DUhulk78

Well i figured obviously the three point subframe connectors are better. But are they enough to justify spending another 100 to 120 bucks more than a two point? I'm going to be ordering a set soon, i was just wanting your guys' opinion. Thanks!

DUhulk78

Ttt...

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Hello, whether you decide on a 2 or 3 point connectors make sure that you get weld on connectors. BMR frame connectors are a 2 point connector. We offer weld in only connectors. Our boxed version is stronger than the tubular version. The tubular version is for a car that might have ground clearance issues. Here is a link to our site, and if you have any questions please give us a call. Our tech/sales dept is open MON-FRI 8:30AM- 6:00PM EST. We will be closed friday for the holiday.

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyChassis.htm

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

the only trouble you might have with the 3pt is clearance around the exhaust, if they fit, i would go with 3 point over a 2 point no doubt.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

My motto.... If you think the car is need of SFC's then why not put the stiffest connectors on?

2-points weigh and cost less. They also don't triangulate, and don't offer support to things like tunnel mount TA's like 3-point connectors do. That said, I sell UMI's stuff, and they make both 2 and 3 point connectors in both bolt in and weld in styles (see below).

I don't think either is wrong. I also don't think bolt-ins are bad, and they can in fact be welded in at any time. But they allow you to get SFC's on the car in your own driveway and save a little labor if you want them welded in. Or you can see what you think and decide if you want to weld them in at all.

As for clearance the UMI 3-point have tons of it:

2-pt Boxed, weld-ins: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=22&ModelID=7

2-pt tubular, weld-ins: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=22&ModelID=7

2-pt tubular, bolt-ins: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=22&ModelID=7

3-pt tubular, weld-ins: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=22&ModelID=7

3-pt tubular, bolt-ins: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=22&ModelID=7

Soul TKR

iTrader: (4)

i vote 3pt...

ICRAZY6

iTrader: (68)

I have 2pt BMR boxed. There's no clearence issues. I guess it depends on what type of power your putting down to justify the need for 3pt.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Not saying right or wrong here, but.... There is a whole crowd of folks that think any car, drag raced or not, big power or not, need SFC's to survive.

I'm simply trying to say that if you are of the mindset that the car is a flexible mess and needs SFC's then you need to decide how much "stiffer" you want the car. It's a personal call. I just feel that if you really think you need them why not put on 3-pts? Ok, they cost a few bucks more and that's a consideration, but in the end if you feel the car needs a lot of help $100 for something that will be in place for..... ever isn't a lot of money.

I sell 2's and 3's... A sale is a sale, and it doesn't matter which you were to buy if you bought from me in terms of getting a sale. What does matter to me is that you get the best part for you wants or needs. That might be a 2-pt, it might be a 3. Might be weld-in, could be bolt in. I can't really say. I'm just trying to play devil's advocate so you can think about the pro's and con's.

2 points save you money. 3 points are stiffer.

wXh151

Sam's right. 2 points cost less, and 3 points are stiffer. However, similar to people weling on bolt-in style SFC's, I installed BMR 2 points on my car, and picked up a BMR extreme t/a (tunnel mount). The xta comes with a chassis brace that is welded in, connecting the two SFc's and has a bend in the middle that the exhaust runs on top of (protecting your exhaust as well as adding more rigity to the chassis, like the 3 point design). The torque arm mounts to this cross brace.

first I had TSP true duals on the car, and had to turn the CB so the bend was parellel to the ground so my exhaust could be up close to the body for clearance, and had no issues until I got strange d/a coilovers and lowered the car significantly. Then I switched to hooker ory/supercomp exhaust, and changed the CB so the exhaust ran bodyside of the loop as intended, and have not had any clearance issues with the CB hitting anything.

wan2run

iTrader: (2)

I opted for the 2 point boxed weld-in BMR's a bunch of years ago when Brett still did the work in his driveway. I had always planned on adding the trak pak eventually and just ended up doing it recently. Not knowing what the 3 pts. felt like I didn't feel as if I was missing anything. Back then I was on the stock exhaust...now with the 4-inch Mufflex y-pipe there's no way I could've gone with the 3 pt.

Now I'm completely tied in from one side to the other...would that be a 6 pt. ?

Lotus289

iTrader: (1)

I just did a T-Top conversion on my car and I can feel a HUGE difference after cutting the upper door supports off. Since then I've been looking into SFC's. IMO, the biggest difference between the 2pt and the 3pt is the torsional rigidity. If you you put 2pt SFC's on, your stiffening the car for sure, but I don't think it does much in the way of stopping the car from twisting. Now if you put 3pt SFC's in, you're stopping the twisting because they triangulate the load under the car. If you have just the 2 bars underneath you could still twist them independently being they're not connected. The 3pt solves that.

A friend of mine with an '01 SS (T Top) just put SLP boxed 3pt SFC's on his car and it's a WORLD of difference! Riding in my car, I can feel the entire *** end of the car bouncing around behind me and you can literally feel the car twisting under you. His car rides like a damned Cadillac! You can tell that the chassis is a TON stiffer and the suspension is working a lot better since the chassis is so stable. HUGE difference!

But, I'm no expert, so make you're own decision I guess. As soon as a I scrape up the cash I'm ordering a set of the bolt-in UMI 3pt SFC's.

DUhulk78

Ok well i think all that being said i'm going to go with 3 pt, just cause i might as well get the best i can while i'm doing it. Thanks to everyone for all the input! Especially Sam Strano. Your input was so helpful, i know why so many people swear by you. I appreciate it!

jujofields

Basically along the lines with most people that replied, I say definitely go with the 3 pt!

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

My 2 point UMI's kick ***!!

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

I have the SLP 3 point boxed but will soon switch to the UMI tubulars 3 points due to cleaernce.Either way I would only go 3 point.

NateLS1

iTrader: (4)

Will a 3 point fit a car with TSP true duals?

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Yes they will, you will have no issues at all

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

I would personally stick with the SLPs over UMIs because of how the actual braces connect to the flat points that get welded to the car. Round tube to flat stock just does not look as strong to me as the boxed design of the SLPs with the flat tabs.

Fast_94_Z

iTrader: (12)

3 points. i have a brand new set from umi for sale if interested.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

With thousands of these SFC sets out there, no failures and vehicles running single 1/4 mile times... I do not see this being a issue what so ever.