So to kick this off I've got a 96 blazer that I put a new tranny in it a lil over 2 years ago now. 4l60e with electronic t case (Less than 5k on rebuild). I got the "build" sheet with the new parts that were installed and I haven't seen much from looking around, at about what power it may hold now. Little background info, had an 05 sierra rcsb did simple bolt ons to and dynoed 330whp. Of course 4l60e, now I put maybe 2 or 3k miles on it before I unfortunately had an accident which totaled it. (Please do your dot pre-trip inspection) Now the little time I had with that truck, with that power level it held up just fine never noticed anything weird or causes for concern. I planned out what that truck was gonna be and what I was gonna do to it. 4l80e swap to handle the power of a turbo 6.0 a little better. Now I have a lq4 6.0 in a SC Step Side 92 k1500. The issue is, its a getrag or hm 290 5-speed. Ain't gonna hold power for much longer, I love the manual trans only put maybe 40 miles on it since its been built or swapped per say.

Main Point Here!!
With what's been done to the 4l60e in my blazer should I put that behind the lq4 or wait and upgrade to a 4l80e. I would like to upgrade the 80e to a manual valve body, 34 element sprag and a couple other goodies to get it up to snuff for when I eventually get that damn turbo manifolds mocked up and welded up. I'll likely need a new driveshaft made either way, and a new trans k member. Will I be able to get away with running my 60e for a little while without boost or just go to the 80e right away, so I can run boost when everything is ready? I'll post the build sheet shortly below this.

 

 

Looks like your basic stock rebuild. What engine was in front of this trans originally?

 

A normal 4.3 v6. I've heard horror stories of 4l60e trans and I've heard them holding up just fine. My cousin had a 97 k1500 350 and beat the hell out of his truck just shy of 300k on body, supposed stock trans also. Up here the kbody series trucks are all over and same with the 99 to 07 body style silverados and sierras. Plans are to take the 92 k1500 I mentioned earlier into a street strip truck. Something to have fun with and keep around for a while. Want streetability, able to drive it for 30+ minutes or more.

 

I don't think the 4.3 v6 4L60e is a direct bolt-up to a LS style engine. Read this thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...thing-all.html just a few below yours.

Also the V6 transmissions are not built from the factory to handle V8 torque. Their clutch packs have fewer clutches. A V6 trans can be built to the same level as a V8 trans, they just don’t come that way. I would not use the V6 trans in this application. If you are going to use a turbo 6.0 engine, just go ahead and use a 4L80e and be done with it.

 

As Far as Power Adders go, Turbochargers are the most forgiving on your Power-Train Components.

I will us a 4L80E Transmission that I build for a 1,000 HP/ 1,000 Ft/Lbs Normally-Aspirated Rating.
When a Power-Adder is being used to make that 1,000 HP/ 1,000 Ft/Lbs, I will change the 1,000 HP/ 1,000 Ft/Lbs Rating for the Transmission.

When Nitrous-Oxide is being used to make the 1,000 HP/ 1,000 Ft/Lbs, I lower the Transmission Rating...
To about 700-750 (depending on how much Nitrous-Oxide is being used vs how much Power the Engine produces on its own).

When a Supercharger is being used to make the 1,000 HP/ 1,000 Ft/Lbs, I lower the Transmission Rating...
To about 850-900 (depending on how much Boost-Pressure is being made vs how much Power the Engine produces on its own).

However!
When a Turbocharger is being used to make the 1,000 HP/ 1,000 Ft/Lbs, I raise the Transmission Rating...
To about 1,200 (depending on how much Boost-Pressure is being made vs how much Power the Engine produces on its own).

Nitrous-Oxide can be extremely violent/ harsh on your Power-Train Components.
A Supercharger is considerably less Stress/ Strain on your Power-Train Components.

And a Turbocharger is actually rather gentile by comparison to the other 2 Power-Adders.

