CAlley2001

Is there anywhere I can view a install document on how to change my Torque Arm? I'm going with the BMR. The only thing on installuniversity.com was how to change the stock bushings. Is it a one person job, or do I need a friend to help? Do I have to have the whole car off the ground, or can I just jack up the front?

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

You will need the car up on all 4 corners.

Save yourself some headache and remove the trans cross member. Makes getting the stock TA front mount off a lot easier.

And I believe, at least the last time I looked, that the BMR TA didn't use the stock mounting location up front. So you will have to do some fabrication.

That was the one of the factors that turned me against many aftermarket TAs and settled on the LG Motorsports unit. IT uses all the stock mounting points.

Good Luck

Holes02

The Spohn Torque Arm uses a new mounting point, however, there is NO welding or fabricating required.
It bolts right up to the floorboard, and looks like a VERY sturdy piece.
We're going to be installing one on a friends car soon (Spohn Arm's in the mail) and we've never installed a torque arm before. (We are going to have access to a drive on lift, however)

As soon as the installs complete, I'll see if I can do a simple write up for ya.

CAlley2001

WEll, on the BMR page it says it uses all the stock mounting points.

DBerry

If your using the bolt in TA I believe it does use the stock mounting points. If you've got the extreme duty TA it requires welding to the SFC's which you must have.
Instalation of the bolt in is pretty straight forward.
1. Get the car up enough to get under it safely.
2. Remove 4 bolts and crossmember.
3. Remove 2 bolts going through the TA and the rear end.
4. Loosten one bolt on the TA clamp at the tail of the trans.
5. Then you will probably need someone to help pull down on the driveshaft to keep the rear from trying to roll while you remove the old TA and replace with the new one.
6. Replace and tighten all bolts.
7. Let the car down and your ready to roll.

No one else has said anything about step 5 but everytime I've done mine(about 10 times now) the front of the rearend has wanted to roll up making it impossible to get the TA on.

CAlley2001

Ok, so what about the Spohn then? It uses different mounting location? But its still just a bolt on?

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by CAlley2001:
<strong>Ok, so what about the Spohn then? It uses different mounting location? But its still just a bolt on?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yep, after you drill holes in the floor pan of your car and then get the thing ripped out by the first obstacle you don't clear at 70 mph. A friend's Z28 was the victim of the Spohn cross member.

Do yourself a favor and call LG Motorsports.

CAlley2001

If the Spohn TA is bolt on, why would you have to drill holes in your floor pan? I checked LG Mortorsports but damn, its $500 bucks.

<small>[ April 24, 2002, 08:59 PM: Message edited by: CAlley2001 ]</small>

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

As I recall, the Spohn cross member bolted to the floor pan and the TA bolted to it.

If the G2 works, and Lou has been known to guarantee it, it's worth it. Mine definitely does. All brake induced wheel hop is gone.

The Z28 owner sold his Spohn and installed the G2 unit as well.

<small>[ April 24, 2002, 09:08 PM: Message edited by: mitchntx ]</small>

CAlley2001

Is the G2 adjustable?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Need the car up...

Take the back bolts off.

Now slid the tq arm out of the front bushing.

I have the RT tq arm.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

No, it's not.

But it works, so there really isn't a need