The G-Body Swap Thread
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
Looks good. I do have a question about the shifter though. Why did you use an f-body shifter? I only ask because I have the factory shifter still and had to weld it back together last year because I broke it and couldn`t find a replacement g-body shifter. I didn`t realize that an f-body shifter was that close.
Looks good. I do have a question about the shifter though. Why did you use an f-body shifter? I only ask because I have the factory shifter still and had to weld it back together last year because I broke it and couldn`t find a replacement g-body shifter. I didn`t realize that an f-body shifter was that close.
- my vision for the install was a near-factory hardware installation
- I didn't want to use an aftermarket shifter.
- my stock g-body shifter was for TH350, so the detent plates weren't correct anyways.
- I planned to use a stock F-body trans cable. The F-body shifter has a bracket for securing the top end of the cable.
- to keep the F-body neutral safety switch/wiring.
I was able to fit the F-body shifter under the console by removing excess material from the plate (basically kept the trans cable bracket and shifter-to-plate mounting points). I welded brackets to the F-body shifter plate to pick-up the bosses on the Monte's trans tunnel. I welded a small flat plate on the back of the shifter plate to pick-up the rear attachment point. The icing on the cake was the shifter handles being interchangeable.
Engine Bay just about finished..it's been crappy weather so work has been slow.
Filter is from the LS2 GTO Varaam Kit, it uses the 85mm Z06 MAF. Radiator Support is a piece of 1/8" Aircraft Aluminum bent in the middle with a Sheet Metal Break.
Filter is from the LS2 GTO Varaam Kit, it uses the 85mm Z06 MAF. Radiator Support is a piece of 1/8" Aircraft Aluminum bent in the middle with a Sheet Metal Break.
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Hello guys
I just read all 22 pages of this read
Awesome thread filled with tons of useful info, pics & links. I have an '82 Cutlass & was contemplating a 400sbc build but after reading this thread I've Finally decided to go with a 6.0 4L80 swap for FI & overdrive. Sure there are some issues to deal with but the time & $$ spent will be worth it to get the car updated with some modern technology.
Lots of smart people on here. Thanks to all who have contibuted to this wealth of information !!! The swap seems far less scary now.
I just read all 22 pages of this read
Awesome thread filled with tons of useful info, pics & links. I have an '82 Cutlass & was contemplating a 400sbc build but after reading this thread I've Finally decided to go with a 6.0 4L80 swap for FI & overdrive. Sure there are some issues to deal with but the time & $$ spent will be worth it to get the car updated with some modern technology.Lots of smart people on here. Thanks to all who have contibuted to this wealth of information !!! The swap seems far less scary now.
This may be a stupid question, but I assume the BRP/Hedman swap headers are just mild steel? Has anyone contacted Hedman directly to inquire on the possibility of having them made to order in Stainless? I see no reason it could not be done, unless the cost is extremely prohibitive.
Been waiting to complete the project before I contributed to this thread- which has, and this site, been a wealth of knowledge for pulling off the swap. Here we go. . .
Car: '84 Monte SS
Drivetrain: 5.7L LS1 and 4L60E from '01 TA w/ 52k miles. Bought from Cleveland Pick-a-part
Goal was a close-to OEM installation without cutting the car. I wanted to retain a totally stock interior appearance, too.
Radiator: Stock g-body w/ extra nipple for steam hose. G-body Cutlass top radiator retaining bracket. F-body LS1 fans w/ custom brackets for attaching to factory retaining clips. Buick Grand National A/C condenser- passenger side connection and same brackets as MCSS.
Intake: DIY parts from Silicone intakes.com. Stock MAF.
Engine swap parts: Spohn motor mounts, Kwik A/C bracket, BRP Mid-length headers, RetroLSX oil pan, NAPA G-body temp sending unit machined to fit in rear of passenger cylinder head (Vato Zone sending units deteriorated during machining process, Current performance stand-alone module for engine (chassis uses OEM fuse block). 2.5" 304 stainless exhaust w/ H-pipe and Dynomax VT mufflers. Mufflers at idle and normal RPM have factory F-body sound but roar when you spin up the engine.
Trans swap parts: Shiftworks tailhousing, built-to-spec trans cable (couldn't find adequate OEM part), custom trans cable mounting tab, Iceman x-member (not quite bolt-in application), F-body shifter modified to mount in factory G-body location and use stock MCSS shift handle. No mods were necessary to fit MCSS handle to F-body shifter. Shortened OEM MCSS driveshaft- will eventually replace with new driveshaft.
Electrical: Wait4Me performance flashed the ECM and converted the harness. I intended to do the electrical work myself until a local shop opened, Downriver Motorsports Wiring in Romulus, MI. The rates were exceptionally fair and quality of work far exceeded my expectations and abilities. The ECM is enclosed in a custom housing on the passenger toe-board beneath the carpet. The passenger loses about 2-2.5" of legroom.
I have a 34" inseam and could sit comfortably. Also had car dyno tuned. In hindsight, I paid twice for the harness and ECM flash, but it was a relatively inexpensive lesson to learn.
