Got to keep the wife happy!!!

 

it's called self preservation. men have been practicing it for years.

 

Not much of an update but I did manage to take the PCM to Tick Performance to get a starter tune put on it with my combination. Nice friendly folk there. Parking lot was full so I am guessing they do good work. Did hear a dyno run in progress while filling out my spec sheet. Awesome! The PCM will be done in a day or so. In the meantime I will be wiring the factory underhood harness to accomodate the new engine combo. I still have the wire from the horn relay that I used to trigger the old alternator. I was going to use this wire to cut the PCM on with but after looking at the schematic it seems to have a resistance wire in its path so I will have to find a suitable replacement. BMF what wire did you use to trigger the PCM on a switched 12v?

 

Nevermind my request BMF. I went out to the garage for a few minutes and thought through my problem and found a solution. The wire that powered the coil originally was also a resistance wire but attached to that at the firewall plug was a 12 gauge solid wire. I clipped off the resisitance wire and will use the other to cut the PCM on. Band taped the harnesses and will install tomorrow. Thanks anyway. Sometimes the answer is right in front of your face.

 

That's ok my buddy Jeremy did my wiring under the dash and I don't know what he tapped into?

 

I'm pretty sure I did this too, based on the diagram you sent me. Should work well.

 

T,

Any updates??

TC

 

It seems I have put the lake in front of the Camaro once again. Something about cold beer, wading in the water and riding on a boat that seems a hell of a lot more fun than sweating my *** of in the garage. I do apologize.

I do have a small update: I bled out the new CPP brake master cylinder with great success but am having trouble bleeding out the clutch system. I have tried several different ways to bleed the clutch out and none of them seem to work. I eventually took the remote bleeder and run it so its the lowest portion of the entire system. I tried to gravity bleed it, vacuum from the remote bleeder, I tried to bleed the line from the master to the slave first, you name it I tried it. I think I may have figured out my problem though. With the remote bleeder open I can depress the clutch pedal and release the clutch pedal and hear a sucking sound and a blowing sound so I feel the master is doing its job but the reservoir for some unknown reason is not letting fluid down to the master. I blew some air backwards through the system to see if there was any restrictions and there were none. Free flowing from end to end but little to no fluid to the master. It must be the reservoir design that is creating some sort of vacuum block that is restricting the flow of fluid. I am guessing its time to find another style of reservoir. Once the clutch is bled out I will definately have quite a few updates on what has been going on. Its sad but GM will not sell you just the reservoir by itself, you have to buy the entire clutch master to get it. I will head back to the junk yard and find another style. Has anyone run into this situation before? I feel as if you have fluid in the upper most area it should try to make its way down to the lowest but for some reason it is not.

 

Tango your car is looking great! You will have one awesome ride when its complete. Looks like it wont be long now.

 

Yeah I hear ya, I love the water to

 

Alright I am about ready to yank this POS apart if I cannot get the hydraulics bled out. I just pulled the master, reservoir, and clutch line free from the car. I locked the master in a vice and bench bled it at the end of the clutch line. It acted normal through and through. I would depress the master and open the plunger on the end of the clutch line and air and fluid poured out. I did this repeatedly until it was pure fluid. As I did this the fluid level dropped as normal in the reservoir. Once I felt this assembly was properly free of air I reinserted the master, reservoir, and clutch line back into the car. I plugged the clutch line into the slave and commensed to bleed out the remaining portion of the hydraulics. I would step on the pedal slowly until bottomed out and hold it, then I broke loose the bleed screw and then tightened the bleed screw. When I let off of the pedal no fluid will drain out of the reservoir to replace the air removed. I thought lets try this again and again and again. No matter how many times I bleed it no fluid will drain into the master. So I decided to try and gravity bleed it. No luck! Its like it is locked and no fluid will drain. I replaced the reservoir today with one off of a 3/4 ton Dodge truck that has a large enough opening that should not have any effect on this problem. Like I said it worked just fine at the bench. Now for the solution, is it the remote bleeder or is it a bad slave or is it either? I am no expert but I have been working on cars for some years and have never run into this situation. Brake fluid last time I checked was heavier than air so gravity ought to allow brake fluid to naturally push the air out. Maybe in this one spot on earth gravity is being defined!!! I hooked a vaccum pump to the end of the remote bleeder to help gravity out a little and no luck. I removed the fitting off of the end of the remote and tried it that way without success. I am running out of options. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any input. No matter how simple your reply might be it would be helpful. Damn I feel like a kid needing daddys help but I am about to blow a gasket. Damn if I want to remove the transmission just to diagnose this problem. help!!!

