Ask a Professional Detailer
Do not use Simple green. It will cause the threads to break down.
Some Folex or Meg's APC+ is what I would use. then treat the leather after you are done, but don't get the leather dressing on the threads, or it will cause them to quickly get dirty again.
Black Ws6 with lots of swirl marks on front bumper, and I'd love to restore the paint to original showroom finish.
Will zaino products get me there? If so, what do you recommend, or if not, what's similar along the same price point?
Will zaino products get me there? If so, what do you recommend, or if not, what's similar along the same price point?
Will you be doing this by hand or machine? You can only do so much by hand.
Make sure you blot and don't scrub and definitely don't use any sort of brush. You can fray/year the stitching very easily. Whatever you use make sure it's diluted correctly. If the cleaner is too harsh it can pull the color out and it will set in places you don't want.
Edit: I've also read that the Porter Cable DAis an excellent choice, but for twice the $$ is it worth it?
Make sure you blot and don't scrub and definitely don't use any sort of brush. You can fray/year the stitching very easily. Whatever you use make sure it's diluted correctly. If the cleaner is too harsh it can pull the color out and it will set in places you don't want.
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 423
Likes: 0
2 issues -
1- when you remove emblems from the exterior of the car, I know how to rid of the double sided tape but how do you remove the I'll call it ghost image (when you are washing the car and hit that spot with the hose where the emblem was, you can still see it as if the emblem just came off. Maybe buffing compound, clay bar?
2- Interior panels(plastic)- what is good for cleaning these up, I picked up a set of beige panels, not too bad, just want to clean them up without damaging them. Magic eraser pad?
Thanks for any assistance you can offer.
1- when you remove emblems from the exterior of the car, I know how to rid of the double sided tape but how do you remove the I'll call it ghost image (when you are washing the car and hit that spot with the hose where the emblem was, you can still see it as if the emblem just came off. Maybe buffing compound, clay bar?
2- Interior panels(plastic)- what is good for cleaning these up, I picked up a set of beige panels, not too bad, just want to clean them up without damaging them. Magic eraser pad?
Thanks for any assistance you can offer.
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Verdad Gallardo Likely going to be buying a harbor freight 6" dual action polisher. Pads of choice, whether they be Lake County, Adams, etc, will be based on advice I receive here.
Edit: I've also read that the Porter Cable DAis an excellent choice, but for twice the $$ is it worth it?
Edit: I've also read that the Porter Cable DAis an excellent choice, but for twice the $$ is it worth it?
2 issues -
1- when you remove emblems from the exterior of the car, I know how to rid of the double sided tape but how do you remove the I'll call it ghost image (when you are washing the car and hit that spot with the hose where the emblem was, you can still see it as if the emblem just came off. Maybe buffing compound, clay bar?
2- Interior panels(plastic)- what is good for cleaning these up, I picked up a set of beige panels, not too bad, just want to clean them up without damaging them. Magic eraser pad?
Thanks for any assistance you can offer.
1- when you remove emblems from the exterior of the car, I know how to rid of the double sided tape but how do you remove the I'll call it ghost image (when you are washing the car and hit that spot with the hose where the emblem was, you can still see it as if the emblem just came off. Maybe buffing compound, clay bar?
2- Interior panels(plastic)- what is good for cleaning these up, I picked up a set of beige panels, not too bad, just want to clean them up without damaging them. Magic eraser pad?
Thanks for any assistance you can offer.
In regards to your question on the interior, I would pick up some Meguiar's APC and clean them up. Adams also has an APC that is pretty good. If it is light dirt some Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer should work. It offers light cleaning.
When using a DA polisher, for a beginner, do you suggest a good wash, clay bar, followed by Meguires Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish, then a wax (liquid or paste here)?
OR
Wash, clay bar, m105, m205, then m21 to seal?
Going with a 5" flexible urethane backing pad and 5.5" Lake Country pads (orange, white, black) unless you suggest otherwise.
This will be my first attempt with a DA and paint correction. Car isn't bad at all, I'm just looking for show room finish
OR
Wash, clay bar, m105, m205, then m21 to seal?
Going with a 5" flexible urethane backing pad and 5.5" Lake Country pads (orange, white, black) unless you suggest otherwise.
This will be my first attempt with a DA and paint correction. Car isn't bad at all, I'm just looking for show room finish
I have the harbor freight one and it works just fine for me. If you were to get into the business of detailing cars and using it every weekend, invest in the nicer porter cable. If you're just doing your car every now and then, the HF will fill that need nicely.
