Tri5Wagon

This is obviously a great forum and I have enjoyed reading through the various topics. I am thinking about putting a 2000 Trans-Am WS6 LS-1 & 4L60E into my 55 Belair Wagon. Does anyone know of the typical problems/pitfalls or have suggestions installing this setup in an older car like mine??? This is a stock engine and trans, anyone know of any problems/issues associated with the 2000 TA WS6 engine & trans?? I will have all the important pieces such as, water pump, alternator, starter, ac, pwr steering pump, computer w/pcm, throttle body, MAF, EGR, exhaust manifolds and harness.

Any assistance/suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks…

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

If it were me I'd be thinking about a used truck 6.0,
a GMPP 4BBL intake and the stuff to convert to HEI.
That gives you some pretty nice heads, a forgiving
compression ratio and no-hassle old school tuning.
The 4L60E you could control with a TCI box (I think
there are other options too) but my money would go
to a really well built 200-4R (dual bolt pattern) for
the simplicity (and more ruggeness I think, and if you
already have a TH350 then the driveshaft would work).

2000 has EGR and smaller injectors. 2001 is simpler
and better fueled. But if you go for the carb who
cares?

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

I am gathering all the pieces to put a 2000 LS1 from a Firebird into my '53 Studebaker. I plan to make use of all the modern EFi and ignition, I see no reason to take a very efficient and powerful motor and convert it back to 50 year old technology. There are numerous vendors with help available. S&P has most of the bracketry you need and there are others too, you can also make your own based on template located here in the FAQ. Thre are quite a few options for having a harness and ECU redone to fit your needs, I plan to go with Speartech for mine. I believe my two greatest chalenges will be the fuel delivery system and exhaust. I have seen several 55s with LSx motors and they came out sweet! Most of the pioneering work on these swaps has been done for us by now, lots of info out there.

Good luck on your project and keep us posted

Pat

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

hmmmm.

on another local board, one of the members asked me for my phone number to give to a guy swapping a LS1 in a 55 chevy.. somewhere around Charleston, SC.... are you the same guy? lol

Oscar Will

GM did a bunch of engineering when they put together the "plug & play" harness and computer for these swaps.....most of it done on a 1955 Chevy "mule" which is in their GM Performance catalog. I've seen several LS-1 Tri-five Chevs, all very nice and VERY drivable.

55chevy

iTrader: (6)

Welcome Tri5, I am also doing a '55 conversion but I have a 6 speed tranny. I agree with Stu Cool, stay with the EFI. S&P's home page is http://www.hotrodlane.cc/ . They have a project on their projects page listed as "***** Wagners 56 Chevy LS-1 4L60E" which is a good reference. Beware, you will need deep pockets to get all of your parts from them. I am using their motor mount kit and adapter plates. I also sent my oil pan to them and got it notched to clear my steering linkage. I have not purchased headers as I am trying to keep my cost down. The stock '01 Fbody manifolds will clear my manual steering box but I am adding a '605 power steering and I'm not sure if it is going to be an issue. Should know next week.

Good luck!

55chevy

iTrader: (6)

Tri5, I was just looking at Scooter's post https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/311659-dimensional-differences-between-lsx-oil-pans.html . That truck oil pan may be a option if you are keeping your stock steering linkage. I don't know if anyone has tried it in a '55. I may be able to measure for it next week when I get my motor in, if you are interested.

Tri5Nerd

iTrader: (3)

I'm in the process of doing a 2001 LS1 with a 4l60e in a 55 Task Force truck and here what I will do:

Try to mod my harness myself using information found on the board, check Frizzle Fry's post in which he post the info on modding the harness:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/356063-early-truck-eng-swap.html

I'm also going to try to make my motor mount plates from scrap 1/4" steel using info found on the site also.
BTW: Can you use a jigsaw with metal cutting blades to do this?

I don't know much about the headers yet because I have a 70s camaro front clip grafted and heard that I;ll not have clearance if I use my Mac headers. Any truth to that?

For the fuel system delivery I'm going to try to use the 2001 gas tank and sending unit, how will I put this tank in the frame? That's going to be the tricky part.

Spending all my $$$ now getting the body and frame ready for paint! LOL

79ls1

iTrader: (3)

I'm with you guys on the budget train. I spliced my harness by my self and it wasn’t to bad, I also made my motor mounts and the cross member for the t56 for about fifty dollars worth of metal and labor to get them welded. Most of the conversion to the fuel system was easy. I got a sump brazed on my stock tank and used a A1000 pump, fast fuel rails, and ran -10 to the motor and -6 for the return. Depending on your clearance pace setter makes some long tubes that fit close to the motor with no EGR tubes. I have about 3,000.00 invested and only need the cpu and several fittings for the fuel system, but I think that it was all worth it

Tri5Wagon

Thanks for all the great feedback and links, Everyone!!! You’re all helping this process a great deal. I’m staying with the EFI. I want the performance with the fuel economy. Please keep the comments coming!!! We will definitely post updates and pictures soon when the engine swap starts and throughout the transition..

Mr.Dude1 – I’m not the same guy, but these are popular conversions… lol
Chevy55 – I’m not keeping the orig steering box but the 605 doesn’t look like a good option either. Rack & pinion kits look interesting. Danchuk has what they call a 670 box that has possibilities. It offers different ratios and is supposed to be much better than the 605. The 670 just hit the market; I hope to see some objective testing soon.

Oscar Will

Tri5Nerd I think you might want to use abrasive cutoff wheels or a chop saw with an abrasive wheel. I use various saws with these wheels to cut anything larger than 3/16". I use a plasma cutter for the small stuff. Jig saws are just too slow.

warpwr

I have a '56 2 door post. I changed the front suspension and steering to Jim Meyer Racing stuff. Works absolutely great. Rack and pinion, disc brakes, etc. I think it would clear the pan as well. Here's the link to JMR web site and I'll try to post a picture.

http://www.jimmeyerracing.com/

Good luck with the LS1 in there. I wouldn't mind having one in mine too.

55chevy

iTrader: (6)

I looked at the meyer IFS and I reallllllllly like it. "Badchev" is also putting one in and is installing a LS1. That was back in April and I don't know how much progress he has made. I just spent all my money and then some on a paint job. I'll try to post some pictures soon.

Tri5Nerd

iTrader: (3)

Oscar:
How about using a grinder that's rated 13000 RPM with some cutoff wheels? I think I can get them fairly cheap at HarborFrieght to make the plates.

One more question, What size steel would you use for Boxing the frame?

This site is full of great info and I get the motivation to do most of the work myself from the vast knowledge on this site.

Oscar Will

Two of the tools I use are from Harbor Freight, just make sure you don't exceed the RPM limit printed on the abrasive discs. I use a cheap air powered 3" cutoff saw and a 4" electric grinder with a cutoff wheel along with a Milwaukee 14" chop saw, all three work well. I do all my boxing with 1/8" stuff but some guys I know use 3/32" regularly. I'm a do-it-myself kinda guy too, I do it all.....except for interior stuff, I leave that to my wife. I just can't sew worth a hill-o-beans.