Torque Wrench
09-10-2006, 01:10 AM
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Torque Wrench Any suggestions on getting a torque wrench?
Was thinking about a 3/4" (because you can slap a reduction adapter on there for lower sizes right), but not sure what brands to trust for such things. I use Stanley tools mainly because i used to work there and got a lot of discounts, but i hear Craftsman are better.
Was thinking about a 3/4" (because you can slap a reduction adapter on there for lower sizes right), but not sure what brands to trust for such things. I use Stanley tools mainly because i used to work there and got a lot of discounts, but i hear Craftsman are better.
09-14-2006, 03:45 PM
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I bought Armstrong torque wrenches for my engine work. They're mid-level priced, and seem to be pretty decent. I bought a 1/2" ->250 ft-lb model, and a 3/8" model. I use the 3/8" a lot more than the half inch. I bought them at http://www.use-enco.com - Armstrong is American Made. 
None of that Chinese crap for me.
Keep in mind that your scaling effects resolution and accuracy. A 10-250 ft-lb torque wrench will "probably" not be as accurate as a 10-100 ft-lb torque wrench when you're trying to hit, say, 74 ft-lbs of torque on the nose.
I have a cheap torque wrench that I use for lug nuts on the race car (it goes to the track with me). I keep the Armstrong ones tucked away in their nice plastic cases on the shelf. The lug nut torque wrench travels in the toolbox.
I've used the Snap On beeping wrench. It's pimp, but twice the $$...
None of that Chinese crap for me.Keep in mind that your scaling effects resolution and accuracy. A 10-250 ft-lb torque wrench will "probably" not be as accurate as a 10-100 ft-lb torque wrench when you're trying to hit, say, 74 ft-lbs of torque on the nose.
I have a cheap torque wrench that I use for lug nuts on the race car (it goes to the track with me). I keep the Armstrong ones tucked away in their nice plastic cases on the shelf. The lug nut torque wrench travels in the toolbox.
I've used the Snap On beeping wrench. It's pimp, but twice the $$...
09-14-2006, 04:16 PM
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I can't think of anything you'd need a 3/4" wrench for on a car- like what was said above, you'd be better off getting a 1/2" for big stuff like the harmonic balencer bolt, heads, etc. and a 3/8" for smaller things. You might also want a degree wheel as I know lots of torque specs use degrees as a final method of tightening.
09-14-2006, 04:58 PM
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I've had bad luck with "clicker" type wrenches. They drift
out without you knowing. At least an old style beam
wrench, you can see if it's bent and nothing much to
go out of cal on that unless you remove metal. I have a
short dial type around here somewhere too, which seems
stout enough but still a gizmo inside.
Of course anything but a clicker you have to be in the
right position, to read.
Somebody ought to make a talking torque wrench.
Yeah. "Just a little more, baby. Oh. Oh! Yes! Stop!
Ow!"
out without you knowing. At least an old style beam
wrench, you can see if it's bent and nothing much to
go out of cal on that unless you remove metal. I have a
short dial type around here somewhere too, which seems
stout enough but still a gizmo inside.
Of course anything but a clicker you have to be in the
right position, to read.
Somebody ought to make a talking torque wrench.
Yeah. "Just a little more, baby. Oh. Oh! Yes! Stop!
Ow!"
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09-14-2006, 09:26 PM
#8
I hate tech wrenches... Im sure their good I just dont like the way they feel in my hand when you have reached torque.. nothing like the good old positive click from a micrometer wrench... I have a Mac inch pounds along with a 20 to 100 ft lbs Snap on whatever to 250 and a snap on inch pounds turning torque wrench.... you wont need any 3/4 drive unless your a diesel mechanic
