The G-Body Swap Thread
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Joined: Nov 2010
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81 el camino i'm running dbw but i am using the donor tac pedal harness and pcm. i read enough threads prior to my swap to make sure i got all. do some diggin there are tons of what fits with what threads. my hood closes fine with truck intake dbw and alternator. the turbo.... thats a different story.
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 7
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yeah if i can get at it (buried in mother in laws garage). you have to cut and weld a lot. it took me about ten tries to get it the way i wanted it. it also had the pedal height motor on it so it was f-in huge.
I'm working on preliminary plans for our 88 SS. We're looking at running a GMPP LS376/515 with corvette accessories (if the corvette ac compressor will work, other wise going to a top mount system) mated to an Art Carr 200-4R, and I'm having trouble figuring out what motor mounts should be used to accomplish these goals:
The air conditioning needs to be retained. I've been looking at different headers trying to find what will clear the heater box, but I haven't seen a definitive set up to make this work.
We will most likely be using a GForce notched crossmember to allow for dual exhaust. Worst case scenario, we can just use the manifolds that come on the motor as long as air can be kept. Anyone with success in doing this, please share your setup.
Is anyone running a carbed motor with a stock hood? I'm guessing it's not possible based on the height of the single plane intake.
The air conditioning needs to be retained. I've been looking at different headers trying to find what will clear the heater box, but I haven't seen a definitive set up to make this work.
We will most likely be using a GForce notched crossmember to allow for dual exhaust. Worst case scenario, we can just use the manifolds that come on the motor as long as air can be kept. Anyone with success in doing this, please share your setup.
Is anyone running a carbed motor with a stock hood? I'm guessing it's not possible based on the height of the single plane intake.
I'm working on preliminary plans for our 88 SS. We're looking at running a GMPP LS376/515 with corvette accessories (if the corvette ac compressor will work, other wise going to a top mount system) mated to an Art Carr 200-4R, and I'm having trouble figuring out what motor mounts should be used to accomplish these goals:
The air conditioning needs to be retained. I've been looking at different headers trying to find what will clear the heater box, but I haven't seen a definitive set up to make this work.
We will most likely be using a GForce notched crossmember to allow for dual exhaust. Worst case scenario, we can just use the manifolds that come on the motor as long as air can be kept. Anyone with success in doing this, please share your setup.
Is anyone running a carbed motor with a stock hood? I'm guessing it's not possible based on the height of the single plane intake.
The air conditioning needs to be retained. I've been looking at different headers trying to find what will clear the heater box, but I haven't seen a definitive set up to make this work.
We will most likely be using a GForce notched crossmember to allow for dual exhaust. Worst case scenario, we can just use the manifolds that come on the motor as long as air can be kept. Anyone with success in doing this, please share your setup.
Is anyone running a carbed motor with a stock hood? I'm guessing it's not possible based on the height of the single plane intake.
Pictures or it isn't happening! Lol pics please
Custom Headers Just wanted to post the results of the custom stainless headers I had made for my 86 Monte SS.
I couldnt Use the BRP style because of column shift linkage issues and also I wanted to make sure I had plenty of room around other areas since I used John Bs mounts.
Below is a picture of the mock-up I derived from pictures I used from others that posted on the board and below that, the end result in 16GA 304 stainless, 1 7/8 primary.
The main items I wanted to and have achieved are:
1. Clear all obstructions (Z-bar, shift linkage, frame, control arms, Spark plug wires etc.)
2. Be able to slip them in without removing items or jacking up the engine.
3. Have bolt hole flanges for easy removal
4. Have O2 bung provisions for ECU and Wideband.
5. Make them stainless
[
I couldnt Use the BRP style because of column shift linkage issues and also I wanted to make sure I had plenty of room around other areas since I used John Bs mounts.
Below is a picture of the mock-up I derived from pictures I used from others that posted on the board and below that, the end result in 16GA 304 stainless, 1 7/8 primary.
