but seriously i learned so much from your site.
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful. I tried to condense years and years of learning the hard way down to a few pages (more to come) and hope to save others the time and money I wasted on crap that didn't work.
07-06-2004, 10:21 AM
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that is some great reading... but i hope you can answer this, racing and street driving are completely different, isnt the cool down time(stopped at a light) of the rotor one of the most important things for rotor life? that being said, wouldnt crossdrilled rotors cool better with less surface area, more air dissapation, make them last longer on the street? just wondering.
07-06-2004, 10:37 AM
#17
Originally Posted by hourang
that is some great reading... but i hope you can answer this, racing and street driving are completely different, isnt the cool down time(stopped at a light) of the rotor one of the most important things for rotor life? that being said, wouldnt crossdrilled rotors cool better with less surface area, more air dissapation, make them last longer on the street? just wondering.
Also, a drilled rotor has reduced surface area (the holes don't make friction, maybe a little from pad deflection into the hole, but that is back to splitting hairs). So, we are now "grinding" on less rotor face to do the same work, the rotor will wear reasonably faster (Baer racing told me about 20% when I spoke to them many years ago) due to the reduced swept area. Also, the hotter a brake pads working environment is, the more it wears. A lighter rotor with a higher temp can lead to accelerated pad wear and reduced pad life (I pay $150 for front pads, I like them to stay around a while).
And, as a side note. Everyone says "drilled rotors are for racing" (they were, before pad technology increased enough to make them "antiques") and you just made the potential arguement that "they could be better for street use than racing due to the differences in the application". I've never heard anyone use that angle before. Not giving you a hard time, just wanting you to look at your reply in a different light (I'm not sure you noticed what you actually said). People love their drilled rotors and will go to great lengths to defend them. If you understand drilled rotors and still want a set, you've made an informed decision. That is all I'm trying to do is to help people make an informed decision and not one based on who spends the most money on advertising.
They sure are pretty.....
07-06-2004, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by trackbird
If you are correct and there is less surface area, that is a smaller heat sink to handle the same thermal load. Would you put a smaller radiator in your car? Probably not. The other consideration is that a drilled (lighter in weight) rotor will have a higher temperature when you stop at the light than a non-drilled due to the reduced mass. So, now, even it if did cool better (really splitting hairs), it has more work to do. Air really does not blow through those holes with any velocity. When the car is stopped in a strong breeze there could be marginal airflow, but the rotor on the other side of the car will not see that air (unless the wind is blowing both ways at once). Another consideration is that rotors cool fairly quickly from the peak temps (the hottor a rotor is, the "cooler" the air seems in relation and the more cooling action there will be. Meaning an 80 degreee rotor on in 100 degree air will actually be heated by the air, and 1100 degree rotor on a 100 degree day will cool rapidly at first).
Also, a drilled rotor has reduced surface area (the holes don't make friction, maybe a little from pad deflection into the hole, but that is back to splitting hairs). So, we are now "grinding" on less rotor face to do the same work, the rotor will wear reasonably faster (Baer racing told me about 20% when I spoke to them many years ago) due to the reduced swept area. Also, the hotter a brake pads working environment is, the more it wears. A lighter rotor with a higher temp can lead to accelerated pad wear and reduced pad life (I pay $150 for front pads, I like them to stay around a while).
And, as a side note. Everyone says "drilled rotors are for racing" (they were, before pad technology increased enough to make them "antiques") and you just made the potential arguement that "they could be better for street use than racing due to the differences in the application". I've never heard anyone use that angle before. Not giving you a hard time, just wanting you to look at your reply in a different light (I'm not sure you noticed what you actually said). People love their drilled rotors and will go to great lengths to defend them. If you understand drilled rotors and still want a set, you've made an informed decision. That is all I'm trying to do is to help people make an informed decision and not one based on who spends the most money on advertising.
They sure are pretty.....
Also, a drilled rotor has reduced surface area (the holes don't make friction, maybe a little from pad deflection into the hole, but that is back to splitting hairs). So, we are now "grinding" on less rotor face to do the same work, the rotor will wear reasonably faster (Baer racing told me about 20% when I spoke to them many years ago) due to the reduced swept area. Also, the hotter a brake pads working environment is, the more it wears. A lighter rotor with a higher temp can lead to accelerated pad wear and reduced pad life (I pay $150 for front pads, I like them to stay around a while).
And, as a side note. Everyone says "drilled rotors are for racing" (they were, before pad technology increased enough to make them "antiques") and you just made the potential arguement that "they could be better for street use than racing due to the differences in the application". I've never heard anyone use that angle before. Not giving you a hard time, just wanting you to look at your reply in a different light (I'm not sure you noticed what you actually said). People love their drilled rotors and will go to great lengths to defend them. If you understand drilled rotors and still want a set, you've made an informed decision. That is all I'm trying to do is to help people make an informed decision and not one based on who spends the most money on advertising.
They sure are pretty.....
07-06-2004, 11:53 AM
#20
No problem. I didn't mean to infer that you were buying them. I was just using general statements.
The worst thing for a rotor that is very hot is to be left sitting (at a traffic light or parked). The rotor that is under the caliper will remain hotter than the part of the rotor that is exposed to the air. This can cause an uneven cooling of the rotor surface and this is the source of many standard brake rotor problems. Remember to cool them off before you park the car. Your brakes will thank you.
The worst thing for a rotor that is very hot is to be left sitting (at a traffic light or parked). The rotor that is under the caliper will remain hotter than the part of the rotor that is exposed to the air. This can cause an uneven cooling of the rotor surface and this is the source of many standard brake rotor problems. Remember to cool them off before you park the car. Your brakes will thank you.
