i need rotors used or cheap
11-16-2006, 01:20 PM
#1
i need rotors used or cheap Yes i need new rotors for my 01bird but i wanna see if any one has any used ones or not, or if any ones knows where to get cheap ones i like the power slot or drilled hole ones cuz i want perfomace rotor. I need a complete set front and back so if any ones knows or has any pleace reply!!
11-16-2006, 01:44 PM
#2
Drilled and slotted aren't performance rotors. You pay a lot more for them too.
I've got rotors that start @ $43 each for the front ones, and they go up from there. Blanks. Again, drilling and slotting simply takes swept area away from the brake pads. Less rotor for the pad to contact helps your braking power not at all.
I've got rotors that start @ $43 each for the front ones, and they go up from there. Blanks. Again, drilling and slotting simply takes swept area away from the brake pads. Less rotor for the pad to contact helps your braking power not at all.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
11-16-2006, 02:54 PM
#4
Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Drilled and slotted aren't performance rotors. You pay a lot more for them too.
Save your pennies and buy "blanks". Do a quick search for "drilled rotors" here and read the brake "sticky" in this forum.
Just trying to save you some money.
11-16-2006, 04:43 PM
#6
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Anheuser Busch, Houston Texas
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by soloman369
Thanks guys for the help so drilled really dont do any thing for baking performance?
Get yourself some good quality blanks and spend your money on pads.
Trending Topics
11-16-2006, 05:41 PM
#11
TECH Addict
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Honolulu HI
Posts: 2,513
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ive got a set of stock ones with about 40k on them. took them off when i got my wholesale direct ones. i think 50 bucks over shipping should be enough. They should be resurfaced though.
11-17-2006, 09:07 AM
#12
12 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've got a set of used rear rotors I just pulled off my 00 here in Austin. Don't know your location, but I'd be willing to let them go for next to nothing. No major grooves, have 60k on them, and I know O'reily's here turns em for $8.
I still love how everyone jumps on the bash cross drilled slotted rotors.
I have em, like em, and they work fine. I do have improved braking, and less brake fade. Granted you reduce the surface area, but you also increase the cooling capabilities. Do most people need them, no. Are there other alternatives that work just as good, probably. Are cross drilled/slotted rotors mostly purchased for show, yes. Are they overpriced, definately.
I still love how everyone jumps on the bash cross drilled slotted rotors.
I have em, like em, and they work fine. I do have improved braking, and less brake fade. Granted you reduce the surface area, but you also increase the cooling capabilities. Do most people need them, no. Are there other alternatives that work just as good, probably. Are cross drilled/slotted rotors mostly purchased for show, yes. Are they overpriced, definately.
11-17-2006, 10:33 PM
#13
Copy & Paste Moderator
Originally Posted by Ouija
I still love how everyone jumps on the bash cross drilled slotted rotors.
I have em, like em, and they work fine. I do have improved braking, and less brake fade. Granted you reduce the surface area, but you also increase the cooling capabilities. Do most people need them, no. Are there other alternatives that work just as good, probably. Are cross drilled/slotted rotors mostly purchased for show, yes. Are they overpriced, definately.
I have em, like em, and they work fine. I do have improved braking, and less brake fade. Granted you reduce the surface area, but you also increase the cooling capabilities. Do most people need them, no. Are there other alternatives that work just as good, probably. Are cross drilled/slotted rotors mostly purchased for show, yes. Are they overpriced, definately.
Please read:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/565786-best-sponsor-prices-set-cross-drilled-slotted-rotors.html
(scroll down to my post)
One of many many many many many many many many threads on the subject.
11-18-2006, 09:14 AM
#14
12 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
VIP,
I've gone through most of what you posted and it all supports my statement.
I'm going to ignore your
emoticon and pretend that you weren't trying to insult me and my viewpoint, that you were just stating you disagree with my statements even though your links fully support what I said.
I'm also choosing to assume that either I didn't make it clear enough or you didn't read my statement fully.
Please re-read my paragraph and you will see that I stated most people don't need them, they are "typically" for show, and there are probably other alternatives that work just as good.
Which is what I gathered from all your links.
I didn't state "Yes it eats up pads faster." Sorry, I missed that one.
For my application they are better. I warped three sets of stock rotors from 120+ hard braking within the first 30k miles. Dealer had to replace the rotors for free at 10, 20 and 30k miles. They told me that I was braking too hard and they wouldn't do it again.
