View Poll Results: What will stop my spinning
New adj Koni rear shocks and LCA's
4
5.19%
Adj LCA's and Koni adj rear shocks
4
5.19%
LCA's with relo-brackets and panhard
11
14.29%
Torque arm and LCA's
42
54.55%
Other --- please list
16
20.78%
Voters: 77. You may not vote on this poll
stop spinning now - cast your vote!
#1
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stop spinning now - cast your vote!
Please read before you vote
First off let me tell you whats up with my car. 02 WS6 with completely stock suspension. The problem I am having is that under acceleration I start to spinn the wheels from the top of first and into the begining of second. This obviously is causing some major problems in my ET, also it can even be hard to keep in my lane.
1. Need to stop the spinning at the top of first and beginging of second gear.
2. I am only concerned with straight line performance, not corner carving (I drive like your grandma, unless in a race).
3. This is a street car only, has never and might never see the track.
4. New tires will be coming soon, about 3 months so I know I need better ones.
First off let me tell you whats up with my car. 02 WS6 with completely stock suspension. The problem I am having is that under acceleration I start to spinn the wheels from the top of first and into the begining of second. This obviously is causing some major problems in my ET, also it can even be hard to keep in my lane.
1. Need to stop the spinning at the top of first and beginging of second gear.
2. I am only concerned with straight line performance, not corner carving (I drive like your grandma, unless in a race).
3. This is a street car only, has never and might never see the track.
4. New tires will be coming soon, about 3 months so I know I need better ones.
Last edited by radz; 06-28-2006 at 11:55 AM. Reason: missspelled word
#4
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I'm also going to say just buy the poly/poly LCAs. I have them on my car and have no problems. Since you don't care about handling at all, I would just go with those. You won't have any binding issues in a straight line. I've yet to have trouble with them on either car.
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#12
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Assuming you are polling spinning the rear tires - The first thing I did was put on Firestone Firehawks and then Goodyear Eagle F-1 GS-D3 and now the newer Firestone Firehawk Wide Oval. It seems most people put wide but poor traction street tires. These are great street tires and hard to break loose unless you are in loose stuff with a stock rear end and a 6 spd. I would typically burn the stock clutch rather than spin the rear wheels with any of those tires, if I really tried to break them loose. Automatics may be another matter.
I have also put on 17 in wheels, 275-40-17 tires, Bilstien shocks, sub frame connector and struts and stiffer, PHR but that was for cornering power.
I have also put on 17 in wheels, 275-40-17 tires, Bilstien shocks, sub frame connector and struts and stiffer, PHR but that was for cornering power.
#13
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Originally Posted by OldeSkool
someone should do a sticky... something like "all the tubular, polyurethane junk in the world will not make up for a tire that doesn't stick"
Hawk
#14
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Originally Posted by jrnorman
Assuming you are polling spinning the rear tires - The first thing I did was put on Firestone Firehawks and then Goodyear Eagle F-1 GS-D3 and now the newer Firestone Firehawk Wide Oval. It seems most people put wide but poor traction street tires. These are great street tires and hard to break loose unless you are in loose stuff with a stock rear end and a 6 spd. I would typically burn the stock clutch rather than spin the rear wheels with any of those tires, if I really tried to break them loose. Automatics may be another matter.
I have also put on 17 in wheels, 275-40-17 tires, Bilstien shocks, sub frame connector and struts and stiffer, PHR but that was for cornering power.
I have also put on 17 in wheels, 275-40-17 tires, Bilstien shocks, sub frame connector and struts and stiffer, PHR but that was for cornering power.
slicks. Drags work better on the street.
Hawk
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Tires, tires, tires. All the other suspension stuff is aimed
at the starting line, not your top-of-1st problem, or is
just plain traction-irrelevant (PHR). Although it's peculiar
that top of 1st, rather than the bottom/middle, is where
traction goes away since the stock motor has a flat or
fading torque profile up top and rear wheel torque is what
overcomes the tires' static friction.
at the starting line, not your top-of-1st problem, or is
just plain traction-irrelevant (PHR). Although it's peculiar
that top of 1st, rather than the bottom/middle, is where
traction goes away since the stock motor has a flat or
fading torque profile up top and rear wheel torque is what
overcomes the tires' static friction.