 

Could it be a throw out bearing, is it new, old,??? I had to reverse bleed a S10 it was a PITA,

 

I got it! You are not going to believe this ****. Me and my son were giving it one more go. This time I tought hhhmm the bleeder is above the clutch line on the slave what if the bleeder end needs to be above the clutch line and below the reservoir while purging the air. Well that didnt work worth a ****. It came down to this, the pedal wasnt coming far enough back to allow new fluid from the reservoir into the master after the stroke. Once I removed the rubber bumper from the pedal assembly and stroked it a few times it bled out properly without a hang up. What a simple fix! I was just about to the point of yanking the tranny and starting fresh. 2 days to figure that out how dissappointing! Thanks Steve for your input I really do appreciate it.

 

I guess the next thing I will do is turn my clutch master into an adjustable unit. I should have done this from the word go but I am sometimes hard headed. Live and learn!!!

 

Well at least u figured it out!!

 

Great. Your clutch retrofit will be a lot of help to a lot of folks, including maybe myself one day. Now let's here it run!

 

I know its been a while since my last post on any progress. Here we go. I only have a few posts here but more to come. This is a few shots of the fuel lines ran. I used the OEM style fuel line. This stuff is tough but it does not like to make sharp bends. Just for fun I took a steel line and a OEM style and put the same amount of pressure on both and drug them on the concrete for some time and I was amazed at the result. The steel line believe it or not showed less damage than the steel line. The first pic is the fuel pressure regulator mounted and the lines ran. to the tank.

[IMG][/IMG]

 

The fuel line run down the length of the car. I used rubber line to further prevent any abrasion. The entire fuel line has 10mm heat shrink on it. I used my heat gun to shrink it. This is also an added insurance to prevent premature wear.

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This is the end connected to the fuel rail. You can see where the heat shrink stops. I had to stop here to be able to use the tool that presses the connector to the fuel line. Fairly easy tool to use. I suggest if you do use this type of fuel line that you practice a few times with the tool before you commit to a desired length. I bought 25 feet of fuel line and had plenty. Before I cut any lengths I pressed on a connector and found its easier to start the connector by hand before you lock it in the tool. You can take a heat gun to soften the fuel line right before you press in the connector but I chose to do it without the heat.

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Enough about fuel lines. I bought 2 Autometer sensor adapters, both the same. It says on the package its for coolant temperature and oil pressure gauges. Well it did fit the head for the coolant temp. sensor but it did need to be drilled out so the sensor would thread into the 1/8"NPT. I used a 5/16" drill to open the hole some. It fit like a glove. I did use caution not to over tighten the adapter in the head. I installed the sensor in it before I screwed it into the head. This helped prevent the adapter from collapsing while it was tightened. The package said to tighten just enough to crush the copper washer. Hopefully there wont be any leaks once hot. So far with the coolant system full and cold there isnt any leaks.

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The adapter did not fit the oil pressure port on the back side of the engine. As you can see it is too small to ever screw into the existing port. I wonder if there is another port to use that it would in fact fit. I did what I do best, I made due with what I had at my dispense. I used the old oil pressure switch and modified it.


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I cut the old sensor at the crimp to remove the electrical parts. Then I cleaned up the edges a little. Then I drilled it and threaded it with a 1/8"NPT cut tap. Voila!!! Not pretty but its functional.

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Here it is installed. I used a 4" length of brass 1/8"NPT nipple and a 90 degree fitting. I used a faucet wrench so I could tighten the two into the adapter without removing the intake manifold.

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