The G-Body Swap Thread
That sucks that you were told it was a 6.0.... I would at least demand some money back.
As far as the rear you are probably better off selling the van rear end, and just picking up a GN rear end and making it a bolt in.
The driveshaft you could shorten and balance it but it will most likely need a different style rear portion of it to attach to the rear.
I ended up just keeping the slip yolk out of the tranny side and having a custom shaft made for $225 shipped - 3.5" Steel good to about 1000hp from a driveshaft place on ebay.
Are you planning on a turbo set up? then the 4.8 is usable, if your going N/A I would def start with a 6.0 if possible.
As far as the rear you are probably better off selling the van rear end, and just picking up a GN rear end and making it a bolt in.
The driveshaft you could shorten and balance it but it will most likely need a different style rear portion of it to attach to the rear.
I ended up just keeping the slip yolk out of the tranny side and having a custom shaft made for $225 shipped - 3.5" Steel good to about 1000hp from a driveshaft place on ebay.
Are you planning on a turbo set up? then the 4.8 is usable, if your going N/A I would def start with a 6.0 if possible.
That sucks that you were told it was a 6.0.... I would at least demand some money back.
As far as the rear you are probably better off selling the van rear end, and just picking up a GN rear end and making it a bolt in.
The driveshaft you could shorten and balance it but it will most likely need a different style rear portion of it to attach to the rear.
I ended up just keeping the slip yolk out of the tranny side and having a custom shaft made for $225 shipped - 3.5" Steel good to about 1000hp from a driveshaft place on ebay.
Are you planning on a turbo set up? then the 4.8 is usable, if your going N/A I would def start with a 6.0 if possible.
As far as the rear you are probably better off selling the van rear end, and just picking up a GN rear end and making it a bolt in.
The driveshaft you could shorten and balance it but it will most likely need a different style rear portion of it to attach to the rear.
I ended up just keeping the slip yolk out of the tranny side and having a custom shaft made for $225 shipped - 3.5" Steel good to about 1000hp from a driveshaft place on ebay.
Are you planning on a turbo set up? then the 4.8 is usable, if your going N/A I would def start with a 6.0 if possible.
The van has been parted, only body parts left are the doors the subframe, and drivetrain and thats it. Now I dont know what to do. Not sure if that money is worth the 4.8/4l60 or not. It would be N/A no turbo.
heres the pic of the door ...
Just wierd the door says its a 2500 series, and I thought the 4.8s/5.3s came on the 1500s?
so before I pretty much say nope to this deal b/c I read all the time that 4.8s arent worth the money, since I'm not turbo'ing my motor, is there any possible way that this atleast is a 5.3? I know the vin says on the door its a v-4.8 but I thought I read that 4.8s came only in 1500 series trucks? And the doors say 2500...That and where exactly on the block is the stamping to know what the block says so I can get a definate answer when i call the guy to look?
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
The bad news is that the 4.8L and 5.3L use the same block. So all the 6.0L blocks have 6.0L cast in, but the 4.8`s and 5.3`s both have 4.8L/5.3L cast in. The only way to tell between them is pull the pan and check the crankshaft casting # or the 4.8 has flat top pistons and the 5.3 is dished which you might be able to see/feel the difference through the sparkplug hole.
Is there a way to tell if its a 4l80? They wouldn't have put a 80 on a 4.8 would they have? And obviously now its not a 6.0, what's the worth of the package now and is it worth it?
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
And on a side note, I got a call from the guy, told him its a 4.8 and he said he would like to get 1000 for everything, motor/trans, rear, subframe for scrap and driveshaft. Im going to offer 800 for all or 1000 for all above plus the three doors he has and scrap them as well.
This is my plan, option one is keep the 4.8 and do a head/cam/intake swap on it or option two is to use the 4.8 as a mock up motor to get everything where it needs to be while using it as sale bait and see if someone would buy it.
If I go with option two, only thing Id keep from the deal would be the transmission, but would hope to get 1000 for the rear/driveshaft/4.8 complete to than use towards a lq4.
Thoughts?
Lastly, to get that 4.8 to 400 crank hp n/a, what would you say i'd need (cam size) and heads?
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Redding, CA
I did the lq4 swap in my 80 elco, and i love it, so much power for the stock tune, and it was relatively easy swap i would do it all over again if i could lol, now its just finding a tuner near redding to tune the beast
I have a friend with an 85' SS that's building a turbo 6.0 with a 6l80e. I'll have to get him to post on here
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
Thanks! That would be lovely! Been looking around a lot and the only info out there seems to be people explaining it's a large trans and you need to molest the trans tunnel. I'd like to see it in practice.