 

@vorteciroc I feel blessed by your knowledge and experience, being an engineer for the transmissions or a division member your input is quite nice to have. Do you have any experience in 4l80e transmissions. I would love to build my own to 1 save a couple bucks, 2 I love the fact of knowing I put it together and its runs, and 3 end of the day gratification for me every time I drive it would be awesome. I haven't looked into building them yet and I'm quite, I guess you could say scared or I'd like to say aware of the fact I could mess something up not knowing exactly what I'm doing. Are those books any good that they have on them for rebuilding worth it. Any special tools that I should be aware of beforehand. Its a lot to ask for and I'll check the other forums or posts to find any help, but if you have a link to any good posts that'd be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks Reaper!


Do I have any experience with 4L80E Transmissions?
Hmmm....

I'm not sure (the Old Brain not workin' so good)...
Maybe some of the Other Members can help me on this one?

 

Currently filing my taxes, eating dinner, and listening / watching the playlist from LT Lawrence? on his rebuild series for the 4l80e just to get an idea of what's going on. Watching the 2nd video and I've noticed it'd be nice to have a bench vice, bearing puller tool, oh yea a tranny stand would be nice too and a jack press? (vertically imposed jack on table to press stuff together or drive them out out) Definitely getting a rough idea of what's going on.

 

Arguably just as important, or even more so, than the "specialty" tools needed, is a large, CLEAN(!!!) work area to lay everything out during disassembly and reassembly. Seems simple enough, but if you're anything like me and already working with limited and/or a cluttered area designated for "tinkering with my toys" as my wife puts it, suddenly finding a large, clean area can become difficult when the time comes to need it. You can watch all the videos, learn every trick, and dump every dollar on the best parts, but in the end, all it takes is a little grit in right/wrong spot to make it all for not and force you to tear it down and start over. Only reason I bring it up is because I've been exactly where you're at right now, and it's all too easy to focus on everything else you need to do right for a successful rebuild, and overlook the one part that seems so simple. Good luck with your build!

 

To add to this, you may be surprised what that 4l60e can handle when it comes to holding power from a modest-sized turbo. If something is going to struggle immediately after installing the turbo if it hasn't been upgraded, it'll be your fuel system, so definitely be prepared to budget for it if you haven't. A "good" pump, lines, and injectors can easily add up to cost as much, and even more, as the 4l80e swap and rebuild kit.

 

Vorteciroc and a few others on here taught me everything I know about the 4L80E and what I know isn't much compared to what they know lol.

Here is what I recommend for diving into a 4L80E build based on what I've learned over the years from these guys:

Purchase the transmission bench video for 4L80E. It's worth the $50 and it's very detailed, and Jimmy only makes a few errors during the build. It's better than any free youtube series you can find. The transmission bench videos certainly do not cover several additional mods that are required for performance applications, but they are a good starting point. Next is to pick up an ATSG 4L80E THM Transmission Repair Manual. After that, get yourself familiar with all the parts that go into the transmission. You can use diagrams from places such as wittrans or transmission parts online, etc.

https://www.wittrans.com/New_link_parts.php?type=4L80E

There are various part differences between 91-96 (early style) and 97+ (late style), so be mindful of that whenever looking at a parts diagram.
Read this thread, and then read it again: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...n-circuit.html

Learn which hard parts are typically used in higher hp applications. Visit sites like jakesperformance and see what he includes in his various levels of 4L80E builds.
Key words to look for are "billet main shaft, billet input shaft, billet forward hub, 36 super drum, rollerized, etc.

Watch every single video about a 4L80E on this channel here: https://www.youtube.com/c/LittleVictoryFabCo and this channel here: https://www.youtube.com/@jakeshoe/videos
Next thing to do is become a member of this pateron account: https://www.patreon.com/littlevictoryfabco/posts The videos here are excellent and a must have for any new builder. If you pass on this, you are missing out on some excellent information not covered anywhere else.

