Suspension & Brakes Springs | Shocks | Handling | Rotors
View Poll Results: What will stop my spinning
New adj Koni rear shocks and LCA's
4
5.19%
Adj LCA's and Koni adj rear shocks
4
5.19%
LCA's with relo-brackets and panhard
11
14.29%
Torque arm and LCA's
42
54.55%
Other --- please list
16
20.78%
Voters: 77. You may not vote on this poll

stop spinning now - cast your vote!

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Old 06-28-2006, 11:50 AM
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Default stop spinning now - cast your vote!

Please read before you vote
First off let me tell you whats up with my car. 02 WS6 with completely stock suspension. The problem I am having is that under acceleration I start to spinn the wheels from the top of first and into the begining of second. This obviously is causing some major problems in my ET, also it can even be hard to keep in my lane.

1. Need to stop the spinning at the top of first and beginging of second gear.

2. I am only concerned with straight line performance, not corner carving (I drive like your grandma, unless in a race).

3. This is a street car only, has never and might never see the track.

4. New tires will be coming soon, about 3 months so I know I need better ones.

Last edited by radz; 06-28-2006 at 11:55 AM. Reason: missspelled word
Old 06-28-2006, 12:04 PM
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Drag radials will help.
Old 06-28-2006, 12:07 PM
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Drag radials, LCAs, torque arm, poly swaybar bushings in back, and maybe a stiffer rear swaybar if still having problems.

I'd go in that order and see what happens. If you plan on waiting a bit on the tires, skip ahead to the LCAs then.
Old 06-28-2006, 12:09 PM
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I'm also going to say just buy the poly/poly LCAs. I have them on my car and have no problems. Since you don't care about handling at all, I would just go with those. You won't have any binding issues in a straight line. I've yet to have trouble with them on either car.
Old 06-28-2006, 01:45 PM
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someone should do a sticky... something like "all the tubular, polyurethane junk in the world will not make up for a tire that doesn't stick"
Old 06-28-2006, 03:21 PM
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I would do DR, LCA's w/relocation brackets & a panhard bar. Then if your still spinning get the torque arm & you suspension is almost done.
Old 06-28-2006, 03:58 PM
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After I put on LCA's w/ relocation brackets and the adjustable panhard bar that cured my wheel hop problem.
Old 06-29-2006, 09:13 AM
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I put on LCAs and a PHR which tightened up the rear and stopped any hopping but I didn't get alot more traction until I put in a new TA.
Old 06-29-2006, 10:56 AM
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start with drag radials
Old 06-30-2006, 10:42 PM
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Yep, tires first.
Old 07-01-2006, 04:42 AM
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DR's + LCA's + TA
Old 07-02-2006, 08:33 PM
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Assuming you are polling spinning the rear tires - The first thing I did was put on Firestone Firehawks and then Goodyear Eagle F-1 GS-D3 and now the newer Firestone Firehawk Wide Oval. It seems most people put wide but poor traction street tires. These are great street tires and hard to break loose unless you are in loose stuff with a stock rear end and a 6 spd. I would typically burn the stock clutch rather than spin the rear wheels with any of those tires, if I really tried to break them loose. Automatics may be another matter.

I have also put on 17 in wheels, 275-40-17 tires, Bilstien shocks, sub frame connector and struts and stiffer, PHR but that was for cornering power.
Old 07-12-2006, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by OldeSkool
someone should do a sticky... something like "all the tubular, polyurethane junk in the world will not make up for a tire that doesn't stick"
TIRES
Hawk
Old 07-12-2006, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jrnorman
Assuming you are polling spinning the rear tires - The first thing I did was put on Firestone Firehawks and then Goodyear Eagle F-1 GS-D3 and now the newer Firestone Firehawk Wide Oval. It seems most people put wide but poor traction street tires. These are great street tires and hard to break loose unless you are in loose stuff with a stock rear end and a 6 spd. I would typically burn the stock clutch rather than spin the rear wheels with any of those tires, if I really tried to break them loose. Automatics may be another matter.

I have also put on 17 in wheels, 275-40-17 tires, Bilstien shocks, sub frame connector and struts and stiffer, PHR but that was for cornering power.
I run the Firehawk tires on the street. Good looking tire and i can pretty much ROAST them @ will. If you're going to win go to Drags or full
slicks. Drags work better on the street.
Hawk
Old 07-13-2006, 03:07 PM
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Other: TIRES
Old 08-18-2006, 02:05 PM
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I put nittos made a HUGE difference.I vote tires first.
Old 08-18-2006, 02:40 PM
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Good tires are the light that helps you figure out what your suspension really needs or doesn't need. I vote tires.
Old 08-18-2006, 03:17 PM
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Tires, tires, tires. All the other suspension stuff is aimed
at the starting line, not your top-of-1st problem, or is
just plain traction-irrelevant (PHR). Although it's peculiar
that top of 1st, rather than the bottom/middle, is where
traction goes away since the stock motor has a flat or
fading torque profile up top and rear wheel torque is what
overcomes the tires' static friction.
Old 08-18-2006, 10:47 PM
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Adjustable T/A was my best acquisition....helped to reduce my wheel hop on STREET TIRES!
Old 08-20-2006, 01:57 PM
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TIRES all the way... Start with DR's a good tire will stop the spinning the Micky DR's worked the best for me.



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