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Window motor issue

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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 05:04 PM
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Default Window motor issue

I have a 2002 Camaro with what I believe to be a failing driver side window motor. The window moves at a very slow speed, and can only move 3-4 inches at a time without completely stalling. I usually have to wait around 5 minutes for the window to become semi-functional again.

Does this indicate a failing window motor? Or is it something else?

Thank you.
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 07:02 AM
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Its a failing thermal cutoff switch inside the motor. You should stop using it and replace it with a brand new Dorman unit before it totally dies on you and won't go up at all.
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Old Jul 15, 2013 | 09:17 PM
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Yup^! You can get a new one on Autozone with lifetime warranty as well.
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Old Jul 16, 2013 | 11:42 AM
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I just pulled mine, disassembled the motor, soldered
some copper braid across the switch and put it back.
All good. Greased up the track, gears and guts for
luck.
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Old Jul 16, 2013 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
Its a failing thermal cutoff switch inside the motor. You should stop using it and replace it with a brand new Dorman unit before it totally dies on you and won't go up at all.
Thanks! I appreciate it.
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Old Jul 16, 2013 | 06:36 PM
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yup i had to replace mine 3 times already and i still need to replace both of them this time ive come to the conclusion these motors suck
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Old Jul 16, 2013 | 07:54 PM
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I highly recommend using the shbox method for changing the motor and not removing the entire window regulator unit like the manuals say to do. Been there, done that, trust me you don't want to screw around with that regulator if you don't have to!
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Old Jul 16, 2013 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by "MAC"
yup i had to replace mine 3 times already and i still need to replace both of them this time ive come to the conclusion these motors suck
That's what happens when a part first installed in a 1969 car is kept on the shelf and installed in a late 90's machine.


BTW - short circuiting the thermal cutoff switch should also be done with disabling the auto-down feature of the window. If not done, the auto-down module will keep the motor energized for a while after its finished its movement, putting additional stress on the motor and door.
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
Its a failing thermal cutoff switch inside the motor. You should stop using it and replace it with a brand new Dorman unit before it totally dies on you and won't go up at all.
+1

Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
I highly recommend using the shbox method for changing the motor and not removing the entire window regulator unit like the manuals say to do. Been there, done that, trust me you don't want to screw around with that regulator if you don't have to!
Just finished mine today and other than having to do it in the driveway with no shade when its 97 out it was not that bad. The hardest part was lining up the right holes but it just took a few wiggles. I did use longer screws but it wasn't necessary. And don't forget to loctite them! I've been putting this off for a long time but now I'm going to do the pass side. Plus now I have a reason to upgrade the door speakers and add some dynamat..
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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue
I just pulled mine, disassembled the motor, soldered
some copper braid across the switch and put it back.
All good. Greased up the track, gears and guts for
luck.
This worked well for me. I didn't disable the auto-down feature though, I'm just careful to tap the window up slightly after it hits bottom. I think as long as you don't have someone holding down any of the buttons for a long period of time then you shouldn't have a problem.
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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by s7ven
This worked well for me.
I think you also need to decide how long you are going to keep the car. Nothing has gone wrong so far, so the fix is going well. Will you think the same thing if the regulator rivets rip through the door in 5 years? In 10?
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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 08:55 PM
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My driver window motor is out but I remember the nightmare I had on my 96 pass side. My A/V works so I will just deal w it til weather is nicer. More info on this 'shbox' method?? I did the reg pull last time ....thx
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 07:29 PM
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honestly, changing the motor was easy. it took longer to pull the panel off and drill out the access holes for the rivets. and if you're going to go thru the trouble to pull the motor out in the first place why not just spend $25 and replace it?
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