Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
- Camaro and Firebird Why is Brake Light On<br>Guide to diagnose trouble and recommended solutions.
Abs Inop, Brake Light, Trac Off
#181
Launching!
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
There is a company that rebuilds the EBCM for around $160, with a 5 year warranty. PM me if you want the website. Im about to send mine off as well
Last edited by Adam1982; 07-03-2010 at 08:34 PM. Reason: cant spell the word "if"
#183
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My car started doing this after I got a rear axle replaced due to a wheel bearing chewing through it. I bought it back to the same shop with the problem, and they determined it was a ball bearing that got stuck to my wheel sensor (since it's magnetic), causing the problem. They cleaned it off, and now it runs like normal and I haven't seen the problem since.
#184
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Had the same problem on my 95 z28 and same deal on my 98. The brakes work fine but the brake and abs light says lit on the dash. Took the dash bezel out and "installed" two slices of electrical tape.
#185
Launching!
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Bourbon Country
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well, as I stated before, the ABS and ASR lights were on in my 01 SS, so I started asking around and had a friend who works for GM plug the computer in and found out the brain in the ABS controller was bad. I got on eBay and started looking for gently used controllers. Since the controller itself is a PIA to change unless you have the computer GM uses to bleed the box, I did one of the simplest fixes. Just take the "brain" off using a T20 torx bit and simply replaced it. Reset the computer by leaving the battery disconnected for 2 minutes, and now it works perfect with no lights! Hopefully this will help anyone else who has this problem.... I also did some research and found out that the box itself rarely ever goes bad, its always the brain.
#186
On The Tree
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Always thought it was my EBCM but finally got it scanned to confirm it. Still havent had the time or money to fix it. Also my cruise control doesnt work ether. Did any of you notice yours not working while all the lights were on. I dont know if the cruise control and the traction control are linked (meaning one doesnt work the other one wont work ether). Just wondering.
#187
Launching!
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Bourbon Country
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My cruise control was still working. Like I said in my previous post, you can buy a working used one or have the brain on your rebuilt for 150 bucks. I ended up getting my EBCM for 68 bucks shipped. Took the 6 torx screws off and unplugged it, and just replaced the electronic component. Worked fine. The labor on changing one of those out is stupid expensive, so this is an effective and very cheap way to fix the problem. Check all your wheel sensors (especially the back) to make sure there is no built up metallic slag, as this will set both lights off too. hope this helps!
#188
Teching In
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Last year I had the problem with the LOW TRAC/ABS INOP/ ASR OFF lights coming on all at the same time on my 2002 Z28. Typically they would come on after 5-10 minutes of driving. Maybe less so in the cooler weather. It was almost like the module was failing once it heated up.
I had the ABS Module (EBCM) rebuilt for around $150 and it's been completely fine ever since. It's fairly easy to remove the EBCM and you can continue to drive your car while it's sent out for service.
Here is an ABS troubleshooting wizard that might help some isolate the problem and determine whether or not it might be the module.
http://www.modulemaster.com/en/wizard/index.php
Regards,
Kevin
I had the ABS Module (EBCM) rebuilt for around $150 and it's been completely fine ever since. It's fairly easy to remove the EBCM and you can continue to drive your car while it's sent out for service.
Here is an ABS troubleshooting wizard that might help some isolate the problem and determine whether or not it might be the module.
http://www.modulemaster.com/en/wizard/index.php
Regards,
Kevin
#189
12 Second Club
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So, just wondering, cpuld this be maybe having to do with running staggered wheels? I rune 315/30/18 MTs in the rear and 275/40/18s up front, thinkin it might have something to do with it. I know my abs still works, asr wont, and obviously the e-brake isnt on when the lights come on. Im probably just gonna do some electrical tap mods when i get back from afganistan!!
#190
11 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sterling Heights, MI
Posts: 2,215
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So, just wondering, cpuld this be maybe having to do with running staggered wheels? I rune 315/30/18 MTs in the rear and 275/40/18s up front, thinkin it might have something to do with it. I know my abs still works, asr wont, and obviously the e-brake isnt on when the lights come on. Im probably just gonna do some electrical tap mods when i get back from afganistan!!
yes running different sized wheels will cause this. I run 245/40/17s in the front and 295/45/17s in the rear and get the ABS/TCS/BRAKE light, but my ABS actually doesnt work now cuz i deleted everything with my new rear end. MY cruise control always worked
#191
11 Second Club
iTrader: (103)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: South of West Point Iowa
Posts: 2,633
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm running matching 275/40/17's front/back. . . isn't wheel size for me...
