new brake pad install.. expensive? machining rotors?
#1
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new brake pad install.. expensive? machining rotors?
well i bought some hawk ceramic pads 160 shipped..(tirerack) so i called around to get them installed. both places i called said about 90$ per axle to have them installed.. WHAT? this is more than the actual pads. they say that this includes machining the rotors and such.. but is that necessary? ive heard before to not let them do that. is this how much its going to cost or should i keep looking
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They'd be machining the surface to provide a fresh rotor surface for the new pad, which also prevents any problems that would normally be associated with using a new pad with a non-compatible compound compared to the old pads. If the new pads are the same compound as the old pads, you don't need to worry about that. Also you could take the rotors off and take them somewhere to be machined.
Another alternative is that you could pick up some new autozone blanks for fairly cheap.
Another alternative is that you could pick up some new autozone blanks for fairly cheap.
#3
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Replacing the pads is easy.
Here is a write-up:
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ds_mwarren.htm
It is also a good idea to replace the rotors (especially if they are the originals). You can buy the AutoZone rotors of Brembo OEM blanks which are also available at TireRack.
Removing the rotors can be difficult though. They tend to rust in place.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=rotor
(Scroll down and you'll see my post and others about it)
Here is some more info on rotors and pads:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/262940-replacing-rotors-what-get.html
(Just dont do what absolut_speed said, he was joking.)
Here is a write-up:
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ds_mwarren.htm
It is also a good idea to replace the rotors (especially if they are the originals). You can buy the AutoZone rotors of Brembo OEM blanks which are also available at TireRack.
Removing the rotors can be difficult though. They tend to rust in place.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=rotor
(Scroll down and you'll see my post and others about it)
Here is some more info on rotors and pads:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/262940-replacing-rotors-what-get.html
(Just dont do what absolut_speed said, he was joking.)
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I'll second VIP's comments on doing your own brakes. It doesn't require much in the way of tools and the torque specs and instructions are readily available online. After the first time you do it you'll wonder why you ever paid anyone else.
FWIW, I'm not a big fan of turning rotors. All you're doing is removing material, which doesn't really help anything. If you feel your rotors are warped (i.e. oscillation in the brake pedal when stopping) then just spend a few bucks and replace them. There are a few low buck alternatives that will serve the average driver well (e.g. Autozone Duralasts, Brembo blanks, etc). If there is no indication of warpage then just leave them. If you have high mileage or otherwise suspect heavy wear on the rotors you might be safe and measure the thickness to ensure they are within spec.
FWIW, I'm not a big fan of turning rotors. All you're doing is removing material, which doesn't really help anything. If you feel your rotors are warped (i.e. oscillation in the brake pedal when stopping) then just spend a few bucks and replace them. There are a few low buck alternatives that will serve the average driver well (e.g. Autozone Duralasts, Brembo blanks, etc). If there is no indication of warpage then just leave them. If you have high mileage or otherwise suspect heavy wear on the rotors you might be safe and measure the thickness to ensure they are within spec.
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Originally Posted by pimpmaro
They'd be machining the surface to provide a fresh rotor surface for the new pad, which also prevents any problems that would normally be associated with using a new pad with a non-compatible compound compared to the old pads. If the new pads are the same compound as the old pads, you don't need to worry about that. Also you could take the rotors off and take them somewhere to be machined.
Another alternative is that you could pick up some new autozone blanks for fairly cheap.
Another alternative is that you could pick up some new autozone blanks for fairly cheap.
how much are the autozone blanks?
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Hrmmm, you might want to measure them to make sure they're within spec, or just get some of the autzone blanks. They're 39.99 a piece for the front, but 61.99 for the rears.
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well i bit the **** an just payed 170 for the install..when im driving out of the shop im braking and im like.. holy **** this is not right.. so after trying to drive through the train i turn around 3 miles later an come back.. one of the friggin calipers broke off.. everytime i was braking the car shook coming to a stop...so i go back an he gives me a new caliper an everything is real nice with them.. however i noticed that it really doesnt take any brake pressure at all to stop the car.. an i slam the brakes i have to press it down way harder than i used to.. is this different or was i just used to driving on bad brakes or wut.. strange
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Did you put new rotors on? Did he machine the rotors? Please please please tell me you didn't pay $170 just to get new pads installed...
Concerning how the car stops... did you break in the new pads?
Concerning how the car stops... did you break in the new pads?
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mm.. i think he said he rotated them? something like that.. didn't know you could do that but w/e works.. yeah they're the stock ones but w/e i dont wanna waste more money on this .. i dont have a job an im only 17 so im good for now.
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You mean turned the rotors? Turning them takes off the top layer of rotor material and leaves a fresh, machined surface for the new pads. I hate to say it, but it sounds like you got ripped off by paying 170 to get the rotors turned and brake pads installed. There are places that will turn rotors for you for 10 bucks a piece... and 130 to install pads... well I just won't go there... especially since he did something that resulted in the brake system becoming compromised.
Are you still having braking problems now that everything's fixed? Did he actually bleed the brakes after he fixed the caliper? If not, you need to bleed the brakes properly... RR, LR, RF, LF. If you need more help with it, go ahead and ask us. I wouldn't trust goin back to that guy...
Are you still having braking problems now that everything's fixed? Did he actually bleed the brakes after he fixed the caliper? If not, you need to bleed the brakes properly... RR, LR, RF, LF. If you need more help with it, go ahead and ask us. I wouldn't trust goin back to that guy...
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doubt he bled the brakes.. he fixed it in about 20 minutes.. after braking in the pads i think i made it worse than it was.. the pedal felt alot stiffer but now it sort of feels pulsy..its not a huge pulse or anything.. i think the rotors are okay.. hopefully.. and it seems to take more press on the pedal to slow down than before.. are new brakes like that?