At 35k miles I went with the Baer Eradispeed+ rotors and an upgraded pad because I warped my front set again.
I have hit the point where my brake temps are in excess of street pad capabilities and had out-gassing. It's not fun to experience brake fade at 100+. Baer's site talks about it in the link you provided.
Thanks for helping clarify that most people will never exceeded the capabilities of a standard rotor and need never need a cross drilled.
Obviously with a street pad, in extreme braking conditions, cross drilling is a benefit, but if you go with a "high performance - race capable" pad you should never need cross drilling.
Part of stating that most people won't ever need them is also admitting that they do have some benefits. You just have to remember all the hype uneducated individuals state about them is not true.
I've gone through most of what you posted and it all supports my statement.
I'm going to ignore your
emoticon and pretend that you weren't trying to insult me and my viewpoint, that you were just stating you disagree with my statements even though your links fully support what I said.I'm also choosing to assume that either I didn't make it clear enough or you didn't read my statement fully.
Please re-read my paragraph and you will see that I stated most people don't need them, they are "typically" for show, and there are probably other alternatives that work just as good.
Which is what I gathered from all your links.
I didn't state "Yes it eats up pads faster." Sorry, I missed that one.
For my application they are better. I warped three sets of stock rotors from 120+ hard braking within the first 30k miles. Dealer had to replace the rotors for free at 10, 20 and 30k miles. They told me that I was braking too hard and they wouldn't do it again.
At 35k miles I went with the Baer Eradispeed+ rotors and an upgraded pad because I warped my front set again.I have hit the point where my brake temps are in excess of street pad capabilities and had out-gassing. It's not fun to experience brake fade at 100+. Baer's site talks about it in the link you provided.
Thanks for helping clarify that most people will never exceeded the capabilities of a standard rotor and need never need a cross drilled.
Obviously with a street pad, in extreme braking conditions, cross drilling is a benefit, but if you go with a "high performance - race capable" pad you should never need cross drilling.
Part of stating that most people won't ever need them is also admitting that they do have some benefits. You just have to remember all the hype uneducated individuals state about them is not true.
Last edited by Ouija; 11-18-2006 at 09:32 AM.
11-18-2006, 07:31 PM
#16
12 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
IMO, you, of course, are not one of them, and I'm hoping that wasn't a dig on me because I respect all the time and research you have posted about the topic.
From my reading of your posts, you post the facts about items, and attempt to not simply expel your beliefs without supporting evidence.
I've noticed how you put up an analogy, and then still put up the posts from the manufacturers whether or not they agreed with your analogy. I totally understood your point of less mass heats up quicker, however fluid/airflow dyamics are tricky things to calculate, and simple analogies often dont' hold up.
I'm sure you agree with me that cross drilling does have some benefits in the appropriate applications, depending upon: temperature, crossdrilling style, venting & slotting options, along with pad choice.
Simply stating cross drilled is the best, is just stupid though.
Just like stating one torque converter is the best, or one shock is the best. It all depends upon what you are trying to do with the item, and the whole of the vehicle.
I reckon this is way beyond "needing used rotors cheap" so I shall rest on this topic here.
From my reading of your posts, you post the facts about items, and attempt to not simply expel your beliefs without supporting evidence.
I've noticed how you put up an analogy, and then still put up the posts from the manufacturers whether or not they agreed with your analogy. I totally understood your point of less mass heats up quicker, however fluid/airflow dyamics are tricky things to calculate, and simple analogies often dont' hold up.
I'm sure you agree with me that cross drilling does have some benefits in the appropriate applications, depending upon: temperature, crossdrilling style, venting & slotting options, along with pad choice.
Simply stating cross drilled is the best, is just stupid though.
Just like stating one torque converter is the best, or one shock is the best. It all depends upon what you are trying to do with the item, and the whole of the vehicle.
I reckon this is way beyond "needing used rotors cheap" so I shall rest on this topic here.
11-18-2006, 09:15 PM
#17
It wasn't a dig at anyone, just a request for a bit of clarification.
The analogy seems to help people visualize the concept, even if it's a bit "off", it's a start.
