Z-Rated

well i am goanna get a prokit, so b/c i have a Z28 i was planning to get some bilstiens. is that a good choice? and would i need anything else?

Drew

Darkhalf

iTrader: (1)

If you are going with the bilsteins then I would highly suggest buying a set of revalved bilsteins through Sam Strano. He know his stuff and will revalve the way you like. The regular HD Bilsteins are much better than the stock shocks for sure but when you lower the car especially with the prokit then it would be wise to have the front shocks revalved.
Sam was/is having a special on the Eibach Prokit and also the Bilsteins.
www.stranoparts.com
I don't know if he is a site sponsor yet, but he is on other sites.

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

Drew,
All you really need are the springs and an alignment, but certainly shocks are a good thing to do at the same time.

Another good idea when lowering is doing LCA relocation brackets to keep the LCA's oriented properly. My prokit springs lowered my SS enough to warrant using the lowest hole on my BMR brackets, so they're ceratinly a good idea.

Also, once you've completed the lowering, check to make sure your rear axle is aligned left to right with the car on the ground (i.e. not on jackstands, etc). You can do this by dropping a plumbob from the top of each rear fender and measuring the distance to the wheel on that side. If the two sides are off then you should get an adjustable panhard rod to put it back on center. In my case I was off by ~ 1/8".

Z-Rated

Dang thanks for the great info fellas! I was wondering about the relocating brackets and the adj panhard. that cleared it up for me. So whats a good brand of LCAs? BMR, G2 or what? might change those too while im down there. And what about a panhard any suggestions??

Drew

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Drew2G2:
So whats a good brand of LCAs? BMR, G2 or what? </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ultimately the LG poly/rod end LCA's will be the best performer if you're willing to deal with some additional road noise. If you must have an "OEM-quiet" ride then the BMR rubber/poly LCA's are probably you're best alternative.

Postal

On a car that is going to see more street use. I could never take the road noise that is generated by the poly/heim joint LCA's. But hay, that's just me. I went with the BMR rubber/poly combo. Excellent upgrade and no noise increase.

I like my BMR adjustable PHR. Very solid and haven't had issue with it yet.

As for shocks. I'm not sure if you still have the stock DeCarbons. But OMG what a POS those shocks are. I called up Strano and ordered the revalved Bilsteins to go along with my Prokit. The shocks IMO really do make a huge difference along with the lowered springs.

I'd also suggest getting some SFC's while you at it. I know your car is new but it will still help stiffen up that weak sub-frames we have.

Relocation brackets are not a must unless expierencing wheelhop on your launch. No wheelhop no need for the relo brackets. But with them, I must admit it feels like the tires bite down on the street harder.

Z-Rated

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Postal:
<strong>

Relocation brackets are not a must unless expierencing wheelhop on your launch. No wheelhop no need for the relo brackets. But with them, I must admit it feels like the tires bite down on the street harder.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thats really good to know. I think i am goanna just get the springs and shocks then get the LCAs and that panhard later on down the road. Money is sorta an issue. thanks guys <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Drew

Edit- what kind of road noise are yall talking about?????

<small>[ October 20, 2002, 11:21 PM: Message edited by: Drew2G2 ]</small>

PewterZ

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Drew2G2:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Postal:
<strong>

Relocation brackets are not a must unless expierencing wheelhop on your launch. No wheelhop no need for the relo brackets. But with them, I must admit it feels like the tires bite down on the street harder.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thats really good to know. I think i am goanna just get the springs and shocks then get the LCAs and that panhard later on down the road. Money is sorta an issue. thanks guys <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Drew

Edit- what kind of road noise are yall talking about?????</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Just a low drone/vibration... Basically tire noise...

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I am running a set of BMR lower control arms and the matching panhard rod with the heim joints (rod ends) on both ends. The noise that they are talking about is a constant thumping and banging that you will hear on choppy pavement at low speeds or on really rough pavement at high speeds. They do make a bit of noise around town but I don't find them to be to bad above 40 mph or so. I am also running H&R stage 2 springs with Koni double adjustable shocks on my 2002 Z28 (with SLP subframe connectors and a BMR strut tower brace). If you do nothing else to that car, put a strut tower brace on it, you won't believe the difference (expecially if you have t-tops)...it will feel like a new car. Anyway, the rod ends are noisy, but I'll take the noise for the improvement in handling. Good luck.....

NUTBUTER

Thunder Racing has a great kit to do this job at a good cost

but alot of people will say to stay away from weld in R/B and to go with the bolt in

good luck
Nutbuter