How many are running headers? I noticed I never had this issue until I tried shorties... Burned a wire and mended it, but never confirmed continuity. I posted WAY back and although I still have lights in (minus the tape-hide mod) i still have brakes, just no traction control and no ABS. Cars existed for decades without ABS, so I just don't MASH it.
D
How many are running headers? I noticed I never had this issue until I tried shorties... Burned a wire and mended it, but never confirmed continuity. I posted WAY back and although I still have lights in (minus the tape-hide mod) i still have brakes, just no traction control and no ABS. Cars existed for decades without ABS, so I just don't MASH it.
D
#192
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ABS, brake, traction lights all on again. I replaced the EBCM 2 years ago. The rebuild place told me to have the codes read before I sent it back to them under warranty. I went to the stealership today and the codes came up as a bad wheel sensor and bad wiring harness on the right rear. Then the stealer said $500 to replace.
I saw photos of someone that had removed the sensor and just cleaned it up. Is it possible that I don't really need $500 worth of sensors and harnesses? The car stays in garage until we had the flood in Middle Tn. It was moved outside for 3 weeks with a car cover on it. The next time it was started, all the lights were on like it was 2 years ago. Would the moisture change from being outside have anything to do with the wheel sensor? Just coincidence?
I saw photos of someone that had removed the sensor and just cleaned it up. Is it possible that I don't really need $500 worth of sensors and harnesses? The car stays in garage until we had the flood in Middle Tn. It was moved outside for 3 weeks with a car cover on it. The next time it was started, all the lights were on like it was 2 years ago. Would the moisture change from being outside have anything to do with the wheel sensor? Just coincidence?
#193
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Last year I had the problem with the LOW TRAC/ABS INOP/ ASR OFF lights coming on all at the same time on my 2002 Z28. Typically they would come on after 5-10 minutes of driving. Maybe less so in the cooler weather. It was almost like the module was failing once it heated up.
I had the ABS Module (EBCM) rebuilt for around $150 and it's been completely fine ever since. It's fairly easy to remove the EBCM and you can continue to drive your car while it's sent out for service.
Here is an ABS troubleshooting wizard that might help some isolate the problem and determine whether or not it might be the module.
http://www.modulemaster.com/en/wizard/index.php
Regards,
Kevin
I had the ABS Module (EBCM) rebuilt for around $150 and it's been completely fine ever since. It's fairly easy to remove the EBCM and you can continue to drive your car while it's sent out for service.
Here is an ABS troubleshooting wizard that might help some isolate the problem and determine whether or not it might be the module.
http://www.modulemaster.com/en/wizard/index.php
Regards,
Kevin
what type of abs for 99 TA I was thinking it was the Bosh 5.3. mine is Bosh w/ this #1042 3623
I contacted this rebuild place they said them can't rebuild the module on a 99 TA?
I also searched there website and only a Gran prix was available for rebuild.
I am now having this ABS problem however brakes seam to working normal,
I feel the brake pedal is extra firm when stomping the pedal which usally with ABS it fades.
checked the fuse inside engine area it's fine. I've read this thread about an ABS relay I did'nt see this relay where is it located inside the actualle ABS module I also did'nrt see a ABS fuse on the inside fuse block.
checked the third brake light and found one of the two bulbs was blown now I have ABS inop, TCS & brake dash lights to come on?
thanks
Last edited by badmfkr; 08-20-2010 at 06:06 PM.
#194
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (9)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have the fix for this or at least what fixed my system. Hook up a scanner and see where the code is coming from. In my case it was coming from the left front wheel speed sensor and it just so happened that i pulled back the shielding on the connector wiring and the wires were broken. Soldered them together, cleared the code... ALL FIXED!!!
#197
Teching In
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: whittier California
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just thought I would share... I have a 98 LS1 w traction control (4 Channel) and I had the same problem most others hear are having. I noticed that my ABS INOP, Brake, and ASR lights would come on intermittently about six months ago. When it first started it was not an imediate thing, I would start the car (no lights) and within a few miles the lights (mentioned above) would all come on.
Over time the problem persisted but the lights started to come on as soon as I started the vehicle (and it was no longer intermittent) I checked everything I could think of (as many people here did) and had no luck. I changed both front hub bearings (they were starting to make noise) removed and cleaned the rear sensors & checked all wiring.NOTHING.
Then I pulled the electrical connector from the EBCM and noticed that one of the pins looked a bit black and corroded. I used a fine bristle brush and cleaned the area and applied some die-electric grease to the sealing portion of the connector and reassembled. NOTHING.