We've run drilled rotors (drilled, drilled and slotted and just slotted) them on the AV8SS (American V8 Supercar Series) car and also in AIX (American Iron Extreme) and other series. My experience has been that for the track application, blanks or minimally slotted rotors work best (fully caged race car on a track in sanctioned events). But we don't do slots like many are used to. The rotors we use are typically from Wilwood or Coleman and use 3 short slots (that overlap slightly) that are 180 degrees apart. Meaning, there are only 2 sets of these slots on the disk face and not the standard "radial" pattern that we commonly see on these cars. They don't chew up pads as quickly as the radial design and they still manage to remove the used pad material from the pad/rotor interface. Drilled rotors just chewed up pads and cracked for us (again, track use).
If you are running a pad wildly outside its temperature range, you could see some outgassing, but you should only see that the first time you get them red hot. Once they've seen a good thermal cycle that's hot enough to cause them to outgas, they should be cured and not do it again. If you're seeing it repeatedly (or were), I'd suspect you had pad fade or were boiling the fluid. When fluid boils, you get some friction, but it's greatly reduced because you can are asking gas under pressure to transfer the clamping energy to the pads. Since gas is compressable, you lose a large majority of your braking ability. If you are running a very aggressive race pad, you might find that the car will still slow at a moderate pace (since the pads have so much bite), but not anywhere close to the deceleration rate you can achieve with the system working properly.
The Eradispeeds are very well made rotors. My personal opinion is that it's a shame that Baer only sells them drilled full of holes. If we could get them as blanks, they'd very likely be a great rotor for track use (though custom rotors from Coleman are probably still cheaper).
The analogy seems to help people visualize the concept, even if it's a bit "off", it's a start.
We've run drilled rotors (drilled, drilled and slotted and just slotted) them on the AV8SS (American V8 Supercar Series) car and also in AIX (American Iron Extreme) and other series. My experience has been that for the track application, blanks or minimally slotted rotors work best (fully caged race car on a track in sanctioned events). But we don't do slots like many are used to. The rotors we use are typically from Wilwood or Coleman and use 3 short slots (that overlap slightly) that are 180 degrees apart. Meaning, there are only 2 sets of these slots on the disk face and not the standard "radial" pattern that we commonly see on these cars. They don't chew up pads as quickly as the radial design and they still manage to remove the used pad material from the pad/rotor interface. Drilled rotors just chewed up pads and cracked for us (again, track use).
If you are running a pad wildly outside its temperature range, you could see some outgassing, but you should only see that the first time you get them red hot. Once they've seen a good thermal cycle that's hot enough to cause them to outgas, they should be cured and not do it again. If you're seeing it repeatedly (or were), I'd suspect you had pad fade or were boiling the fluid. When fluid boils, you get some friction, but it's greatly reduced because you can are asking gas under pressure to transfer the clamping energy to the pads. Since gas is compressable, you lose a large majority of your braking ability. If you are running a very aggressive race pad, you might find that the car will still slow at a moderate pace (since the pads have so much bite), but not anywhere close to the deceleration rate you can achieve with the system working properly.
The Eradispeeds are very well made rotors. My personal opinion is that it's a shame that Baer only sells them drilled full of holes. If we could get them as blanks, they'd very likely be a great rotor for track use (though custom rotors from Coleman are probably still cheaper).
11-20-2006, 02:26 PM
#18
Copy & Paste Moderator
Originally Posted by Ouija
I've gone through most of what you posted and it all supports my statement.
Originally Posted by Ouija
I'm going to ignore your emoticon and pretend that you weren't trying to insult me and my viewpoint, that you were just stating you disagree with my statements even though your links fully support what I said.
emoticon and pretend that you weren't trying to insult me and my viewpoint, that you were just stating you disagree with my statements even though your links fully support what I said.
Originally Posted by Ouija
I'm also choosing to assume that either I didn't make it clear enough or you didn't read my statement fully. Please re-read my paragraph and you will see that I stated most people don't need them, they are "typically" for show, and there are probably other alternatives that work just as good.
Originally Posted by Ouija
Part of stating that most people won't ever need them is also admitting that they do have some benefits.
Originally Posted by Ouija
You just have to remember all the hype uneducated individuals state about them is not true.
(BTW, im not taking a jab at you.)
I didnt want to have to type all this again so I just posted the link.
Back to your reference to the holes aiding in cooling...they dont. The cooling is from the internal vanes. Take a look at brake ducts. Brake ducts aim the air at the back of the rotor where it enters the rear open center and exits at the open outer edge.
The manufacturers even admit that cross-drilling is only for looks. The thread to which I linked contains links to the manufacturers websites where they admit to it.
If you want better braking get...
