Wiring, Stereo & Electronics Audio Components | Radars | Alarms - and things that spark when they shouldn't

Window motor issue

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-13-2013, 05:04 PM
  #1  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
 
Rednaxela's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Window motor issue

I have a 2002 Camaro with what I believe to be a failing driver side window motor. The window moves at a very slow speed, and can only move 3-4 inches at a time without completely stalling. I usually have to wait around 5 minutes for the window to become semi-functional again.

Does this indicate a failing window motor? Or is it something else?

Thank you.
Old 07-14-2013, 07:02 AM
  #2  
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
 
wssix99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 12,745
Received 349 Likes on 319 Posts

Default

Its a failing thermal cutoff switch inside the motor. You should stop using it and replace it with a brand new Dorman unit before it totally dies on you and won't go up at all.
Old 07-15-2013, 09:17 PM
  #3  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Blackpanther99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Baytown, TX
Posts: 6,963
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Yup^! You can get a new one on Autozone with lifetime warranty as well.
Old 07-16-2013, 11:42 AM
  #4  
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
 
jimmyblue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Central Florida
Posts: 12,604
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

I just pulled mine, disassembled the motor, soldered
some copper braid across the switch and put it back.
All good. Greased up the track, gears and guts for
luck.
Old 07-16-2013, 06:32 PM
  #5  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
 
Rednaxela's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by wssix99
Its a failing thermal cutoff switch inside the motor. You should stop using it and replace it with a brand new Dorman unit before it totally dies on you and won't go up at all.
Thanks! I appreciate it.
Old 07-16-2013, 06:36 PM
  #6  
Banned
iTrader: (1)
 
"MAC"'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chattanooga Tn
Posts: 1,352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

yup i had to replace mine 3 times already and i still need to replace both of them this time ive come to the conclusion these motors suck
Old 07-16-2013, 07:54 PM
  #7  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (11)
 
SparkyJJO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 7,195
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 9 Posts

Default

I highly recommend using the shbox method for changing the motor and not removing the entire window regulator unit like the manuals say to do. Been there, done that, trust me you don't want to screw around with that regulator if you don't have to!
Old 07-16-2013, 11:54 PM
  #8  
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
 
wssix99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 12,745
Received 349 Likes on 319 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by "MAC"
yup i had to replace mine 3 times already and i still need to replace both of them this time ive come to the conclusion these motors suck
That's what happens when a part first installed in a 1969 car is kept on the shelf and installed in a late 90's machine.


BTW - short circuiting the thermal cutoff switch should also be done with disabling the auto-down feature of the window. If not done, the auto-down module will keep the motor energized for a while after its finished its movement, putting additional stress on the motor and door.
Old 07-17-2013, 09:38 PM
  #9  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
 
'00_Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: holding down the couch
Posts: 1,458
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by wssix99
Its a failing thermal cutoff switch inside the motor. You should stop using it and replace it with a brand new Dorman unit before it totally dies on you and won't go up at all.
+1

Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
I highly recommend using the shbox method for changing the motor and not removing the entire window regulator unit like the manuals say to do. Been there, done that, trust me you don't want to screw around with that regulator if you don't have to!
Just finished mine today and other than having to do it in the driveway with no shade when its 97 out it was not that bad. The hardest part was lining up the right holes but it just took a few wiggles. I did use longer screws but it wasn't necessary. And don't forget to loctite them! I've been putting this off for a long time but now I'm going to do the pass side. Plus now I have a reason to upgrade the door speakers and add some dynamat..
Old 07-21-2013, 07:29 PM
  #10  
Launching!
 
s7ven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by jimmyblue
I just pulled mine, disassembled the motor, soldered
some copper braid across the switch and put it back.
All good. Greased up the track, gears and guts for
luck.
This worked well for me. I didn't disable the auto-down feature though, I'm just careful to tap the window up slightly after it hits bottom. I think as long as you don't have someone holding down any of the buttons for a long period of time then you shouldn't have a problem.
Old 07-21-2013, 08:35 PM
  #11  
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
 
wssix99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 12,745
Received 349 Likes on 319 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by s7ven
This worked well for me.
I think you also need to decide how long you are going to keep the car. Nothing has gone wrong so far, so the fix is going well. Will you think the same thing if the regulator rivets rip through the door in 5 years? In 10?
Old 07-21-2013, 08:55 PM
  #12  
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
 
BlackBetty99SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Wichita Falls, TX
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

My driver window motor is out but I remember the nightmare I had on my 96 pass side. My A/V works so I will just deal w it til weather is nicer. More info on this 'shbox' method?? I did the reg pull last time ....thx
Old 07-29-2013, 07:29 PM
  #13  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
 
'00_Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: holding down the couch
Posts: 1,458
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

honestly, changing the motor was easy. it took longer to pull the panel off and drill out the access holes for the rivets. and if you're going to go thru the trouble to pull the motor out in the first place why not just spend $25 and replace it?



Quick Reply: Window motor issue



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:13 PM.