For tools, dl this file here and check out page 4. https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ons-guide.html

This file is dated and I don't have the time to update it atm, but it's a good starting point. Consider getting a set of snap ring pliers, the ICON 7 piece set from harbor freight is a good deal along with a harbor freight press to press the bearings in. Don't pound them in, use a press. Also get a flex-hone kit to address some of the finish in place bushings. You'll need it. Some other items not listed in that file, a dial indicator, depth gauge, digital calipers and micrometer is highly recommended as well as a sanding block which you will use on the valve body worm tracks, the case, and the pump halves to ensure they are smooth prior to cleaning them and reassembling. There are also various air guns/tips/hoses of certain sizes needed to properly do a final air check a 4L80E once assembled.

Highly recommend purchasing one of these from truckdoug to make the job easier: https://ls1tech.com/forums/market/1937647

A properly built 4L80E should be vacuum tested before sending it off. Each and every circuit in the pump and valve body should be tested. Invest in a homemade vacuum tester. Read this entire thread here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...alve-body.html

And then read how to test them here: https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...uum-test-guide

Invest in a GOOD transmission pressure tester, like a ATG500K from Matco or OTC Tools 5610. Once you have the transmission in the car, you need to make sure the pressures are all correct and this is the way to do it.

There are things that you must look for, certain wear items on various hard parts that are not covered in most videos. You can build a whole transmission using that 4L80E transmission bench video for example but if you don't know what wear items to look for, you can wind up with a transmission that is on borrowed time, or worse yet, one that won't even work properly even after the rebuild. This is not mean to detour you, but it's the hard truth. Study up on what the common wear items are. Join the 4L80E facebook group and read, read, read. Type "4L80E build" in the advanced search bar function here on ls1tech and read more. Then rinse and repeat and do it on yellowbullet.

There are various modifications for higher hp applications that are performed on these units. The guys who do this for a living know them inside and out and through years of trial and error, and they have determined what works and what doesn't. Some of these modifications have graciously been shared to us. Some have not. These are not covered in most videos, if at all. Some of them have been compiled in the file referenced above that contains the parts on page 4 but certainly not all of them. Once again, that file is dated.

Take into account the additional costs that can be incurred in order to swap a 4L80E into a vehicle. For example, when I put one in my 4th gen Fbody, I spent around $3k in extra parts. It can be done for cheaper, but I wanted it done right. Converter, flexplate, wiring harness, dipstick tube, yoke, driveshaft, cooler, crossmember, lines, it all adds up and it adds up fast. This writeup provides some details on what I encountered during the install, and while your application is different, there are several things in here that are still applicable. Note the disptick calibration and torque converter installation sections. https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...en-f-body.html

In closing, there is A TON of research and by a ton I mean a **** ton that has to go into building these. Certain aftermarket parts cannot be used together which you will learn as you go along, and certain steps may require some hand holding. Nothing wrong with this, everyone has to start somewhere. If you have a local performance builder near you, it's worth it to shadow them on a build or two before jumping into all of this.

I also strongly recommend keeping a file containing of all the actual values that you will be noting as you make various checks throughout the build process. Essentially like what is in the image below that I put together for the last build I did. This way you know exactly what the specs are of your build. Just a recommendation. Consider it a "blue print" of the build. The more meticulous you are in your approach, the higher the likelihood of success! Good luck!

 

@5.7stroker I just have to say that you guys are phenomenal on providing information, speculation, recommendations and all that. Your help will not be wasted, sadly tonight I'm not able to do much, I have CDL Training this oughta be interesting. But when I have time I will definitely go through each link and takes notes and look into everything you have listed. I did read though your post and its awesome that people are helpful on here I've been on different forums and posts here as well and sadly it seems like there's some people with a grudge against people who don't know certain things to begin with. I'm glad you guys have been so welcoming and given me a good write up on it. Sadly here there is a couple Transmission specialty shops, but there's only one that I know of that would do performance applications. Not to be rude to him or others I'd have to do some calling, but he does hobby racing stuff. My info I'm working with here is from my boss who just got back into racing dirt oval. I want to say Super Stock or Street Stock class. Essentially I'm not aware if this other guy does other trans work besides power glides, which is what my boss has in his car and that's where he got it from.