Fuel delivery: Buick Grand National gas tank/fuel pump/sending unit/, 'vette filter/regulator, currently have -6AN line from tank to engine but have plastic line to replace it when the weather breaks.
Fittment: RetroLSX pan is the cat's ***. Front cross-member is ~5" off the ground and the pan is tucked from harms way. ~1/8" clearance between stock steering box and alternator pulley. Pass rear spark plug is touching A/C box. I plan to clearance the box when the weather breaks. The engine-to-AC clearance is why the harness is draped over the rocker covers. BRP headers would have melted the OEM steering shaft. Jeep XJ steering shaft was too bulky, so I got it right with Borgeson hardware. Clearance is still a scant 1/8-1/4". BRP header flanges negated use of stock trans cable mounting tab.
Lessons learned: I'd not buy a harness or tune twice, and I'd opt for making my own trans x-member or just buying a G-force unit. I bought the Iceman used but never installed and didn't receive paperwork with it to know if I had the correct application or not. Unmodified fitment was like a saddle on a cow, but it worked out fine. I'm very satisfied with the end result. In hindsight I shouldn't have pussed out and cut the car. Had I gone that route it would have a T56.
Other stats: SC&C Stage 2, SPC tubular lowers and springs (all corners), SC&C frame brace, Vari-Shocks on all corners, Currie upper and lower rear arms, Baer Track 13" kit on OEM spindle, Baer Track 12" kit on rear, 18" Rushforth Fuel on Khumo Ventus tires.
Open issues: headliner repair, driveshaft replacement, purchase DIY A/C lines & charge system, wait for snow to melt and enjoy.
Car: '84 Monte SS
Drivetrain: 5.7L LS1 and 4L60E from '01 TA w/ 52k miles. Bought from Cleveland Pick-a-part
Goal was a close-to OEM installation without cutting the car. I wanted to retain a totally stock interior appearance, too.
Radiator: Stock g-body w/ extra nipple for steam hose. G-body Cutlass top radiator retaining bracket. F-body LS1 fans w/ custom brackets for attaching to factory retaining clips. Buick Grand National A/C condenser- passenger side connection and same brackets as MCSS.
Intake: DIY parts from Silicone intakes.com. Stock MAF.
Engine swap parts: Spohn motor mounts, Kwik A/C bracket, BRP Mid-length headers, RetroLSX oil pan, NAPA G-body temp sending unit machined to fit in rear of passenger cylinder head (Vato Zone sending units deteriorated during machining process, Current performance stand-alone module for engine (chassis uses OEM fuse block). 2.5" 304 stainless exhaust w/ H-pipe and Dynomax VT mufflers. Mufflers at idle and normal RPM have factory F-body sound but roar when you spin up the engine.
Trans swap parts: Shiftworks tailhousing, built-to-spec trans cable (couldn't find adequate OEM part), custom trans cable mounting tab, Iceman x-member (not quite bolt-in application), F-body shifter modified to mount in factory G-body location and use stock MCSS shift handle. No mods were necessary to fit MCSS handle to F-body shifter. Shortened OEM MCSS driveshaft- will eventually replace with new driveshaft.
Electrical: Wait4Me performance flashed the ECM and converted the harness. I intended to do the electrical work myself until a local shop opened, Downriver Motorsports Wiring in Romulus, MI. The rates were exceptionally fair and quality of work far exceeded my expectations and abilities. The ECM is enclosed in a custom housing on the passenger toe-board beneath the carpet. The passenger loses about 2-2.5" of legroom.
I have a 34" inseam and could sit comfortably. Also had car dyno tuned. In hindsight, I paid twice for the harness and ECM flash, but it was a relatively inexpensive lesson to learn.
Fuel delivery: Buick Grand National gas tank/fuel pump/sending unit/, 'vette filter/regulator, currently have -6AN line from tank to engine but have plastic line to replace it when the weather breaks.
Fittment: RetroLSX pan is the cat's ***. Front cross-member is ~5" off the ground and the pan is tucked from harms way. ~1/8" clearance between stock steering box and alternator pulley. Pass rear spark plug is touching A/C box. I plan to clearance the box when the weather breaks. The engine-to-AC clearance is why the harness is draped over the rocker covers. BRP headers would have melted the OEM steering shaft. Jeep XJ steering shaft was too bulky, so I got it right with Borgeson hardware. Clearance is still a scant 1/8-1/4". BRP header flanges negated use of stock trans cable mounting tab.
Lessons learned: I'd not buy a harness or tune twice, and I'd opt for making my own trans x-member or just buying a G-force unit. I bought the Iceman used but never installed and didn't receive paperwork with it to know if I had the correct application or not. Unmodified fitment was like a saddle on a cow, but it worked out fine. I'm very satisfied with the end result. In hindsight I shouldn't have pussed out and cut the car. Had I gone that route it would have a T56.