From there I went about finding a used EBCM (Remember 98's are year specific and you have to also make sure you purchase one with or w/o Trac control) I finally found one for a reasonable price and purchased it.
I didnt want to have to disconnect the brake lines and bleed the system so I put off installing the EBCM and left well enough alone. Then today I was in my garage and stumbled across the box and I began looking at it (EBCM) I noticed that there were 2 halves to the unit. The computer half and the proportioning block half (the part the fluid goes through) They were held together by 6 torx screws. I removed allsix (along with the electrical connector at the bottom) and removed the computer half.
I went outside and did the same with the until that was installed on my car (took about 5 minutes) compared the two (part no.) and then replaced the one I had removed from my car with the used one I had purchased off here. I replaced the 6 torq screws connected the electrical connector,started the car and BOOM! Lights all off!
This job can be completed by most anyone (if you have exhausted all methods of properly diagnosing the problem) and it is relatively inexpensive. I paid $30.00 for the EBCM shipped the torx screwdriver set can be had for 10-15.00 at most any parts store and it takes about 15 minutes (if you really take your time) I have been driving my car for approximately a month and still have no problems and the brakes work great. Hope this helps someone.
Over time the problem persisted but the lights started to come on as soon as I started the vehicle (and it was no longer intermittent) I checked everything I could think of (as many people here did) and had no luck. I changed both front hub bearings (they were starting to make noise) removed and cleaned the rear sensors & checked all wiring.NOTHING.
Then I pulled the electrical connector from the EBCM and noticed that one of the pins looked a bit black and corroded. I used a fine bristle brush and cleaned the area and applied some die-electric grease to the sealing portion of the connector and reassembled. NOTHING.
From there I went about finding a used EBCM (Remember 98's are year specific and you have to also make sure you purchase one with or w/o Trac control) I finally found one for a reasonable price and purchased it.
I didnt want to have to disconnect the brake lines and bleed the system so I put off installing the EBCM and left well enough alone. Then today I was in my garage and stumbled across the box and I began looking at it (EBCM) I noticed that there were 2 halves to the unit. The computer half and the proportioning block half (the part the fluid goes through) They were held together by 6 torx screws. I removed allsix (along with the electrical connector at the bottom) and removed the computer half.
I went outside and did the same with the until that was installed on my car (took about 5 minutes) compared the two (part no.) and then replaced the one I had removed from my car with the used one I had purchased off here. I replaced the 6 torq screws connected the electrical connector,started the car and BOOM! Lights all off!
This job can be completed by most anyone (if you have exhausted all methods of properly diagnosing the problem) and it is relatively inexpensive. I paid $30.00 for the EBCM shipped the torx screwdriver set can be had for 10-15.00 at most any parts store and it takes about 15 minutes (if you really take your time) I have been driving my car for approximately a month and still have no problems and the brakes work great. Hope this helps someone.
#199
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm having the same problem for months now. The 3 lights come on after driving for a while and when the engine is hot they come on immediately.
My 3rd brake light was blown and I changed it but still the same problem. I checked the fuses and they look fine.
Next I want to check if the wheel sensors are fine. How do I check this? How do I know if the sensors are working fine or need to be replaced? Do I need to take the car to a mechanic or I can do it myself (not a car savvy).
My last option is to change the ABS unit (EBCM?). I took the car for a scan and the guy told me I have a "ECU malfunction" which I believe has code C0550? What does this mean?
My 3rd brake light was blown and I changed it but still the same problem. I checked the fuses and they look fine.
Next I want to check if the wheel sensors are fine. How do I check this? How do I know if the sensors are working fine or need to be replaced? Do I need to take the car to a mechanic or I can do it myself (not a car savvy).
My last option is to change the ABS unit (EBCM?). I took the car for a scan and the guy told me I have a "ECU malfunction" which I believe has code C0550? What does this mean?
#200
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had a similiar issue with my car. The ABS lights would randomly come on as I was driving. Before it would only be once a month kind of deal. Then it became once a week and lately it was once every other driving cycle. I got the codes scanned and got C0550 ECU Malfunction and C0896 Device Volatage Rance Performance. I purchased a good 4channel EBCM from a member here and I just swapped out the electronic part. The lights have been off for a week now and I have no problems.
Replacing just the electronic part is easy. You can change it without removing the whole ABS block and you won't have to bleed your brakes or use a TECH2 to cycle the ABS block to bleed your brakes. There are six T20 torx bits that hold the electronic part to the ABS block. It's a little tight to get to the bottom screws but with the right bit drivers it can be swapped out in about 15 minutes.