The main items I wanted to and have achieved are:
1. Clear all obstructions (Z-bar, shift linkage, frame, control arms, Spark plug wires etc.)
2. Be able to slip them in without removing items or jacking up the engine.
3. Have bolt hole flanges for easy removal
4. Have O2 bung provisions for ECU and Wideband.
5. Make them stainless
[
Last edited by 2Aspire; Dec 30, 2010 at 04:28 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
2Aspire: I`m not sure I want to know how much time or $ you have in those. But I sure want a set.
.
How low do they hang? looks like they would hang below the k-member.
.How low do they hang? looks like they would hang below the k-member.
The driver side does hang below the crossmember but that was necessary to get around the linkage without issues.
I dont intend to make it a low rider and the CTS-V pan was already below the crossmember so not really a big deal..
I dont intend to make it a low rider and the CTS-V pan was already below the crossmember so not really a big deal..
While the design is similiar in appearance, every inch was done by eyeball directly on my vehicle and I assure you it is very different to not only fulfill my desire to have a set of stainless headers but ones that fit exactly to my specifications and clear all the items I mentioned before.
I was also looking at Johns effort (pic below) as a possible starting point but it was wayyyy too much of a geometry lesson for my taste as it looks to me that one of his goals was to have equal lengths. Also I opted not to use his effort as a starting point as it probably would have been a more difficult task to clear the Z-bar in my column shift..
Those headers you built are absolutely beautiful. What's the second bung on the d/s header for? A/F gauge?
I'm going with the BRP mounts and a set of F-body Pacesetters. I bought the cheap painted ones so I can beat them up cut and weld without having to worry about ruining a nice set of headers. I'll coat them later on. Also swapping my A/C box for a heater only box but I first have to fix the hole that UPS decided to create.
I think I asked this question in here before, but is everyone that's using an in-tank pump, using a stock un-modified fuel tank from an EFI G-body? I've heard people having problems with aftermarket replacement tanks not venting properly. I'd hate to have to cut into my tank if I can buy a cheaper factory tank from a junkyard.
I'm going with the BRP mounts and a set of F-body Pacesetters. I bought the cheap painted ones so I can beat them up cut and weld without having to worry about ruining a nice set of headers. I'll coat them later on. Also swapping my A/C box for a heater only box but I first have to fix the hole that UPS decided to create.
I think I asked this question in here before, but is everyone that's using an in-tank pump, using a stock un-modified fuel tank from an EFI G-body? I've heard people having problems with aftermarket replacement tanks not venting properly. I'd hate to have to cut into my tank if I can buy a cheaper factory tank from a junkyard.
Thanks.. I did do the PVC mock up but had a shop do the finished work based on my PVC model.. The second bung if for a wideband.. So yes A/F gauge..
I think I asked this question in here before, but is everyone that's using an in-tank pump, using a stock un-modified fuel tank from an EFI G-body? I've heard people having problems with aftermarket replacement tanks not venting properly. I'd hate to have to cut into my tank if I can buy a cheaper factory tank from a junkyard.
Used a walbro in place of the stock FI pump
Ah ok. I've asked around other forums and could really never get a clear answer. I guess I'll have to try the tank myself and if it doesn't want to vent and the gas pump keeps shutting off, I'll have my answer
Sorry I really didnt give you a straight answer.. This thread pretty much sums up why I didnt use an aftermarket.. Hope this helps..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...tank-fast.html
Yeah that's the exact problem. Well I guess I have to modify the tank before I paint it. No big deal the thing I'm worried about is metal shavings getting in the tank where I can't get them out. It looks like a 90° in the tank, with a rubber hose, going to another 90° elbow in the filler neck is the fix.
Appreciate the link though I never even thought about searching here for it.
Appreciate the link though I never even thought about searching here for it.
YES! I think I found the thread G-body was talking about on here.
http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showp...1&postcount=19
http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showp...1&postcount=19
Those headers look freaking sweet. I'll keep them in mind if I find/do another LS monte. I cut up the pacesetter f-body headers for the SS monte I'm doing now. Turned out pretty nice, but a big fail in comparisson to yours.