When using a DA polisher, for a beginner, do you suggest a good wash, clay bar, followed by Meguires Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish, then a wax (liquid or paste here)?
OR
Wash, clay bar, m105, m205, then m21 to seal?
Going with a 5" flexible urethane backing pad and 5.5" Lake Country pads (orange, white, black) unless you suggest otherwise.
This will be my first attempt with a DA and paint correction. Car isn't bad at all, I'm just looking for show room finish
OR
Wash, clay bar, m105, m205, then m21 to seal?
Going with a 5" flexible urethane backing pad and 5.5" Lake Country pads (orange, white, black) unless you suggest otherwise.
This will be my first attempt with a DA and paint correction. Car isn't bad at all, I'm just looking for show room finish
1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Test spot - Do a test spot with the least aggressive combo. ie UP with a polishing pad or M205 with a polishing pad. M205 offers more correction than UP while UP offers more polishing oils.
4. Compound - Depends on the test spot. Let the paint tell you what it needs.
5. Polish
6. Protect - Your choice of wax or sealant here.
7. Maintain
I would recommend M205 over UP. I would get ultimate compound and try that first if you need to compound. If you need a more aggressive compound then go with M105. Just be aware that M105 has a slight learning curve and less working time than UC. It also dusts a bit more. The paint is typically on the hard side on these cars.Again the test spot will tell you a lot.
You can protect with a wax or sealant. It's up to you on what you are looking for. Sealants offer longer protection where as carnauba's offer that warm look. Some even apply a sealant and top with a wax to get the best of both worlds. M21/M26 is a popular combo and it looks great. As does Ultimate Wax/M26.
Also you can mix and match these Meguiar's products. Meaning you can use pro and consumer together.
Yeah I know what you mean. It was a great product. Too bad they discontinued it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...black-ws6.html
As mentioned get the 5.5 pads for the PC or HF polisher. Neither have enough power to control the larger pads adequately. You have to run the machine on a high speed to get any decent pad rotation but the higher speeds doesn't allow the pad to change direction smoothly. This isn't as big of deal when you are doing the compounding step but counter productive when polishing.
LC flat pads
Buff and Shine
Meg's MF discs
all are a good pads to start out on
"Typically" I will use MF discs for the compounding step and foam for the polishing.
Meg's M105, M205 and D300 are great to start out with. That's what I started out with and still use them a lot.
Menzerna also has amazing compounds/polishes but they are diminishing abrasives compared to Meg's which are non diminishing or SMAT. Both are great but you work them differently.
LC flat pads
Buff and Shine
Meg's MF discs
all are a good pads to start out on
"Typically" I will use MF discs for the compounding step and foam for the polishing.
Meg's M105, M205 and D300 are great to start out with. That's what I started out with and still use them a lot.
Menzerna also has amazing compounds/polishes but they are diminishing abrasives compared to Meg's which are non diminishing or SMAT. Both are great but you work them differently.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Leesburg, VA
Ask a Professional Detailer Thanks for this thread!
I just removed the side molding on my '02 TA. Long story short the drivers door molding was replaced by Carmax 2 1/2 years ago and I just found their mess up. It looks like it's down to the base coat, will I just be able to use touch up paint for this? And will wet sanding work for the line that goes straight across? Any answers/opinions are greatly appreciated, thanks!
I just removed the side molding on my '02 TA. Long story short the drivers door molding was replaced by Carmax 2 1/2 years ago and I just found their mess up. It looks like it's down to the base coat, will I just be able to use touch up paint for this? And will wet sanding work for the line that goes straight across? Any answers/opinions are greatly appreciated, thanks!
Thanks for this thread!
I just removed the side molding on my '02 TA. Long story short the drivers door molding was replaced by Carmax 2 1/2 years ago and I just found their mess up. It looks like it's down to the base coat, will I just be able to use touch up paint for this? And will wet sanding work for the line that goes straight across? Any answers/opinions are greatly appreciated, thanks!
I just removed the side molding on my '02 TA. Long story short the drivers door molding was replaced by Carmax 2 1/2 years ago and I just found their mess up. It looks like it's down to the base coat, will I just be able to use touch up paint for this? And will wet sanding work for the line that goes straight across? Any answers/opinions are greatly appreciated, thanks!