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DD with aftermarket K-Members?

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Old 01-18-2006, 09:52 PM
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Default DD with aftermarket K-Members?

I was just curious if they were for daily driven car? I want to shed some weight off my car but I didn't know if they were right forr me.
Old 01-19-2006, 05:52 PM
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no, it will break
Old 01-19-2006, 06:25 PM
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You know, I had this same concerns. I think there is a thread about this if you want to try the search function. Someone said that BMR kmembers were pretty strong and that there were no documented cases of them breaking in daily driven cars. Honestly I want a tubular kmember mainly because my headers scrape the stock one I have now but obviously structural integrity has a lot to do with the choice to swap over.
Old 01-19-2006, 08:42 PM
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I had a BMR K-member on a DD. And it broke on the left side at the weld where it ties to the lower A-arm. It was the cross tube the seperated and my wheel assy. pulled back into the wheel well. I had felt the front of the car drift at 70mph when it happened. Not a good feeling. There isnt a huge weight saving to warrent a K-member from any company to drive daily on the street. your stocker is not much heavier anyway. I have super low pipes on my car now and the only thing they scape is the street. Poly motor mount will stop most banging from exhaust systems if not all. If you are mech capable and have a lift or acsess to one the mounts wont take long to install. And are cheaper than a K-member. If you want a better handeling car do springs/shock combo and swaybars first. still cheaper and more rewarding.
Old 01-19-2006, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by lsevenl
You know, I had this same concerns. I think there is a thread about this if you want to try the search function. Someone said that BMR kmembers were pretty strong and that there were no documented cases of them breaking in daily driven cars.
Actually, I've read several threads stating just the opposite. Apparently, aftermarket K-members are not to be used on daily driven cars because there have been cases where they do break. It even states on BMR's website that it should not be used for a daily driver, only race inspired cars.
Old 01-19-2006, 09:05 PM
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well, perhaps that is the case. I only read one thread a while back about tubular k members and no one could say if they were breaking or not. I guess it's good that someone chimed in with personal experience


as far as my the exhaust banging on the kmember. It has to do with my damn kooks lt headers resting on TOP of the kmember. It's a stupid fit and no clue why my car has this issue
Old 01-19-2006, 09:14 PM
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what broke on mine was the welds that connected the cross tube to the lower a-arm, which was a tubular piece also. You are not the only person that said this about Kooks. How bad is it, some have said a little grinding is nesasary to remedy that. If they are on the K-member, mabey you have a busted motor mount. I noticed when I replaced mine the engine sat a little higher.
Old 01-19-2006, 09:15 PM
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I'm going BMR 'K' member
UMI rod end upper and lowers in the front
Umi LCAs and rod end PHB
and a UMI cross member mounted TA
Still putting the parts on, but i'm hoping for the best.
I'm not a DD but i do Weekend Warrior
Hawk
Old 01-19-2006, 09:26 PM
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the weekend warrior is a different thing, a DD is not a good idea. I liked the K-member, until it broke. The roads conditions are so much worse than any track,so the wont survive the hostile hiway. Just think about the pot holes, animals and quick turns your DD has to go threw on a daily basis.
Old 01-19-2006, 09:47 PM
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Even BMR no longer claims the piece is up to
street abuse.

Mine hasn't broken. But I don't take it for
granted, I baby it and inspect it.

"It's not the fall that kills you, it's the sudden
stop at the end".
Old 01-20-2006, 03:08 PM
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Thanks for the help. That tells me everything I needed to know. I guess I need to look else where to knock some weight off the car. Any Ideas????
Old 01-20-2006, 05:32 PM
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QA-1's , remove front swaybar, put battery in right rear, remove rear seat radio,etc. how far into weight savings do want to go? and keep a decent ride on the street.
Old 01-20-2006, 09:55 PM
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Definetely remove the spar tire/jack, rear seats with seat belt assembly, empty out the washer fluid reservoir, remove AIR and EGR pumps (if applicable). Those combined items should equal around 60 lbs.
Old 01-21-2006, 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Krab
Definetely remove the spar tire/jack, rear seats with seat belt assembly, empty out the washer fluid reservoir, remove AIR and EGR pumps (if applicable). Those combined items should equal around 60 lbs.
I removed the entire washer fluid res. simply because it looked like ****
Old 01-21-2006, 10:14 AM
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I DD mine about 10k miles a year and never seem to have any problems and that was with a PA kmember now my new car will have the BMR in it just have to be alert while driving just like I sometimes DD with the bogarts on the car
Old 01-21-2006, 11:19 AM
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The PA K-Member has less joints at the lower A-arm point, In my opinion, its a much stronger part.

Ryan
Old 01-21-2006, 09:25 PM
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The PA k-member also uses stock mount pedastals and as such, has a mouting plate for them that spans the two uprights on each side. This provides a ton in the way of bracing for those joints...
Old 01-21-2006, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by xssive
The PA k-member also uses stock mount pedastals and as such, has a mouting plate for them that spans the two uprights on each side. This provides a ton in the way of bracing for those joints...
I thought the stock pedestals weighed in like 12 lbs each???? That's a pretty big number x 2??
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Old 01-21-2006, 09:38 PM
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The pedestals are heavy yes, but you can also use solid motor mounts in their place like I am from Spohn. I am perfectly fine with the 6-8 lbs that these mounts add over other k-members knowing that the extra bracing is there...




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