* larger blank rotors
* calipers that can provide greater/more even force and use larger pads
* more aggresive pads
* better brake fluid
* wider & sticker tires
(yes, tires. they are your car's actual contact with the ground)
* If your car has rubber brake lines replace them with braided lines.
(I put this one in there, but the jury is out on their effectiveness on the 4th gen f-body due to claims that the stock lines have an internal braid. Can anyone confirm/refute this? pics?)
Im not trying to be rude (but I probably am).
Last edited by VIP1; 11-20-2006 at 08:42 PM.
11-20-2006, 03:41 PM
#19
Baer racing has a FAQ's section. In there, they state the following:
The link is not a direct link, go here:
http://www.baer.com/#
Go to "Baer tech".
Then click on FAQ's.
That comes back to running street pads beyond their temp range (as I already stated).
Will slotting or cross-drilling my stock rotors improve my car's stopping performance?
DEFINITELY NOT! Crossdrilled or slotted rotors do produce a strong visual appeal behind a modern open wheel, and they do have a performance edge when pad outgassing occurs. Outgassing occurs at extreme temperatures when the bonding agents that hold the pad material together break down into a gas form. This gas creates a pneumatic barrier between the rotor and the pad, reducing friction. Crossdrilling or slotting creates a path for the outgassing that occurs during extreme braking conditions. However, these conditions can virtually never be reached on the street! Short of a complete system, performance brake pads, a proper Teflon lined braided stainless steel hose set and quality brake fluids are the only direct replacement upgrades that can be combined to deliver measurable stopping improvements in the context of direct replacement components on the OE brake system.
DEFINITELY NOT! Crossdrilled or slotted rotors do produce a strong visual appeal behind a modern open wheel, and they do have a performance edge when pad outgassing occurs. Outgassing occurs at extreme temperatures when the bonding agents that hold the pad material together break down into a gas form. This gas creates a pneumatic barrier between the rotor and the pad, reducing friction. Crossdrilling or slotting creates a path for the outgassing that occurs during extreme braking conditions. However, these conditions can virtually never be reached on the street! Short of a complete system, performance brake pads, a proper Teflon lined braided stainless steel hose set and quality brake fluids are the only direct replacement upgrades that can be combined to deliver measurable stopping improvements in the context of direct replacement components on the OE brake system.
http://www.baer.com/#
Go to "Baer tech".
Then click on FAQ's.
That comes back to running street pads beyond their temp range (as I already stated).
Last edited by trackbird; 11-20-2006 at 03:48 PM.
11-20-2006, 07:07 PM
#20
12 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
VIP, thanks for the latest reply. :thumbup:
Trackbird, and VIP, I appreciate all the input.
I believe we're agreeing on at least 80% of things, perhaps wording a few sections a little differently, and only disagreeing on about 10% of the points.
I had never taken into consideration boiling the brake fluid, nor braided brake lines.
I do think most people purchase cross drilled for aesthetic purposes, and most will never need them to assist with out gassing. I also can see how it's more effective to buy a cheaper (cost wise) rotor, and a better pad, instead of compensating for an inferior pad with a costly rotor to help with out gassing which you should never have happen.
It doesn't make sense to spend $800 on rotors and keep using $80 pads, but I'll stand by my statement that the cross drilling helps with out gassing when using cheap pads. (Not that you should ever drive a car to those conditions, you should get the right pads for the job if you going to do it!)
Again, thanks for the input!
(Oh, and for the record, last person that came to me asking about better brakes, we got some blanks, and upgraded pads.)
Trackbird, and VIP, I appreciate all the input.
I believe we're agreeing on at least 80% of things, perhaps wording a few sections a little differently, and only disagreeing on about 10% of the points.
I had never taken into consideration boiling the brake fluid, nor braided brake lines.
I do think most people purchase cross drilled for aesthetic purposes, and most will never need them to assist with out gassing. I also can see how it's more effective to buy a cheaper (cost wise) rotor, and a better pad, instead of compensating for an inferior pad with a costly rotor to help with out gassing which you should never have happen.
It doesn't make sense to spend $800 on rotors and keep using $80 pads, but I'll stand by my statement that the cross drilling helps with out gassing when using cheap pads. (Not that you should ever drive a car to those conditions, you should get the right pads for the job if you going to do it!)
Again, thanks for the input!
(Oh, and for the record, last person that came to me asking about better brakes, we got some blanks, and upgraded pads.)