Other stats: SC&C Stage 2, SPC tubular lowers and springs (all corners), SC&C frame brace, Vari-Shocks on all corners, Currie upper and lower rear arms, Baer Track 13" kit on OEM spindle, Baer Track 12" kit on rear, 18" Rushforth Fuel on Khumo Ventus tires.
Open issues: headliner repair, driveshaft replacement, purchase DIY A/C lines & charge system, wait for snow to melt and enjoy.
Hello guys
I just read all 22 pages of this read Awesome thread filled with tons of useful info, pics & links. I have an '82 Cutlass & was contemplating a 400sbc build but after reading this thread I've Finally decided to go with a 6.0 4L80 swap for FI & overdrive. Sure there are some issues to deal with but the time & $$ spent will be worth it to get the car updated with some modern technology.
Lots of smart people on here. Thanks to all who have contibuted to this wealth of information !!! The swap seems far less scary now.
I just read all 22 pages of this read
Awesome thread filled with tons of useful info, pics & links. I have an '82 Cutlass & was contemplating a 400sbc build but after reading this thread I've Finally decided to go with a 6.0 4L80 swap for FI & overdrive. Sure there are some issues to deal with but the time & $$ spent will be worth it to get the car updated with some modern technology.Lots of smart people on here. Thanks to all who have contibuted to this wealth of information !!! The swap seems far less scary now.
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Installing a Cam only LS2 with east coast Novi 2000 supercharger system in my 87 Buick Turbo T (T-type)
The motor is from a 07 C6 Vette,
Here is a list of parts i have to complete the conversion
Motor LS2
Tranny 4L65E
BRP motor/tranny mount kit
BRP 1 7/8 long tube headers
BRP H2 oil pan kit
Custom 2 core Radiator, using a stock 01 camaro duel fan shroud
BIG RJC intercooler
Dakota digital dash cluster
Custom wire harness with E67 ecm and T-42 tcm
Custom LSX duel PCV catch can system w check valve
Lonnies double pumper intank fuel pump
Nasty performance C5 filter/regulator returless fuel system
Alky Control methanol injection system
PTC 10.5" 2,800 TQ converter
motron #60 pound injectors
fuel rail shim kit
i need a 3" duel exhaust system with X pipe made and a 3.5-4" driveshaft
this is all i can remember right now
Ill keep you guys posted as i do the conversion
The motor is from a 07 C6 Vette,
Here is a list of parts i have to complete the conversion
Motor LS2
Tranny 4L65E
BRP motor/tranny mount kit
BRP 1 7/8 long tube headers
BRP H2 oil pan kit
Custom 2 core Radiator, using a stock 01 camaro duel fan shroud
BIG RJC intercooler
Dakota digital dash cluster
Custom wire harness with E67 ecm and T-42 tcm
Custom LSX duel PCV catch can system w check valve
Lonnies double pumper intank fuel pump
Nasty performance C5 filter/regulator returless fuel system
Alky Control methanol injection system
PTC 10.5" 2,800 TQ converter
motron #60 pound injectors
fuel rail shim kit
i need a 3" duel exhaust system with X pipe made and a 3.5-4" driveshaft
this is all i can remember right now
Ill keep you guys posted as i do the conversion
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
Very informative thread. I've been carefully reading on this site for 4 or 5 months. I'm doing a carbed LQ9 into an '87 Regal. Extreme budget build, probably going to go with F body Pacesetter longtubes and Trans Dapt adjustable mounts.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 580
Likes: 0
From: North Central Ohio
I just went through all the pages and I had a few n00b questions. First off, on all forums I am on I occasionally see the ''dbw''. What is that? Also, if I was looking to do a stock 5.3/6.0 into a 85 monte carlo ss with a 4l60e, would the factory front accessories work or would I need to get fbody ones? And do all the LT's offered hang below the frames on the gbodies? I for one like the lowered look of cars/trucks so I'd like to lower the monte a bit but if the headers hang a bit low, that would be a little concerning to me.
This as of right now is just a pipe dream but I guess its a good thing for right now so I can read and learn as much before I'd dive into it.
This as of right now is just a pipe dream but I guess its a good thing for right now so I can read and learn as much before I'd dive into it.
DBW- Drive By Wire Throttle Body.
I like how the F-body Accessories are compact.
I have the BRP (Hedman) 1 7/8"/3" Headers, they hang beloy, but I have a ton of ground clearance, and I'm lowered a little bit.
Here is a pic..
I like how the F-body Accessories are compact.
I have the BRP (Hedman) 1 7/8"/3" Headers, they hang beloy, but I have a ton of ground clearance, and I'm lowered a little bit.
Here is a pic..
Last edited by the_merv; Feb 24, 2011 at 01:31 AM.
[/IMG] 
[/IMG] they do not look too bad. How was fitment? Also, from what i read, best motor mounts to use is the guys on here, cant remember his account name, but has the ls7 in his monte with these headers? Our monte has the stock hood but i want to put on a steel 2 inch cowl, so if the truck intake and accessories work with that, that will be nice at least until I get a camaro intake on it.